Bhutan’s Snowman Trek Preview: Part 2 – Laya To Chozo To Upper Sephu

Previous Post: Bhutan’s Snowman Trek Preview: Part 1 – Paro To Shana To Laya

The previous post described the trek from Shana to Laya over a 10-day period; this route is sometimes packaged as the Jomolhari Trek and has yet other names.  From Laya, trekkers descend to Gasa and a vehicle ride back to Thimphu.

Now we were off on the second half of our Snowman Trek.  The route from Laya to Upper Sephu Via Chozo or Thanza also has a number of names,  the Lunana Snowman Trek being the most common.  It includes seven high passes and campsites that are mostly at or above 4000 meters.

Thanks to almost daily rain and low cloud cover, the expected views of Himalayan peaks during the first half of our trek were scarce.  After a rather cool and rainy rest day spent in Laya, we hoped for better weather and clearer skies as we set off from Laya for Lunana.

Laya To Upper Sephu high passes and campsites graph

Thanks to our ten days on the trail,  the concern about acclimatizing properly was no longer an issue.  Unfortunately, the combination of dry air and increased breathing rate can cause problems;  one of our trekkers had to end the trek at Laya because of a cough that only seemed to get worse. I had seen a fellow trekker hit by the same respiratory problem on a 22-day Everest region trek a few years ago.

Bhutan - Snowman Trek Route

The day’s 17.6 km. walk was a tough one. Starting in Laya at  3800m, we would descend past a military camp/checkpoint to the left fork in the trail at 3240 m.  and then scramble on some fairly rough and, in the forest sections, muddy “trail”.  Cloud cover and occasional rain had me wondering if we would ever get some decent weather. By the end of the day, we were back up to above 4200 meters!

the forest trail to Rodophu from Laya

the trail to Rodophu – yaks on the way to Gasa

the trail to Rodolphu - a short section gone after landslide

the trail to Rodophu – a short section gone after a landslide

approaching Rodophu campsite

The next day was a shorter one – 11 km. and included another pass, Tsemo La at 4905 m.

approaching Tsemo La on the way to Narethang

descending from Tsemo La

descending from Tsemo La

panorama from the east side of Tsemo La

Narethang camp in the morning

Narethang camp in the morning

our dining tent at Narethang

yaks coming from Lunana on the east side of Karakachu La

a free-roaming dog surveying his Himalayan domain

Just around the corner from where the dog was,  we walked into this stunning vista; it was perhaps the most spectacular of the trip so far.

a stunning Himalayan view from the Narethang-Tarina section of the Snowman route

a makeshift bridge across a side stream on the way to Green Lake (after Woche)  from Tarina

flowers on the hillside above Green Lake campsite (4450m)

Some two hundred meters above is Keche La (4666m). The two following images show the initial section above the campsite and then the nearby Keche La itself.

leaving our Green Lake campsite the next morning

a last view of Green Lake and a second higher one from Keche La (4666m)

Over the pass and down the other side.  Now we were definitely in the isolated district of Lunana with its river, the Pho Chhu flowing down from the three glacial lakes above Chozo and Thanza.

In 1994 a glacial lake outburst flood had a catastrophic impact on the swollen river all the way down to Punakha.  In reading about the event I had worried about our campsite location at Chozo.  The village of Lhedi pictured below sits high above the flood plain.  I remember thinking -“I hope the same is true of Chozo.”  (It was!)

the first view of Lhedi and the floodplain of the Pho Chhu

After a lunch stop at the east end of Lhedi (just beyond the school), we continued on to Chozo, sometimes walking on a rocky but dry “trail” on the floodplain itself and sometimes on one side or the other – as in the image below.

following the Pho Chhu up to Chozo

Chozo was another point on the trek at which one horse team would turn back to its starting point (Laya in this case) while a local team would be hired to take us to the next point (in this case, to the very end of the trek at Upper Sephu).  We spent two nights in Chozo.  Since the second day out of Laya, the blue skies in most of the pix in this post show that the weather had improved. We’d get more sun in the days to come.

panorama of the seasonal village of Chozo in Lunana district – October 2019

our Chozo campsite

the Chozo Dzong

The resident monk would let us enter the dzong and see the second -floor shrine room.

the resident monk at the Chozo dzong

As I look at that team of horses crossing the bridge below Chozo in the image below, I realize now that they may have been some of the horses that the guide had hired for the last leg of the trek – i.e. the section from Chozo down to Nikka Chhu.

a local horse team crossing the Phu Chhu just 1 km downriver from Chozo

a small section of the days 1200 meters in ascent to get to the day's pass - Sintia La

a small section of the day’s 1200 meters in ascent to get to the day’s pass – Sintia La

precarious footing – for horses and humans  – as we make our way to Sintia La (5020m)

The next morning at our campsite to the west of Tsho Chena, a brief shower at below 0ºC put a dusting of snow on everything!

morning snow shower at our campsite above Tshochena

Less than forty-five minutes later here is what things looked like at the same campsite!

twenty minutes after the morning shower at our above Tshochena campsite

A couple of days of dramatic passes – Loju La (5115m) above and Rinchen Zoe La (5300m) in the two images below!

panorama of  Rinchen Zoe La and the glacial lake below

yaks starting the descent from the highest pass of the Snowman trek – Rinchen Zoe La at 5100 meters

No matter where we were, lunch involved a full sit-down with folding tables, table cloths, plates and cutlery, and super comfortable Helinox chairs!  Three horses and three three staff members made sure that it all happened quickly. The food was prepared at breakfast time and then kept on heat-retaining containers until lunch.

Here is what it looked like on the day we crossed Loju La – it was a rather exposed spot on the high altitude plateau we were traversing.

lunchtime a few kilometers after Loju La

In the next couple of days, we would go from the stark and treeless vistas of high-altitude Himalayas – what you would expect to see on the Tibetan plateau – to increasingly luxuriant foliage as more and more plants appeared.

a glacial lake bed drying up as we make our way to Jichu Dramo from Joju La

lake on the way to Rerethang after crossing our last pass Tempe La

approaching our last camp at Rerethang

the lunch table at Sephu – trek done!

On the last morning, we covered almost twenty kilometers before arriving at Nikka Chhu. There to greet us were staff members of – Yangphelthe Thimphu adventure travel agency which had organized the actual trip.  I learned that this was the second year that Yangphel had done the trip for the out-of-Bhutan company through which I actually booked the trip.

[I booked the trip through World Expeditions, an Australian-based company that I have used before. Their website attracts the clients and creates the small groups that make the adventures possible for solo travellers like me. My contact was with one of their sales agents in Ottawa; they dealt with the Bhutan visa requirements and provided prompts on all the other things I needed to take care of before departure – current passport, Indian visa since I was flying to Paro via Delhi, mountaineering-level insurance, special dietary requirements, etc.]

The Yangphel staff had prepared another sit-down lunch complete with red and white wine and beer. I’ll admit I stuck to apple juice and water, knowing how the alcohol would affect me after the 20 km. hike that morning!

the Punakha Dzong – a view from our resort on the west side of the

By that evening we had driven to Punakha and a fantastic hotel (the Zhingham Resort)  overlooking the Punakha Dzong.

Day-By Day Snowman Trek Trip Report

Is the Snowman Trek worth the US $300 a day, given other Himalayan trekking options?

Here are a couple of the treks in nearby Nepal that I’ve done. They rival and perhaps surpass the Snowman as must-be-done epic trekking adventures – and like the Snowman Trek, they include the Tibetan Buddhist cultural overlay that I have until recently found especially enchanting.

The HighPasses of Everest Trek:

The Upper Mustang-Phu Valley Traverse Via Saribung La


Previous Post: Bhutan’s Snowman Trek Preview: Part 1 – Paro To Shana To Laya





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5 Responses to Bhutan’s Snowman Trek Preview: Part 2 – Laya To Chozo To Upper Sephu

  1. Loved the whole documentation, details and pictures.
    Is this trek not permitted to Indians?

    • true_north says:

      Mrunal – I am not sure if you received my reply. It did not appear here so I will rewrite a short version!

      Yes – of course Indians can do the Snowman Trek! October would be the best month to do so. My post for Day 23 notes the Bhutanese travel agency which organized our trek. It did an outstanding job. I will also add that it was not cheap! It costs non-Indian tourists $250. a day to be in Bhutan so my 27-day visit came out to $US6750. with another $375. for the trekking crew and the horse handlers at the end of the trek. Perhaps as an Indian you can arrange a less expensive trek?

      If not, you should seriously consider a trek in Nepal instead. The Mustang region, Dolpo, the Annapurnas, the walk up to Everest will all cost significantly less with mountain views more impressive than what the Snowman has to offer. The trekking infrastructure in Nepal is also much more developed than it is in Bhutan.

      A final note – The images I see from India these days are heartbreaking. I wish you good health in these covid times and a great trek (somewhere!) when we have passed through these difficult times. All the best from Canada!

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