Georgian Bay’s North and East Coast – Paddlers’ Eye Candy

As longtime canoe trippers on the rivers and lakes of the Canadian Shield, it has only been in the past six years that the possibilities of paddling the northern and eastern shore of Georgian Bay drew the attention of my brother and me.  It began with a four-day trip around Philip Edward Island at the north end of the bay with the La Cloche Mountain range of Killarney as the backdrop to some stunning coastal scenery, memorable campsites, and day after day with something quite novel – no portages!

The Essential Book On Paddling and Hiking The G’ Bay Coast:

Kas Stone

Essential to our preparation for that first trip and often consulted since is Kas Stone’s 2008 guidebook Paddling and Hiking The Georgian Bay Coast.

In it, you’ll find detailed descriptions of over thirty excursions, each complete with maps, info on access points as well as the natural and cultural history of the area, a list of key points to visit for each excursion.  The stunning photographs included in the book will convince any reader to begin their own exploration of the G’Bay Coast. The book is an investment and it will add to your understanding and appreciation of a somehow overlooked corner of Ontario that would draw Canadian travellers if it was anywhere else but in their own backyard!

looking north to the La Cloche range from Big Bay Rock on Philip Edward island

My brother and I came back from our PEI teaser of an introduction to the Georgian Bay coast and were already planning a return visit, something a bit longer and more ambitious than our PEI tour.

heading down a channel on the north shore of the Georgian Bay coast

The fact that this paddlers’ paradise is less than three hours from the urban sprawl of the Toronto area is remarkable. You leave the city at 7 a.m. and at 10 you are paddling down the east side of Franklin Island or on your way to the Minks or McCoys!

Hincks Island stop at the bottom of Beaverstone Bay

On Georgian Bay itself, the one significant objective danger is potentially rough water if the wind – often from the SE –  is blowing hard.  Lack of sound judgment is the one significant subjective danger!

If you’re a paddler other than a beginner – i.e at least advanced novice – you should be okay as long as you know when to

  • change the route that you spent all that time planning,
  • get off the water in the face of difficult weather conditions
  • make use of some of those 30,000 islands as windscreens as you paddle your way
  • wear your life jacket at all times!

It will be the weather that dictates the route; as paddlers, we listen and adapt.

the now-closed Georgian Bay Fishing Camp on the north shore of Georgian Bay

our beached canoe on Used To Be Island

An open canoe – even one without a spray skirt – is fine most of the time when paddling the coast. Since our first visit, my brother and I have spent another 20 days or so on various canoe trips along the shore of the Bay and have only experienced seriously rough water once. That time it prompted us to scrap a much-anticipated return visit to the Bustards, a collection of some 600 islands and rocks at the bottom of the French River delta. After passing by the fishing camp pictured above,  we headed for the mainland shore and a quieter day’s paddle behind various islands, thanks to the 30+ km/hr. winds out in the open water.

A kayak is without a doubt the safer option for a paddling adventure on the Bay. A much lower profile, a lower center of gravity, a fully enclosed cockpit – the advantages are there. I would get to find that out myself on an eight-day trip from down the coast from Killarney to Snug Harbour, which is just outside of Parry Sound. [See here for a map.]

chillin’ on Family Island – a sunny day on the Bay

The coastal waters can be busy with boat traffic during the prime summer months, especially on the weekends and especially the stretch from Parry Sound down to Port Severn.  Our solution has been to stay north of Parry Sound and to go in June before Canada Day or after Labour Day in September.  We rarely see other paddlers and only a few fishing boats out there and getting a great campsite is never an issue.

signs of new growth on lower Fox Creek after the fire of 2018 started by the wind turbine construction crew

lichen on red granite on Georgian Bay

our sheltered campsite in Fox Bay on an overcast afternoon

sunset on the Bustards in Georgian Bay

approaching the Bustard Rock lighthouses

beaching our canoe near the main Bustard Rocks lighthouse

campsite on Tanvat Island in the Bustards

sunrise over Byng Inlet

my kayak front deck – calm water in Hangdog Channel Georgian Bay

portrait view of the sunset from Pickerel Bay CS633

a view of the Pointe au Baril lighthouse from the dock

Henvey Inlet wind turbines from 20 km. away

our tents on the rocks – Garland Island northern Minks

dawn-on-garland-island-late-august

a paddler in Franklin Island Channel

paddlers savouring the end of another day – the sun sets over the Minks and McCoys

A Region Rich In Geological and Human History:

Not only is the coast an open book of geological ages, but it is also saturated with layer upon layer of cultural history.

  • The Anishinaabeg (i.e. Algonkian-speaking peoples) have made this area their home for perhaps the last two thousand years. The names of many lakes and rivers and bays along the coast are witness to their enduring presence.
  • The echoes of the fur trade – the coureurs de bois and the later voyageurs in their ten-meter-long NorthWest Co. canots du Maître – can still be heard.
  • The lumbermen who came in the late 19th C also left their mark, as did the fishing crews and the fishing stations they built on islands along the coast.

In the photo below, we would paddle around that island in Black Bay to the west end of the Voyageur Channel and beach our canoe at a spot we now know as la Prairie des Français. We had paddled by the flat open area a few times but did not know the story. This is where the voyageurs would set up camp for the night after their one-day descent of the French River from Lake Nipissing!  It was Toni Harting’s book The French River: Canoeing The River of the Stick Wavers that alerted us to the history of the area and in so doing added an extra dimension to our “explorations”!

  • a Group of Seven moment as we paddle up Batt Bay to Black Bay

Tanvat Island Portage in the Bustards  – west side

Snug Harbour – the end of the quieter northern half of the coast

Georgian Bay – A U.N. Biosphere Reserve Since 2004

In the meanwhile, more reading makes clear how little I knew about G’Bay and its natural and cultural history.  It is a Biosphere Reserve whose significance was recognized by the United Nations UNESCO branch in 2004. As the website states in its webpage dedicated to the Bay –

The Georgian Bay Biosphere Reserve comprises the largest island archipelago of the North American Great Lakes. Known locally as ‘The Thirty Thousand Islands’, it consists of a complex association of bays, inlets, sounds, islands, and shoals lying along the edge of the Canadian Shield bedrock, whose low lying hills and ridges characterize the adjacent mainland. This topography supports a rich mosaic of forests, wetlands, and rocky habitat types with associated biodiversity. It is also noted for its extraordinary scenic views which attract large numbers of summer residents, cruising boaters, and seasonal visitors.

While the boundaries of the Biosphere do not include the north shore of the Bay and its many islands  – i.e. the stretch up from French River delta to Beaverstone Bay and Philip Edward Island – what is found within the lines on the map above more than lives up to the description. The north shore from Key Harbour offers more of the same and has less boat traffic than the section from Parry Sound to the Severn River and Midland.

Georgian Bay & The Group of Seven 

While the Georgian Bay coast may be paddlers’ eye candy, the region also attracted some members of the Group of Seven. From the La Cloche Mountains and Killarney in the north to Go Home Bay and points south, these painters found inspiration in their travels up and down the Bay.

Thanks to Jim and Sue Waddington’s  35-year quest to stand in the very spots where these painters set up their easels – spots they arrived at through a lot of detective work and on-the-ground searching –  we get a book like their  In The Footsteps of the Group of Seven.  It includes dozens of fascinating examples of their camera perspective matching that of the painter’s eye. While their search led them all across the country, in Georgian Bay they found a number of locations whose scenery inspired Group members to put it to paint.  Here are a few from the Go Home Bay area –

Tom Thomson. Cottage on a Rocky Bay. 1914.

Fred Varley. Stormy Weather Georgian Bay. 1921.

Franklin Carmichael. A Grey Day. 1916.

Planning Your Own G’ Bay Kayak or Canoe Trip:

If you are looking for a one-week escape this summer – vaccinated or not! – then a Georgian Bay kayak or canoe trip with a put-in at Chikanishing or Snug Harbour or Hartley Bay may be just the answer!

The following trip reports include maps and information on

  • logistics,
  • shuttles,
  • gear rentals,
  • campsite locations,
  • cultural history

and other aspects of the adventure that should help to organize your own Georgian Bay adventure.

A Four-Day Canoe Trip Around Philip Edward Island:

Philip Edward Island canoe trip route

Paddling Around Georgian Bay’s Philip Edward Island – Part One

Paddling Around Georgian Bay’s Philip Edward Island – Part Two

From Killarney’s Chikanishing Creek to Snug Harbour 

Kayaking Georgian Bay  – From Killarney To Snug Harbour – Intro & Logistics

Days 1 & 2  Chikanishing Creek To Solomons Island to NE of Point Grondine

Days 3 & 4  Point Grondine To The Bustards’ Tanvat Island To S of Byng Inlet

Days 5 & 6  S of Byng Inlet To Hangdog I. Channel To Garland Island (Minks)

Days 7 & 8  Garland Island to Franklin Island To Snug Harbour

The French River Delta and the Bustard Islands:

overview of our 110 km. Ramble in the Delta

Logistics, Maps  & Day 1 (Hartley Bay To the French River’s “The Elbow”)

Day 2 – From The Elbow to the Bustards

Day 3 – From the Bustards To Eagle Next Point (West boundary of Park)

Day 4 – From Eagle Nest Point to East of the Fingerboard

Day 5 – To Bass Creek And The Park’s East Side

Day 6 – From the Georgian Bay Coast Up To Pickerel Bay (The Elephants)

Day 7 – From Pickerel Bay To Hartley Bay To Recollet Falls To Home

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Temagami’s Lady Evelyn River From Top To Bottom: Route Options, Maps, Shuttles, Permits, And More

Previous Post: Temagami & Lady Evelyn Canoe Trip: Introduction and a Bit of History

Route Options:

The Lady Evelyn from top to bottom – route choices

Both headwater branches of the Lady Evelyn can be accessed by vehicle. After a short ride west along Hwy 560 from Elk Lake towards Gowganda, you take the gravel road on the south side of the highway to Beauty Lake.  The map below illustrates the basic route and the two options you have once you get to Beauty Lake –

  • go left and you will be on the former Liskeard Lumber Road.  You can put in at a number of points on the North Branch of the river along the way.
  • go right and you will hit the Montreal River and the put-in to access Lady Evelyn’s South Branch;

See here for the full Parks Ontario map, which shows park boundaries as of 2007

The North Branch:

From Beauty Lake

The headwaters of Lady Evelyn’s North Branch (LE-NB) is the lake just south of Beauty Lake –  Headwater Lake. Some paddlers put in at Beauty and work their way down through a string of small lakes – Island, Paddle, and Carmen – followed by a 1500m portage and then to another possible put-in at the north end of Gooseneck Lake. Weekend Lake, the one after Kaa,  is the first lake within the Park’s boundaries.

By now, even those Type A paddlers (like me) who insist on completing everything to the nth degree are wondering why they didn’t just spare themselves the probable drudgery of this initial stretch which often involves too-shallow water and the stream running right alongside the gravel road.

From Gamble Lake

The common solution: driving down the Liskeard Lumber Road, marked in green on the map.  Note that the section inside the park is not always in the best shape thanks to flooding and maintenance issues.  A put-in at Gamble Lake is the start of many a trip down the Lady Evelyn.

If your choice is the North Branch, the two Ottertooth maps below should be in your map case.  They are clear, up-to-date (2017), and annotated with useful information.  Click on these two titles:

Temagami’s Canoe Atlas: Beauty Lake Road Access

Temagami’s Canoe Atlas: Trethewey (takes the paddler down below Gamble lake)

See below for possible shuttle arrangements.

The South Branch Option:

Via Smoothwater Lake (Montreal River Put-In)

The headwaters of Lady Evelyn’s South Branch (LE-SB) lies to the southwest of Beauty Lake.  Instead of taking the left fork at the top of Beauty Lake, follow the right fork until you come to the Montreal River and the bridge.  From the put-in, it is a fifteen-kilometer paddle up the Montreal River to  Smoothwater Lake, a lake with a renowned beach on the east side

A 650-meter portage into Apex Lake at the south end of the lake (the same portage used by paddlers on their way to Scarecrow Lake and Ishpatina Ridge) and you are in the river’s headwaters.

At the east end of Apex Lake, another carry takes you into Whitemud Lake, which is where some possible difficulties await.  We thought of it as the mandatory entry fee as we dealt with the first few kilometers of an often-shallow stretch of river blocked with beaver dams and deadfall that can wear you down with their frequency.  This is not really the place to bring your kevlar/carbon fiber 40-lb. canoe!

Via Lakefield Air to Florence Lake

There is a way of avoiding the potential slogfest of the very top of the SB.  In 2020, $800 will get you a bush plane ride from Lakeland Air on the Temagami waterfront to Florence Lake.  The lake is about a day’s paddle SE of Whitemud Lake and makes for an easier entry point to a canoe trip down the Lady Evelyn River.  Florence is one of Temagami’s most scenic lakes and its relative inaccessibility – either a fly-in or a paddle in from LE-SB or from Solace P.P. – makes it even more attractive.  After a night or two on Florence Lake,  you paddle down the outlet river to access LE-SB.

Florence Lake to Lady Evelyn River South Branch

There is an excellent map at the Ottertooth site which lays out the details of accessing the LE-SB.  It takes you from the put-in on the Montreal River almost down to Florence Lake.

Temagami’s Canoe Atlas: Smoothwater

Another Brian Back/Ottertooth map continues where the Smoothwater map ends and goes as far as The Forks, the point where the NB and the SB merge.

Temagami’s Canoe Atlas: Florence

See below for more on maps.

The Forks To Katherine Lake:

The Lady Evelyn – From The Forks To Katherine Lake

The Forks is where the two branches of the LE merge and for the next twelve kilometers the LE is one flow – i.e. the main channel.  From 358 meters a.s.l. at the Forks, a dozen sets of rapids and falls will take paddlers down to 333 meters on Katherine Lake. There are some great campsites along the way,  a chance to spend some time at your very own Shangri-La,  and a possible side trip up to Dry Lake.  Then it is down another two kilometers to the bottom end of Katherine Lake – once known as Divide lake because it is here that the river splits in two again.

Another Ottertooth map and accompanying description cover this stretch of the river:

The Forks-Lady Evelyn River – Macpherson Lake

Katherine Lake To Lady Evelyn Lake:

Katherine Lake – aka Divide Lake – is where another choice has to be made.  There are two channels, both characterized by dramatic waterfalls and rough portage trails, that await the paddler. The south channel is a bit longer – perhaps 7.5 km as opposed to 6.5.

No matter which one you choose there will be a significant drop – from 333m on Katherine Lake to 282 m in Sucker Gut Lake.  Portage trails are marked in red.

Lady Evelyn’s North Channel:

Of the two channels, the six-kilometer stretch of the North Channel (NC) is the more popular, perhaps because the portaging is easier or because of better campsite possibilities. As the map above shows, there are three major falls to deal with, as well as a couple of portages as you leave Katherine Lake.  Once below Frank Falls, you are in Sucker Gut Lake and close to a side trip to Maple Mountain or east to Obisaga Narrows and the paddle across Lady Evelyn Lake to Mowat Landing.

Lady Evelyn’s South Channel:

The longer South Channel (SC) also involves three major waterfalls and a few portages. While the Natural Resources Canada topo has the NC falls named, this is not the case for the SC’s, perhaps an indication that it has historically been less travelled than the NC.

The channel widens into Willow Island Lake, at the north end of which there used to be a waterfall before the 1925 Mattawapika dam raised the water level of Lady Evelyn Lake by an estimated five meters.  See this Ottertooth page for some background on the SC.

Lady Evelyn’s South Channel

Detailed descriptions of the various portages and things to watch out for can be found here.

For those planning to continue to Diamond Lake, the bottom of the SC puts them at the start of the “two-miler” portage into Diamond Lake and a possible exit at Ferguson Bay or the end of the Temagami Access Road further down on Lake Temagami.

Across Lady Evelyn Lake:

As you paddle down the north end of Sucker Gut Lake, you enter the south arm of Lady Evelyn Lake, the one that stretches all the way down to Diamond Lake. At the west end of the lake is a site marked on a 1905 map as “Indian House”.  It refers to the cabin and small garden of Wendaban, whose hunting ground the Lady Evelyn Lake area was until his death in 1894. The 20-feet (5-meter) rise in the water level of the lake caused by the completion of the Mattawapika Dam in 1925 makes it difficult to figure out the exact location of the cabin – but we plan to look around for any evidence that time or water have not erased.

from Sucker Gut Lake to the mouth of the Lady Evelyn/Montreal River

Crossing the Lady Evelyn from west to east should not present the paddler with the same difficulties that those heading west often face – i.e. prevailing winds from the NW or SW. It took us a day to paddle from one end of the lake to the east end; we spent two hours the next morning going down the final narrow stretch of the river to the Mattawapika Dam and then the short paddle across the Montreal River to Mowat Landing and our vehicle.

Our Route Choices:

We decided to come down the river’s South Branch.  It allows a vehicle shuttle to the put-in on the Montreal River and we got to paddle up Smoothwater Lake again.

We had briefly considered a Lakeland Air insertion on Florence Lake but for us, there is something about doing the whole river that made it a second choice.  Another bonus of a South Branch entry is that it allows for an easy side trip to Florence Lake.

We spent a couple of nights there.  A scramble up to the viewpoint on the southwest corner of Florence Lake was a trip highlight.

Day 1 – To The Put-In and Up River To Smoothwater Lake

Day 2 – From Smoothwater  to an “It’ll Do” CS on the South Branch

Day 3 – From Our Makeshift South Branch CS To Florence Lake

Day 4 – On Florence Lake

Day 5 – From Florence Lake To The Forks (And A Bit Beyond)

Day 6 – From Just Below The Forks to Macpherson Lake Island CS

Day 7 – From Macpherson Lake To The South Channel’s Bridal Veil Falls

After negotiating a dozen sets of rapids from The Forks to Katherine Lake,  The South Channel was our choice of descent to Willow Island Lake, leaving the North Channel for another possible visit.

Day 8 – From Bridal Veil Falls To The Bottom of the South Channel

The paddle across Lady Evelyn Lake proved to be uneventful. Given the prevailing winds, it is usually those paddlers crossing the lake from east to west that have problems.

Day 9 – From The South Channel To The West End of Lady Evelyn Lake

Days 10 & 11 – From The West End of Lady Evelyn lake to Mowat Landing

The trip ended with an easy portage around  Mattawapika Dam;  from there we paddled across the Montreal River to our vehicle parked at the Mowat Landing Cottages property.

Shuttles: Four of the Options

A put-in for either the north or south branch of the river will mean some shuttle arrangements.

1. Self-shuttle with two vehicles:

If you have two vehicles, you can do it yourself, leaving one at the put-in and one at the take-out at Mowat Landing.  It would be free but there is a cost – i.e. about four hours spent jockeying cars back and forth. We did notice a few vehicles on the side of the road in a small parking area off Beauty Lake Road at the put-in on the Montreal River.

At Mowat Landing, on Labour Day weekend the small parking area was full and vehicles lined the side of the gravel road for 100 meters.  Many of them belong to people who have gone up to the fishing lodges on Lady Evelyn Lake and those people do not require permits to leave their vehicles there.  Your vehicle would not stand out if it did not have a permit. We went with the worry-free option and left our vehicle on the Mowat Landing Cottages property; there is a $40. a week charge for the service.

2. Temagami Outfitting Co.

Their website has the following information as far as cost is concerned –

 +1 416-835-0963      info@temagamioutfitting.ca

If you decided to end the trip at Mowat Landing, you would also have to make an arrangement for the outfitters to leave your vehicle there.  If doing the entire river was not that important to you, the alternative is to paddle back to your vehicle in Temagami village via Diamond Lake and Lake Temagami once you got to the bottom of the North or South Channels.

3. Smoothwater Outfitters   

1-705-868-6464.

Smoothwater Outfitters is located 15 kilometers north of Temagami Village just off the west side of Hwy 11 on Smoothwater Road.  I sent an email regarding shuttle options and got this detailed response –

The best drive-in access for the Lady Evelyn River is Gamble Lake. The alternate route from Smoothwater Lake (using the Montreal River access point) adds distance and involves significantly more effort, as there are a few long portages between Smoothwater Lake  and Gamble Lake. So, I’m suggesting that you will want to start at Gamble Lake, but that’s your choice to make. The shuttle cost to the Montreal River access point is $395. The shuttle cost to Gamble Lake is $450.

While on the way to either access, we can drive into Mowat Landing to leave your vehicle there for an additional $100.

Lots of good advice along with the cost of the various options. Interestingly, going down the south branch from Apex Lake is not considered but the brutal series of portages from Smoothwater to Gamble is!

4. Mowat Landing Cottages:

+1 705 647 2550       https://www.mowatlandingcottages.ca

Mowat Landing – and the Cottages property – is located 70 kilometers north of Temagami with the final 20 km. stretch on Hwy 558 from Hwy. 11.  The long-time owners are Trevor and Lisa Graydon.

This ended up being our shuttle choice. For $250 + HST we got a shuttle to the Montreal River put-in; another $60 paid for leaving our vehicle on their property for 11 days instead of on the side of Hwy. 558 near the public boat ramp; we also spent another $35 to camp on one of their tent sites by the river the night before the shuttle so that we could get going fairly early – 8:30 – the next morning.

By 10:45 a.m. we were already paddling up the Montreal to Smoothwater Lake!

Maps:

Fed. Gov’t. `:50,000 Topographical Maps:

The Federal Government’s Natural Resources Canada 1:50.000 Topographical Maps. The first five maps were produced in 2010 and include the following note:

  1. 041 P 10 Gowganda   
  2. 041 P 07_Smoothwater Lake 
  3. 041 P 02_Pilgrim Creek (south    section of Florence Lake) 
  4. 041 P 01_Obabika Lake (bottom part of Lady Evelyn South Channel) 
  5. 041 P 08_Lady Evelyn Lake  
  6. 031 M 05__Cobalt   1996  

The above jpg files are 5 Mb in size and on my WordPress server.  You can access the original tif or pdf files at the Natural Resources Canada website here by using the map sheet i.d. above to access the correct folders and sub-folders.  The size of the NRC tif files is in the 20 Mb range.

David Crawshay’s Topo Canada iOS App for iPhone enables you to download all of the above to your iPhone.  While leaving the iPhone on all day to use as your primary GPS device would eat up battery power like crazy, it is very useful to make a quick confirmation that you are indeed where you think you are! Download Crawshay’s app here.

Toporama Canada Online Map:

Toporama is NRC’s modern version of the archived topo sheets.  It is essentially a seamless map of the entire country and allows you to extract from and apply to the map all sorts of additional information and features.

The Ottertooth Website Maps: 

The Brian Back/ Ottertooth maps are the most up-to-date and informative maps available for a good chunk of a trip down the Lady Evelyn.  They take right to the bottom of the North and South Channels of the river below Katherine Lake.

Temagami’s Canoe Atlas: Beauty Lake Road Access

Temagami’s Canoe Atlas: Trethewey (takes the paddler down below Gamble Lake)

Temagami’s Canoe Atlas: Smoothwater

Temagami’s Canoe Atlas: Florence

Gray’s River (the bottom of the map has the LE Main Channel from the Forks to Macpherson)

Lady Evelyn’s South Channel

Chrismar Temagami Maps:

Two maps in  Chrismar Mapping’s Adventure Series cover the Lady Evelyn River from top to bottom. [See here for coverage.]

They are  Temagami 4 (2011 vintage) and Temagami 1.  (Mine is from 2008 but there has been a refresh since, mostly with updated contact info.)

The 1:80,000 scale maps show campsite locations, all rapids and falls; portages are marked and calculated to the nearest ten meters. The backside is covered with related information and could serve as all the bedtime reading you’ll need!

In conjunction with the 1:50,000 NRC topos and the Ottertooth maps (both free downloads), and the essential Wilson maps mentioned below, you’d be more than all set!

Hap Wilson: Temagami Guidebook and The Cabin

When it comes to canoe tripping in Temagami, Hap Wilson’s Temagami: A Wilderness Paradise is the book – the essential source.  It was the first of a number of guidebooks he has written over the past forty years.  His guidebooks to the Missinaibi, the Rivers of Manitoba, and the Upper Ottawa Valley all sit on my bookshelf and have served me well. Route suggestions, detailed sketches of rapids, and advice on portages and campsites, as well as his version of local history…it is all there and still mostly relevant and useful forty years after the first edition!  The book is an investment that will repay itself many times over as you inevitably return for more of Temagami after your first visit. It points out things that will save you time, aggravation, or worse!

Temagami was first published in 1979 and has seen a number of reprints and editions.  The one pictured is the second edition from 2011. [See here for an Amazon.ca copy of the book for $25. You may also find it at your public library. The Toronto Public Libary has 8 copies of the 2nd ed. See here for the details.]

Another Wilson book that is worth checking out is The Cabin: A Search For Personal Sanctuary (2005).  It is really his autobiography. It moves from –

  • his childhood obsession with creating an isolated and secret space to which he could retreat from his dysfunctional family
  • to his discovery of Temagami and wilderness canoe tripping in the early 1970s,
  • to how he came to be the owner of what he has turned into an Eco-Lodge at Cabin Falls on the South Channel of the Lady Evelyn River.

The book needs some detailed maps to illustrate the geography that is at its core.  Given that Wilson is clearly obsessed with maps and does an incredible job creating them,  the book disappoints with its one map. On it, the Temagami area is the size of a postage stamp with none of the detail that would often help the reader make sense of what is being described and narrated.  You end up having to put down the book and access other maps to get the full picture.

Wilson will also have you wincing at his over-use of Brobdingnagian synonyms and often not-quite-appropriate words when simpler ones would do just fine.  However,  there are more than enough Temagami-related nuggets of information and insight to persevere.

A digital version of most of the book is also available at the Google Books site.  The Preamble: Transformation and Chapter One are both available. [See here.]  They are recommended reading before a trip down the Lady Evelyn; both will make you look at things a bit differently than usual.

  • The Preamble: Transformation recounts the local version of the Ojibwe Flood Myth with Nanabush (referred to here as Nenebuc) taking on Mishipeshu, the Lynx-like creature of the deep waters and the ensuing flood and recreation of earth. And it all begins on Smoothwater Lake!
  • Chapter One is Wilson’s account of his own mythic journey from Smoothwater Lake to Cabin Falls on the South Channel of the Lady Evelyn in the company of a friend or client to whom he is revealing his Paradise at Cabin Falls.

Wilson’s Maps from the book:

We are obsessed enough about the weight that we leave guidebooks behind, only scanning and printing what we need.  Wilson’s notes and maps on the Lady Evelyn route are scattered throughout his book [p.58; 92-93; 112-115].

First, we scan the relevant information and then rearrange it in trip order;  we also enlarge some of the maps to make them easier to read while we’re on the move.  In this case, the result was a printed 13-page pdf file that went inside our map case,  along with a Chrismar map [Temagami 4 or 1]  and one day’s worth of 1:50,000 NRC topo map.

Backcountry Camping Permits:

Ontario Parks backcountry fees structure for parks in the Temagami area –

See here for the source.

For some reason, the Temagami-area parks have gone to a per campsite fee instead of a per camper fee.  In Algonquin, it would cost my brother and me – both seniors – $10 each per night or $20 combined.  In Lady Evelyn P.P. we get to spend an extra $10. a day per campsite, thanks to the fact that there are only two of us.  The larger the group, the more of a deal it becomes – and the more stress to that campsite!

“Streamlining” Camping Fees by Quadrupling Them For Solo Canoe Trippers! 

As for the solo canoe tripper who is not yet a senior –  $37 per campsite! This is absurd to the point of encouraging paddlers to skip the fees altogether and hope for the best – or paying for as many days as they would have given the old fare structure.  This would leave solo or party-of-two paddlers with a few days of no coverage. However,

  • Given how few park officials there are to check camping permits,
  • given the isolation of the top stretch from Florence or Beauty Lake to the bottoms of the two channels below Katherine Lake,

it may be worth the gamble. Apparently, the fine is $125. if you have no permit at all and $75. if your permit does not cover all your nights.

See this thread on the Canadian Canoe routes forum for Jonathan Kelly’s articulate and thoughtful initial post – and all the others which followed.

“Ontario Parks Quadrupled Rates for Soloists in Some Parks”

This change.org petition also deals with the issue.

Hugh Carey started the petition. He introduced it this way –

Click here to access the webpage,  sign your name to the petition addressed to the Ontario Minister of the Environment Jeff Yurek,  and perhaps make a contribution.

Fishing Permits:

While I have never enjoyed fishing, for some it is an essential part of a canoe trip.  The following links should provide those canoe trippers who are also avid fishermen/women with what they need to know before they set off:

Fishing Licence – Canadian Residents

Fishing Licence – Non-Canadian Residents

Zone 11 Information – Regulations and Limits

 

I had no idea it was so complicated – and expensive! – for non-residents!  Any comments on the Lady Evelyn as a fishing mecca will be appreciated by some readers keen to know the whereabouts of any great fishing spots. Leave your tips in the Comments section below!

Deforestation In the Temagami Area:

In July of 2018, there was a huge wildfire in the area to the northeast of Lady Evelyn Lake. The map below shows its extent, with the red representing the most recent forest loss. [Note that another reason for some of the other areas of forest loss may be logging activity and not fire.]

Check out this website (here) if you want to take a closer look at the Temagami area (or any other!) as you plan your route.  It provides an extra layer of context to the journey!

Current Fire Situation:

We paddled down the river during the last two weeks of summer.  No fires to report!  In late August there had been one small fire reported in the Trethewey Lake area.  One thing we can expect is that if there was a fire, officials will be doing all possible to put it out.

This would contrast with our experience during a Wabakimi canoe trip.  We kept expecting to see water bombers appear to put out the flames that we could see from a few kilometers away.  We were informed by the park official who got out of the park helicopter and beckoned us across the river that sometimes parks management will happily let a fire burn decades of accumulated deadfall while still trying to protect outposts and lodges.

Ontario Forest Fire Map

Cellphone Coverage:

In short – we were not expecting any except on the last day as we paddle down to the Mattawapika Dam.  The various lodges at the east end of the lake seem to have cellphone coverage. Other than that, you are basically off the grid.  [Update: no cell coverage for us even at the east end of LE.]

We brought along our Garmin inReach Explorer+; it can send an emergency notice, as well as send and receive emails.  The real-time tracking feature which lets the folks at home know where we are is a bonus, as is the weather forecast feature, with info supplied to Garmin by Dark Sky, recently acquired by Apple and slated to become its de facto weather app.

cell phone coverage – Temagami Canoe Country

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Next Post: Day 1 – To the Put-In And Up The Montreal River To Smoothwater Lake

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See also – 

Day 2From Smoothwater Lake To An “It’ll Do” CS  On Lady Evelyn’s South Branch

Day 3 – From Our “It’ll Do” Campsite To Florence Lake

Day 4 – On Florence Lake

Day 5 – From Florence Lake To Just Below The Forks of the Lady Evelyn

Day 6 – From Just Below The Forks to Macpherson Lake Island CS

Day 7 – From Macpherson Lake To The South Channel’s Bridal Veil Falls

Day 8 – From Bridal Veil Falls To The Bottom of the South Channel

Day 9 – From The South Channel To The West End of Lady Evelyn Lake

Days 10 & 11 – From The West End of Lady Evelyn lake to Mowat Landing

 

 

Posted in Anishinaabek World, Temagami, wilderness canoe tripping | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 5 Comments

A Rainy Day in Toronto: Nov. 30, 2020.

See Viggo’s Den for more on our engaging Icelandic Sheepdog Viggo.

The weather forecast for the next three days is not good. Rain, rain, and more rain – and maybe a bit of snow too! On the map, it looks like we are being side-swiped by a weather system coming up from the U.S. mid-west.

Viggo was not too keen on stepping out this morning! I had to grab the big umbrella and go out with him so that he could get his business done!

Then it was right back inside. No five-kilometer walk this morning! Instead of a walk in the rain,  we played our first game of fetch much earlier than usual.  We may be doing this more often over the next few days.

I sit on the floor by the couch in the living room and toss the stuffed jelly bean to the far end of the kitchen at the other end of the house. It used to be a rubber ball but after he had 14 teeth taken out six weeks ago we changed to something softer on his mouth! He gets a treat each and every time he delivers the bean. [He has trained me well!]

Here he is waiting for the toss –

And here he is bringing it back for that treat!

The 15-to-20 toss game over, Viggo hopped up on the bolster pillow stuffed between the back of the couch and the front window and looked outside.  I surf into another weather app to see when I can go for a bike ride next.

Meanwhile, my thoughts returned to the opinion piece I had read a few minutes earlier in today’s NY Times – Jochen Bittner’s 1918 Germany Has a Warning for America.  

It draws alarming parallels between the

  • the myth of the Stolen Election, the Big Lie perpetrated by Trump and enabled by the Republican Party and
  • the German “Stab in the Back” myth of 1918 that Hitler was able to exploit in his rise to power.

The extent to which the ongoing political/social/cultural/economic disaster to the south of us has taken over my consciousness day after day is depressing.  “Just focus on something else,” my mind tells me. “Maybe try focusing on Canada’s problems instead!”.  And on top of everything, we then throw covid-19 into the mix!   Viggo provides brief Zen moments of relief.  A lifelong history, news, and politics junkie, I really need to go on a complete news detox for a while – and walk Viggo more!

Viggo keeps guard at the front window and lets us know if anyone dares to step onto our front porch. Advert flyers, Amazon boxes, FedEx deliveries, Canada Post mail are all announced with a series of sharp barks. How can this little guy make such noise?

Later on this afternoon – rain or not- we will step out for a short walk.  I’ll slip on his rain jacket;  that should keep at least 50% of him dry as he sniffs his way down the street and around the neighbourhood.

Right now though – it is time for another round of Fetch!

The Adventures of Viggo In “Roverdale” has more of our little hooligan!

Viggo stirring up the snow

Posted in Ramblin' With Viggo | 2 Comments

 Temagami’s Lady Evelyn River From Top to Bottom: Days 10 and 11 – Across Lady Evelyn Lake To Mowat Landing

Previous Post: Day 9 – From The South Channel To The North End of Lady Evelyn Lake

Day 10 – From West To East Across Lady Evelyn Lake

  • distance: 18.5 km with a  pass by of Garden Island Lodge
  • time: 8:15 a.m. to 3:55 p.m.
  • portages/rapids:  0/0
  • weather: cloudy, overcast, everything from misty to full-on downpour
  • campsite: official signed site on Mattawapika Island; 2-3 2p tents, one good  4-P site near the fire pit.
  • Maps: NRC 1:50,000 –  041 P 08_Lady Evelyn Lake.

We woke up to light rain.  The weather forecast called for an overcast morning with a 40% chance of rain which would increase to 80% by 1:00.  Light wind from the SW was also on the menu. We had decided to put in some kilometers before the big rains came; three or four hours would allow us to paddle all the way to the east end of the lake. While a number of the islands are private land – cottages or fishing lodges – there are more than a few campsite choices, as the map below indicates.

campsites at the east end of Lady Evelyn Lake

The first job – as always –  was to put most of the contents that were inside the tent back into their jars, containers, Ziploc bags, compression sacs, etc – and then put everything inside the Watershed duffle that holds all our must-stay-dry things.

We have yet to embrace the 60-liter barrels that have gradually taken over since the mid-1980s when some Ottawa-area canoe trippers, including Wally Shaber, first started using discarded olive barrels instead of the traditional clunky wannigans or the cotton canvas Duluth-style packs that were popular at the time. Shaber’s involvement in the paddling gear center Trailhead and the canoe tripping outfit Black Feather helped to popularize the blue barrels.

the campsite scene in the morning – tent already down

While Max took down the tent, I retrieved our food bag and got breakfast ready. Since the tarps were already up from the night before, the tent underneath came down dry and we had a dry spot for breakfast.

the front area of our campsite on the point – west end of Lady Evelyn Lake

We took a last look at our campsite; it is on an elevated section of a gravel/sand deposit left by the last retreating glacier some 12,000 years ago.

a last shot of the campsite on the point – Lady Evelyn Lake

Lady Evelyn Before & After The Flooding:

Later when we pushed off from the spit, we took the shot above and wondered if the site was the same as the location referred to as Preacher’s Point on a map at the Garden Island Fishing Lodge website.

We also considered the possibility that the spit we had camped on had once been a ridge above the cabin and small garden area belonging to Wendaban, the mid-to-late 1800s Ojibwe owner of the hunting grounds of which Lady Evelyn Lake formed the core. A map drawn by F.G. Speck in 1913 with the input of Ojibwe residents of Bear Island indicates Wendaban’s territory as #24. [See the end of the day’s post for more on the Wendaban story and possible locations of his cabin.]

When it comes to Lady Evelyn Lake, there is one big problem in trying to find shoreline locations like that of Wedaban’s house from 150 years ago – the shoreline has changed dramatically!  Looking at Speck’s map from 1913, it is clear that back then, Lady Evelyn Lake was essentially the section of the lake we think of these days as the south arm.

At the south end was Lady Evelyn Falls, where the water tumbled down from Diamond Lake ( previous Ojibwe name – Nonwakaming Lake). Beyond Obisaga Narrows to the east, Speck’s map shows the Lake narrowing significantly as it flows to Mattawapika Falls and the final plunge down to the Montreal River near James Mowat’s farm, which was established around 1900.

This map below was produced by a 1900 Ontario Gov’t sponsored survey team commissioned to explore/survey this part of northeastern Ontario as the first step of opening up the area to the exploitation of lumber and mineral resources and for colonization. It provides a more detailed view of Lady Evelyn Lake; it also labelled the long narrow stretch above the Falls as  Mattawapika Lake.

Lady Evelyn Lake – 1900 map

Another map – this one from 1907 – labels things a bit differently. While it only shows the top part of Lady Evelyn Lake, it does show the section from Obisaga Narrows to the Montreal River.

Lady Evelyn Lake – the north end to Montreal River – 1907 map – see here for the source

Even a cursory look at a recent map of Lady Evelyn Lake will make clear the impact of the dam.   It was constructed at Mattawapika Falls – the first in 1915 was followed by a much higher one in 1925 – and is said to have raised the water level of the lake by 5 meters.

What was a fairly narrow river passage from Obisaga Narrows eastward became a man-made lake rivalling the pre-1925 Lady Evelyn Lake on the west side of the Narrows!  The south side was especially affected by the higher water level. However, all the way west to Willow Island Lake, new bays and lakes appeared as old shorelines disappeared.

So too did rapids and waterfalls as the higher water level covered them up!

  • Gone, for example, was the 1.5 meter Willow Island Falls at the outlet of Willow Island Lake where it once tumbled into Lady EvelynLake.
  • Also gone at the south end of the Lady Evelyn Lake, where Diamond Lake’s outflow tumbles into Lady Evelyn, was Lady Evelyn Falls. These days there is a one-foot shelf that involves a short carry-over or a paddle down if water conditions allow.
  • Both pre-1925 maps above indicate a Mattawapika Lake. This may be based on a once-set of rapids that made the distinction between the two lakes possible. Those rapids would also have disappeared with the higher water level.

Paddling East on Lady Evelyn Lake:

Garden Island Lodge

We passed the north side of Garden Island and looked over at the Lodge, the furthest west of the fishing lodges on Lady Evelyn Lake.

In spite of our expectation of lots of motorboat traffic as we headed east towards the dam, it turned out to be no more than three or four over the day and a half that we were in motorboat territory. Being mid-week in September after Labour Day probably had something to do with it!

There are no signs announcing the fact but as we paddled into Obisaga Narrows we were leaving Obabika River Provincial Park and entering the East Lady Evelyn Lake Conservation Reserve.

a brief moment of the sun over Lady Evelyn Lake – it was not to last!

The sun captured in the image above was so noteworthy – it lasted for seconds and would be all be got this particular day! – that I had to get a shot.  The image also shows a glass-like Lady Evelyn surface – the wind had died down from the afternoon and evening before. It would only pick up again in mid-afternoon.

As we had seen at the south end of Willow Island Lake and in the west bay of Sucker Gut Lake, we now got more charred pine trunks on the north side of Lady Evelyn. You’d think that after 100 years those tree trunks would have rotted or fallen- but apparently not. We have come to think of them as middle finger salutes from the lumber companies responsible.

charred tree trunks in Lady Evelyn – reminders of the Dam Flooding

The company most likely responsible for the dams – and those charred tree trunks – was the A.J. Murphy Lumber Company.  An article by Edward F. Mantle based on interviews with Charlie Mowat of Mowat’s Landing provides the details:

The most recent and longest continuous logging operation in the area commenced in 1916. It was founded by Mr. A. J. Murphy. Known first as the Conkey and Murphy Lumber Company, the name was later changed to the A. J. Murphy Lumber Company, the name which the firm bore until its dissolution in 1960.

The Murphy limits were very extensive and stretched from the Montreal River far west to Lady Evelyn Lake. Large camps operated annually for many years in the area around Lady Evelyn Lake and every spring there was a huge drive through Lady Evelyn Lake and the Montreal River to the Murphy Mill at Latchford. This mill, located on the river southeast of Latchford, was destroyed by fire on June 22, 1957. It was later rebuilt on Bay Lake a short distance north of town.

See here for the entire article

Our route across the lake after Obisaga Narrows was one that followed the south shore. The mist and light spit of the morning turned into more of a drizzle as we were paddling past the long, narrow slivers of sand topped with tree growth known as the Obawanga Dunes. Since it was time for a lunch break, we started scanning the tops for a possible place to set up our Helinox chairs. The sign on the tree below – a sign we’d never seen before – drew our attention to the spot.  On the sign are what look like a tarp and a tent – we figured it was an emergency shelter spot indication!  In retrospect, a  more likely interpretation would be a tent icon with a slash mark through it! Odd that the circle and slash mark would have so completely faded!  The premise is that the dunes are too fragile to allow paddlers to camp on them – even though their impact would be considerably less than the wake created by the motorized fishing boats zipping up and down the lake.  There are too many fishing lodges on the lake to even question the impact of that boat traffic on the Obawanga Dunes!

About a minute after our 10’x 14′ silnylon tarp was up it started raining heavily – and then it came down even harder!  In the next 45  minutes, we got more than a day’s worth of rain while we enjoyed lunch and coffee underneath our tarp. Lucky timing!

emergency campsite – lunch spot in Lady Evelyn Lake’s Obawanga Dunes

Ellen Island Camp – a fishing lodge at the east end of Lady Evelyn Lake

As noted above, there are quite a few campsite options at the east end of Lady Evelyn Lake. We paddled past the Ellen Island Camp, a fishing lodge made up of six cottages and the main lodge.  Then we headed to the south-western tip of Mattawapika Island.  The site we found was of the “it’ll do” grade with the earth wet and muddy thanks to the rain and a messy campsite left by some fishing boat party.  The only relatively flat spot for our 4-P tent was the area we tidied up fairly close to the firepit.  Smaller tents will have an easier time of it!

our campsite on lady Evelyn Lake – east end

We had just gotten off the water as the wind started to blow a little harder – now it was coming from the northwest.  Temperatures were expected to drop to freezing overnight; a new weather system was moving in!  One thing that it was forecast to include was much more sunshine than we had seen in days.

Mattawapika Island CS – canoe as windscreen

Looking at the Garmin inReach’s weather forecast we got the summary you see below.   Had that been the forecast two days before we’d have been on Hobart Lake looking up to the  Maple Mountain ridge.  Instead,  thanks to the weather cards we had been dealt, we’d decided to paddle out the next morning.

the weather forecast for Day 11

What’s With All the History Stuff?

I still remember the initial hesitation before uploading my first canoe trip report. What could my reports possibly include that would be of use or interest to potential future wilderness paddlers?  There’d be no machismo river running feats à la Adam Shoalts! Imagine me writing –

“Paddling through the rain, I approached the start of the whitewater in my canoe. They were deep rapids, free of visible rocks, but with big standing waves that could easily swamp a canoe. Naturally I decided to canoe right through them.          from the chapter on the Thelon in Beyond The Trees

Yeah, right!  I’d also never be able to include a photo of me – a vegan since 1990 with a lifelong aversion to hunting and fishing –  proudly thrusting the impressive walleye below in my outstretched arms!  There’d be no images of a campfire fish fry in my report.

apologies to Garden Island Lodge! (image from their website)

I’ve come to realize that just as other people write trip reports that suit the way they relate to “wilderness”,   I could do the same.  My outstretched arms hold not a prize fish but something else that I, a lifelong history nerd and 35-year high school teacher of world religions, social science, and history-related subjects, find personally fulfilling.

Including in my reports what I learn about the history of places paddled or trekked and the stories of the people that live(d) there – that is what I angle for! The problem, of course, is that while the walleye can be weighed and is pretty much cut and fried, “history” depends on who is holding it out and how (s)he chooses to weigh the “facts”.

While learning about the flooding of the lake definitely helped us make sense of the landscape/waterscape we were seeing, our brief entry into the world of the Ojibwe inhabitants of Temagami provided an added human dimension that enriched our trip down the Lady Evelyn from top to bottom.

It was Wendaban’s story that I found most intriguing. It was finding F.G. Speck’s Report that opened my eyes to the world of the mid-to-late 19th C world of the Temagami Ojibwe. And, as usually happens, answering a few questions has brought to light even more that I now need to find answers to! Click on the title below to access Speck’s report in pdf format:

Aleck Paul (2nd chief), Frank Speck, and Lucy Wassageshik on Bear Island 1913

Family Hunting Territories and Social Life of Various Algonkian Bands of the Ottawa Valley. F.G. Speck. Ottawa: Government Printing Press, 1915. 

Wendaban’s  Story & The Flooding of the Lake:

Wendaban’s Life – Some Background Information:

While Speck provides the essential background to the world that Wendaban lived in, Thor Conway sketches a more detailed picture of the Ojibwe story.  It is based on thirty years of work and contact from the 1970’s onward as an Ontario Government archaeologist in the Temagami and Sault Ste. Marie area and later as an advocate for and advisor to the Temagami First Nation.

Thor Conway’s book Secrets of the Temagami Wilderness, slated for a 2017 release but not yet published,  includes a chapter on Wendaban. It is the sample chapter available at Conway’s website (see here).  In it, Wendaban is presented as a legendary and powerful Ojibwe shaman. Writes Conway:

If you envision Wendaban as Merlin the Druid of King Arthur’s tribal world, you would understand the nature of his powers and his unique position within tribal society.

How accurate a portrayal of Wendaban Conway presents is open to question.

It may be that Conway’s Wendaban is as fictional a character as Merlin was, a handy receptacle for the fantasies of storytellers who made of him what their narratives required. According to Conway, he was born circa 1818 and died in 1894; he was the son of Wabigan and the brother (younger?) of Ke’kek.

From their father they inherited their hunting grounds with Wendaban, as noted above, getting the territory contained in #24 and Ke’Kek receiving the larger 27 and 27a. Given the size of their father’s hunting territory, Wabigan may have been among the twelve Ojibwe family heads that had moved into the Temagami area from Lake Nipissing/Georgian Bay area around the year 1800.

This information comes from the report written by F.G. Speck who spent time on Bear Island in 1913 with the Ojibwe community living around the Hudson Bay Company post there. (There is a link to his report a few lines above.) Conway’s view is that the Temagami Ojibwe have lived there for many thousands of years.

In the 1840s an Ojibwe by the name of Misabi (he is named David Missabie in other accounts) came up from Lake Nipissing, perhaps from the Shawanaga area. Given that Misabi married Ke’kek’s daughter and his sister married Wendaban, it may be that it was arranged marriages that drew them both to Temagami.  Ke’kek gave Misabi a part of his hunting territory to seal the new relationship.

As for Wendaban and Misabi’s sister, Conway tells the story of their meeting this way –

Wendaban met his wife, Old Misabi’s sister, during his travels to Lake Nipissing or Georgian Bay. She belonged to a Beaver Clan family living at Shawanaga…

Not clear is what business he would have that would draw him away from Lady Evelyn Lake to Nipissing “during his travels”.   However, his connection with Nipissing is well attested.  Government records show that from 1856 to 1883 Wendaban collected government money in 22 of them as a member of the Nipissing band. He may have made a home with his wife in her community as opposed to them spending all their time in Temagami. Not stated is when his wife died.  Conway does tell the reader this –

Despite his powers over fertility and interaction with the replenishment of life for his tribe, Wendaban and his wife did not have children. So, Wendaban’s line died out.

As I read  “his powers over fertility and interaction with the replenishment of life” I thought – What can this flurry of words even mean?

The Location of Wendaban’s House: 

The map from 1907 below indicates a couple of locations that may correspond to that of Wedaban’s house. One has the label “Indian House” and the other “Indian Cabin”.

the north end of Lady Evelyn Lake

Nastawgan map

If the “Indian House” located on the north shore of the lake is the location, then it was very near to where our campsite was.

Craig Macdonald’s Nastawgan map  (see here) also locates Wedaban’s home in this approximate location. He labels it A-mik Tigwan Ago-ji-Gonay N. which translates as Place of the Hanging Beaver Skulls.  Apparently, Wendaban decorated his property with the dangling bones of various animals, including the amik or beaver.

Found at the Toronto Public Library website was another map from 1900 attributed to the Lumsden Steamboat Line. Oddly, a further note says “Specific date (year) of map is unknown”. However, given that the Temiskaming and Northern Ontario Railroad, completed up to New Liskeard from North Bay in 1904, does not appear on the map, it is safe to assume the map predates that year. At the northwest corner of then-Lady Evelyn Lake, we see the label “Windabin’s House”!

Access the entire map “Temiskaming, Temagami & Keepawa lake country” here.

A Possible Location Of The Cabin:

To the NW of our tent site is a bay that does not exist on the pre-flood maps of the area.  It is one possible location of Wendaban’s house and small garden. Other options include what are now small bays to the east of the campsite on top of the esker. They would have had the added advantage of providing more shelter from the NW winds.

The Flooding Of Wendaban’s House:

Conway leaves the reader with one last Wendaban story; it is connected to the flooding of Lady Evelyn Lake caused by the dam at Mattawapika Falls.

Early dams were built to assist logging drives. The flooding waters forced Wendaban from his home on an ancient point of land marked by skulls and mystery. According to Madeleine Katt Theriault, Wendaban returned home to find his log home floating and gradually sinking into the lake. Floodwaters covered his gardens causing a loss of important foods meant for storage into the winter months. The old man was driven from his lifelong home on Lady Evelyn Lake.

The first dam was erected in 1915 at the outlet of Lady Evelyn Lake – i.e. where the Mattawapika Dam stands today.  (See here for more info.) Its impact was not all that large. It was the 1925 construction of a much higher dam that would alter significantly the nature of Lady Evelyn Lake from the dam all the way west to what became Sucker Gut Lake.

The story of the old yet still feared shaman paddling home only to see his cabin floating and gradually sinking into the lake is heart-breaking. The detail about the flooding of the gardens adds to the pathos of the scene.  The story is also false. [To be clear, false as in false memory and not false as in intentional misstatement.]

Conway notes that he got the story from Madeline Theriault (1908-2000).  She was born into an Ojibwe family on Bear Island and is the author of Moose To Mocassins, an account of her life in the Temagami area with an emphasis on how she and her family lived the late 1800s version of a traditional “off the land” lifestyle until 1940 when her first husband Alex Mathias died.

It should be noted that not once in her memoir does she mention the flooding of Lady Evelyn Lake, even though this would have impacted their hunting grounds.

The problem with the flooded cabin story is that Wendaban died in 1894, years before the first loggers arrived and before even the first smaller dam was built (1915).  Wendaban did not return home to find his log home floating and gradually sinking into the lake!

What the story told by Theriault does is transfer to the legend of Wendaban the shock and upset that the Temagami Ojibwe obviously felt with the massive flooding of the 1925 Mattawapika Dam. Theriault would have been 17 at the time.

[In 1942, another dam was constructed at the outlet of Diamond Lake where it tumbles into the south end of Lady Evelyn. As a result,  Diamond Lake’s water level rose a few feet and a cabin or two was probably flooded. As well, some pictographs at the site just south of the lake’s outlet were submerged, as was a pictograph site just below the lake’s outlet at Lady Evelyn Falls. Theriault does mention this flooding in her memoir through placing it in the 1930s is problematic since there is no record of a dam before the early 1940s. By then she was no longer staying at Diamond Lake at the cabin her first husband had built in the early 30s. See here for her account from Moose to Mocassins.]

So, the Lady Evelyn flooding was real; it just did not happen in Wendaban’s time.  Without a doubt, Theriault’s occasional retelling of the Wendaban flood story would have evoked the indignation,  disgust, and sympathy it was meant to. This may also be why Conway includes it in his account of Wendaban’s life and perhaps embellishes it even more.

A 2004 document – Temagami First Nation Report On Water Management Planning For the Montreal and Matachewan Rivers – includes a testimonial statement attributed to Theriault.  She had died in 2000; the testimonial is borrowed from an earlier report. It does provide  an account that sounds more factual than the one above:

Madeleine Theriault testimony on the Wendaban Cabin

In this account, the cabin is untouched until the 1925-1926 flooding. This explains why it appears on the 1900 map above. Still, some details seem off.  She notes, for example,  that she “could recall waking up in the morning to find water rising out of the floor of the cabin”.  This would imply that she was living in the cabin in 1925-1926 when the flooding occurred! She was 17 at the time and still living with her grandparents on Bear Island.

The detail about the compensation for the lost cabin – if it is indeed her statement and not an editorial comment added by whoever included her “testimonial” in the report – is also notable. Given that it is the “white man” who gets the compensation, it is easy to understand the point being made!

All of the above is proof that uncritical acceptance of accounts of the past told by those who draw them from their pliable and unreliable memories can lead to problems with the actual facts.

Day 11 – From Mattawapika Is. CS To The Dam and Down To Mowat Landing

  • distance: 9.4 km
  • time: 8:15 start – 9:25 (at dam) – 9:50 (portage done) – 10:05 (Mowat Landing)
  • portages/rapids:  1/0; around Madawaska Dam
  • weather: cool (1ºC when we got up) but gloriously sunny – the sunniest day so far!
  • Maps: NRC 1:50,000 – 041 P 08_Lady Evelyn Lake; 031 M 05 _ Cobalt

We got up to a beautiful morning at the east end of Lady Evelyn Lake. The sky was blue, the mist was rising off the lake, and the temperature was about 4ºC, which didn’t feel so bad thanks to that sun.

dawn mist on lady Evelyn lake

dawn mist – take 2 – on Lady Evelyn Lake

approaching the top of the Mattawapika Dam

We were on our way by 8:15 and by 9:25 had paddled the seven kilometers to the top of the Mattawapika Dam.  One taxi boat, presumably with clients from one or more of the fishing lodges on the lake,  passed us by but that was about it for traffic. Once at the dam, we were directed from the motorboat launch to the canoers’ take-out spot, which knocked 30 meters or so off our eventual 275-meter portage.

Mattawapika dam – satellite view – canoe portage route

When we got to the landing we met a couple of other canoe parties. Two guys were just setting off for their annual visit to Maple Mountain.  They wanted to know how bad we had found Lady Evelyn, thanks to its reputation as a tough slog when the prevailing winds from the SW or NW kick in. We told them things were looking good.

The other group was, like us, exiting and heading to vehicles parked at Mowat Landing. Unlike us, they had spent the two previous days rain-bound at a campsite on Lady Evelyn Lake.  While they too had intended to paddle to Maple Mountain, the rain had convinced them otherwise.  Meanwhile, we had paddled all the way from the South Channel and Willow Island Lake!

Mattawapika is a transliteration of an Algonquin place name with Mattawa meaning “where the waters meet”. I have not yet found a translation of pika or bika. It could mean something like place. Let me know if you have the answer!

Now I regret not taking the time, after we loaded our canoe and paddled away from the put-in below the dam and across the Montreal River, to frame a shot that would have captured the perspective of this circa 1905 postcard issued by the Grand Trunk Railway!

Mattawapika Falls – postcard issued by the Grand Trunk Railway circa 1905

It is under two kilometers from the bottom of the dam to the public dock at Mowat Landing.  Along the way, we passed White Pine Lodge on the west side of the Montreal River. The red roofs of the lodge’s cabins are visible in the image below – and in the satellite image that follows.

See the  Lodge website for the image source – here

Mowat Landing is named after the Mowat family. It was James Mowat who established a farm on the west side of the Montreal River in the year 1900. The area indicated on the map below is only a 5-acre piece of the original larger farm. His son Charles Mowat (1886-1966) would spend most of his life living there.

Edward F. Mantle wrote up the Mowat family story after a series of conversations with Charles in the late 1950s and early ’60s; while his website is now down, you can read a reformatted pdf file here.  Note: the one glaring absence from Mantle’s Mowat write-up are the Indigenous People who mostly had the land to themselves before 1900.

The website will also give you access to all sorts of interesting biographical info on the early residents and local history of the Latchford/Mowat landing/Elk Lake area.  While I have focussed heavily on the Ojibwa inhabitants who, if Speck is correct, arrived in the area around 1800, the fur traders, prospectors, loggers, and settlers who came somewhat later is something I need to look at to fill out the story.

Mowat Landing area – satellite view of properties

After landing at the public dock, we retrieved our vehicle from Mowat Landing Cottages. As mentioned in the initial post, we had camped on their property after driving up from Toronto; the following morning Lisa drove with us in our vehicle to the put-in off Beauty Lake Road where it crosses the Montreal River and then drove the car back to their Mowat Landing Cottages property. The camp spot by the river ($35.), the shuttle ($250.), and the car parking ($60.) solved all of the logistical problems of a canoe trip that is not a loop.

Temagami’s Lady Evelyn River From Top To Bottom: Route Options, Maps, Shuttle Info, Permits, and More

The planning post has information on two other commercial shuttle possibilities.  Since they start off 70 kilometers further south in Temagami Village or just north of it, they are somewhat more expensive.

Click on the header above to access the Mowat Landing Cottages website – or click here.

It was a gloriously sunny day as we made our way down Highway 11 to southern Ontario. North of North Bay there was already some visible turning in the colour of the leaves but the preponderance of spruce and pine made for a less dramatic show.

For eleven days we had not worried about COVID-19. Now as I stared out of the windshield, I noticed the package of masks on the dashboard, ready for use if we stopped anywhere on the way home.

Some Final Thoughts:

My bro usually does all the word-smithing but I have been asked for a stern report! Here it is.

From the back end (literally) the trip seems to have run smoothly. The Sunday drive from Southern Ontario north was relatively stress-free. While CoVid-19 was/is still an issue we found that northerners (anything north of North Bay – our first stop) were for the most part adhering to public health requirements then in-place re; physical distancing and masks. We kept individual contact to a minimum. While our vehicle is not blessed with a large fuel tank or great range, stops were only required a couple of times, more to ensure that we had enough fuel to get there without having to worry and to minimize contact.

We quickly got sorted as to where we were staying after arriving at the Graydon’s Mowat Landing complex at 4 pm. By 5:30 the tent was up and after a little bit of wandering around the site we settled in for the night. The drive up was non-stressful having left Toronto at 10 a.m. Perhaps being a Sunday had something to do with it. Beats the drive to Wabakimi! Arrangements were made for an 08:30 start the next morning which we missed by about 5 minutes.

The drive was again stress free taking about 90 minutes to the put-in at the Montreal River west of Lady Dufferin Lake. We wondered about the weather though because we had periods of rain and hints of sunshine. After pics and good-byes, we were off upriver by about 10:30.

Having done this section 9 years before it is interesting to note what one remembers or not. I think with the passage of time most of it felt ‘new’. However, coming into Smoothwater Lake and looking along the northeastward shore with its long expanse of sandy beach brought back memories of our previous trip. The weather was off and on sunny and very windy. We could tell from afar that our previous site was occupied and with the wind direction we opted to stay along the south shore aiming for some indicated campsites. While we looked for them we obviously did not do it well enough and our first challenge was crossing Smoothwater against the swells.  We ended up the Marina Lake portage site which was very breezy even though we were well back on the site. It did have mushrooms though! Do fill in the journal that has been placed there (if, when you go it is still there).

Every trip begins with the desire to start and depending on the trip there is a point where you think to yourself – I wish this were done! That would have been day 2. Low water was a challenge for the upper Lady E river. I think Whitemud Lake suffers as well. One takeaway which might soften the work is knowing there will be many log overs, the occasional log under, beaver dams, and wading. We managed to hit it during a cold spell. Warmer weather would probably be better or is that nicer? Bugs would likely make this section less pleasant because speed is not something you can achieve to outrun the pests. Chose your time carefully.

Day to day descriptions are elsewhere in this blog. The trip can be divided into 3 basic sections from above the forks to MacPherson/Katherine Lake, from Katherine down to Willis Island Lake, and then from there to Mowat Landing. The first two are the river coming off the height of land. Each section (and day) had its challenges as noted from day 1. Each challenge was a function of section/location – incessant meandering, lifting wading, weather (rain and wetness) and forward progress. I think on day 4 by the end (arriving at Florence Lake by 3 pm) I was suffering from some mild hypothermia as I could just stay warm with the physical activity. This is something solo paddlers would need to be very mindful of. Into the sleeping bag till next morning – no supper!! After a restful afternoon and night, I was good to go.

While you can take some shortcuts to cut off the lower part of the LE this meandering section is actually quite nice. The current is a help and there were only a few logs/liftovers to impede progress. Be sure you can complete the lower whole section as camping spots to the branch are slim. Below the forks begins the descent section to Willis Island Lake. This had some of the more challenging portages that we have done (age may also be playing a part here) and it provides some of the more spectacular scenery in a series of falls and some rapids. Well worth the price of admission.

Once off of the ‘highlands’ onto the 3rd section – it is all lake paddle. The potential for ill winds and weather is always present. We had cold temperatures and off-and-on rain almost all the way to Mowat Landing. The last day was however the sunniest of the whole trip – glorious sunshine for the 2 hours it took us to get there! Even though mostly lake there are still some interesting sites to watch out for – sunken tree stands (flooding from the dam), finger islands (again a flood feature or remnant). Having a history buff as a paddling partner does help the journey with some context. Knowing those trees have been standing (flooded) for 100 years, paddling over former rapids and family hunting territories all add to the ‘view’.

If  VIA’s “The Canadian” is running next summer, we may take it from Toronto to Savant Lake for a paddle down the top half of the Ogoki River fromEndogoki Lake. If not, we may return to the north end of the Temagami region and the northern branch of the lady Evelyn to complete our Lady Evelyn experience.

A Day-By-Day Account of Our Trip:

The following posts cover the entire river from its South Branch headwaters in Apex Lake to its mouth at the Montreal River.

Temagami’s Lady Evelyn River From Top To Bottom: Intro, Route Options, Maps, Logistics, And a Bit of History

Day 1 – To The Put-In And Up River To Smoothwater Lake

Day 2From Smoothwater Lake To An “It’ll Do” CS  On Lady Evelyn’s South Branch

Day 3 – From Our “It’ll Do” Campsite To Florence Lake

Day 4 – On Florence Lake

Day 5 – From Florence Lake To Just Below The Forks of the Lady Evelyn

Day 6 – From Just Below The Forks to Macpherson Lake Island CS

Day 7 – From Macpherson Lake To The South Channel’s Bridal Veil Falls

Day 8 – From Bridal Veil Falls To The Bottom of the South Channel

Day 9 – From The South Channel To The West End of Lady Evelyn Lake

Posted in Anishinaabek World, Temagami, wilderness canoe tripping | Leave a comment

Temagami’s Lady Evelyn River From Top To Bottom: Day 9 – From the South Channel to Lady Evelyn Lake’s West End

Previous Post: Day 8 – From Bridal Veil Falls To the Bottom of the South Channel

Day 9 – From South Channel to West End of Lady Evelyn Lake

  • distance: 20.5 km.
  • time: 10:30 – 2:30
  • weather: very wet; passing thunderstorm; some torrential downpours.
  • rapids/portages: none; only flat water paddling
  • campsite: an official signed campsite on a point at the west end of Lady Evelyn Lake complete with “thunderbox”.
  • Hunting Grounds: those of Wendaban (#24 on Speck’s map from 1913) from Willow Island Lake all the way to the Montreal River. Wendaban died in the early 1890s.
  • Maps: NRC 1:50,000 – 041 P 01_Obabika Lake;  041 P 08_Lady Evelyn Lake.

Note: Start with the bottom map!

The evening before we had accessed the weather forecast for the day with our Garmin inReach Explorer+ device.  Some 60 mm. of rain were predicted!

It was raining when we woke up at our customary 6:45 so we ended up sleeping in a bit longer. By 8:30,  the pitter-patter on the tarp over our tent had stopped.  We decided the day would not be a rain day, that we’d move on even if it was only ten or fifteen kilometers north on Willow Island Lake. The first task was to pack away the contents of the tent – i.e. the sleeping bags, Thermarest pads, spare clothing, and all of our other absolutely- cannot-get-wet stuff.  It all goes into the 75-liter Watershed Colorado duffel. It has done the job for the past eight years – never had an issue. One admission – after our first trip, we decided that to prevent possible punctures we would “baby” the bag by putting it inside a rugged MEC ballistic nylon duffel bag. That way we could toss it ashore or drop it on the side of a portage trail without worry. The MEC bag’s extra 2.2 lbs are worth the peace of mind!

While Max took down the tent, I went down to the canoe and the tarp we had set up above it and got the breakfast going. First, I retrieved the food bags from where we had put them the night before – about fifty meters away from our tent near the shore. It has been years since we have bothered to hang our food bag, a change we made when paddling Wabakimi in NW Ontario, where black spruce is just not made for the hanging routine.

Back under the tarp and with the canoe as a tabletop,  I  got out the butane canister and screw-on stovetop to boil 1.5  liters of water, which had already been filtered with a Platypus 4-liter Gravity Works filtration system. We also make use of a Steripen Adventurer water purifier which uses UV rays to treat the water. While the water was on the way to boiling,  I got out the packages of oatmeal mix and ground coffee from the food bag; bowls, spoons, and coffee cups, and coffee filters came out of that red bag you see sitting on the canoe. By the time Max had stuffed away all the tent parts into various sacks, breakfast was ready.

There I sit with my coffee mug to my side;  I had just been looking at David Crawshay’s Topo Canada app on my iPhone to get a sense of how far we might get this day, hoping to paddle in between heavy downpours and through light sprinkles of rain.

sitting under the tarp on a cool wet morning on the Lady Evelyn’s South Channel

Everything we have – except for our life jackets and paddles – goes into four bags – our two 115-liter portage packs and two large size duffels. Before we put them in the canoe, we slipped each one into a construction-grade XL garbage bag we bring along for wet days like this.

some of the vertical rock at the south end of Willow Island Lake

As you paddle down the narrow channel from South Channel to Willow Island Lake there is some eye-catching vertical rock.  Our eyes were especially drawn to a detached vertical slab at the right end of the rock you see in the image above. It reminded us of the so-called Conjurer’s Rock at the east end of Chee-skon Lake, said to be a sacred site to the traditional Temagami Ojibwe because the shape reminded them of the shaking tent. The “tent” is an enclosed cylindrical structure about 2 meters high with an open top and was used by their shamans to connect with the spirit world and receive guidance and medicine.

a Norval Morrisseau drawing of Mikinak, the turtle messenger for the manitos, approaching the shaman’s shaking tent

Lately, I’ve become somewhat skeptical of this Chee-skon stone “pillar” as “shaking tent” interpretation and think it may just be the result of some overly-enthusiastic non-Indigenous person intending to bolster Temagami First Nation land claim arguments by creating “sacred” spots around the Lake Temagami area. Of course, I may be wrong and am always open to evidence to the contrary.

a rock slab broken off from the rest of the rock face

As the map of the Temagami area drawn up in 1913 by the American anthropologist F.G. Speck shows, we were now paddling in the mid-to-late 1880s hunting grounds connected with Wendaban.  Around 1840 or 1850 his father had split his hunting grounds into two –

  • 27 for one son – Ke’kek- and
  • 24 for his other son, Wendaban.

Then, when a fellow Ojibwe named Misabi came up to Temagami, apparently from the Lake Nipissing area, and married Ke’kek’s daughter, Ke’kek gave the southern part of his hunting grounds to Misabi –  i.e. 27a.  Since Florence Lake, we had been paddling in the hunting grounds associated with Misabi. For the rest of our trip, we’d be in Wendaban’s mid-to-late 1880s territory. (Wendaban died in 1894.)

Wendaban kept a cabin and a small garden at the north end of what is now the south arm of  Lady Evelyn Lake. With our 1905 pre-flooding map as a guide, we hoped – maybe even on this day – to come close to the site where the cabin would have stood before the dam changed the shoreline.

See here for the entire Temagami hunting ground map, now used by the Temagami First nation as the map of their claimed homeland, Ndaki Menan

The Boundaries of Lady Evelyn-Smoothwater Park:

Now that we had slipped into Willow Island Lake,  we were no longer in Lady Evelyn-Smoothwater Park!  We were also in a space not categorized as “wilderness” so we could expect fishermen in motorboats from here on all the way across Lady Evelyn.

This is not to say that motorized boats are prohibited within the park:

  • At the west end of the park, motorboat traffic is allowed all the way up to and including Smoothwater Lake from the Beauty Lake Road put-in.
  • In the South Channel,  motorboats are allowed all the way up to the first set of rapids.

The evening before we had seen some fishermen in a boat just a bit east of our campsite and wondered what they were doing there.  It turns out they had every right to be there! A wilderness park with motorboat privileges!

Willow Island Lake, Sucker Gut Lake, and the once-main section (but now just the south arm) of Lady Evelyn Lake all belong to Obabika River Waterway Provincial Park, created in 1989 and enlarged a few years later. Since Lady Evelyn empties into the Montreal River, it does seem odd to include it in a park whose waters end up in the Sturgeon River and then Lake Nipissing!

As we headed north on Willow Island Lake, we passed by a group of six canoe trippers.  They came out of the woods and to the edge of their elevated campsite and we exchanged some comments about the weather and their decision to stay off the water this day. We all agreed that stay or go, the Temagami we were experiencing made for an excellent character-building exercise. While it wasn’t raining as we had our brief chat,  within two or three kilometers of our encounter, we had to get off the water.  We had heard the sound of approaching thunder and pulled ashore and hunkered down for about 30 minutes while the storm passed through.

The Way Things Used To Be:

It is about 15 kilometers from the south end of Willow Island Lake to the point where Sucker Gut Lake becomes Lady Evelyn Lake.  In spite of our half-hour stop, we made good time since it never really rained hard while we were paddling and the wind, such as it was, was blowing from the south.  By 2 we were around the corner and heading east on Lady Evelyn Lake and by 3 our tent was up.

Sucker Gut lake and the clear view of Maple Mountain Ridge

Along the way, we got to see again the charred trunks of the pines standing like mute sentinels in the section of Sucker Gut Lake that stretches westward towards Maple Mountain Ridge. The arrow on the map above shows the spot where we looked west towards the Maple Mountain Ridge; had it not been for the cloud cover and rain we would have seen again the view in the photo below.

view of Maple Mountain ridge from Sucker Gut Lake – blue sky image is from a previous trip

On two other occasions, we have paddled that bay to access Hobart Lake and one of our all-time favourite campsites. However,  the weather had soured us on a visit to Maple Mountain this time. We looked west towards the ridge –  but paddled north!

On our first visit, we had no idea that the Sucker Gut area had been flooded with the completion in 1925 of a dam at Mattawapika Falls, which was where the Lady Evelyn tumbled into the Montreal River. The dam raised water levels on the enlarged lake behind it by 5 meters. It replaced a smaller dam that had been constructed in 1915,

The 1907 map below – drawn 8 years before the first Mattawapika Dam was completed – shows just how much the flooding altered the landscape – and waterscape – of the area we were paddling on this day. The next day’s route would show an even more extensive change to the pre-flooding terrain.

Access the entire map here

  • Thanks to the flooding, it looks like a new lake – Sucker Gut Lake – was created in the area south of Emily (now Hobart) Lake and north of Chris Willis Lake.
  • The flooding also completely covered up Willow Island Falls (5’/1.5m) at the bottom (i.e.north) end of Willow Island Lake.
  • A 3/4 mile (1200 m) portage into Hobart Lake is indicated on the map. I wonder how often it has been walked in the past 100 years!

the northwest end of Lady Evelyn Lake

We did not take many photos this wet day.  We were intent on just moving forward and putting in some kilometers before the predicted big(ger) rains came in mid-afternoon.  We almost succeeded. The rain picked again just as we pulled into a signed campsite on the north side of Lady Evelyn Lake.

The satellite image above shows the spot. [ The faint white lines  also indicate some private properties  (one to the NW of our site and two across from our campsite)  and of the Garden Island Lodge to the east.]

a view from the water  of our campsite on the point – Lady Evelyn Lake

The site is located on the flat top of a  sandy spit that juts out into the lake. We found signs of use by fishing groups staying at one of the fishing lodges or private cottages/camps on the lake. Three plywood fish-gutting tables, beer cans, and an assortment of other garbage. This site, and the one we stayed at the next night, were the two messiest of the 10 we stayed at.  Often we just paddle on when we come to a messy site like this.

This time we stayed. The site is fairly close to the location of the Indian House indicated on the 1907 map above.  The next post goes into more detail.

a view of the front of the campsite on the point

After the wind convinced us that putting up a tarp close to the end of the point was not a good idea, we headed in a bit and found a more sheltered spot. With the tarp up in the rain, the tent was next. Meanwhile, the various packs and duffels were underneath our second tarp.  A half-hour later that tarp was also up and we were working on having a lunch that we had let slip by in our failed bid to beat the big rain to a campsite.

While we waited for the water to boil we snacked on Pringle’s remnants and sipped on Gatorade. It was a wet afternoon that stretched into the evening but we had managed that delicate canoe tripper’s balance – moving forward while staying dry!

Pringles pieces looking a lot like corn flakes – pre-supper snack

Next Post: The Lady Evelyn River From Top To Bottom: Days 10 and 11 – From the West End of Lady Evelyn Lake To Mowat Landing

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Temagami’s Lady Evelyn River From Top to Bottom: Day 8 – From Bridal Veil Falls To The Bottom of The South Channel

Previous Post: Day 7 – From Macpherson Lake To the South Channel’s Bridal Veil Falls

Day 8  –  Lady Evelyn’s South Channel from Bridal Veil Falls To The Bottom

  • distance: 9.7 km.
  • time: 9:15 to 1:15
  • portages/rapids: finished the Bridal Veil portage – challenging; lined and ran the three sets of rapids described by Wilson as Rapid #15; portaged river left around Fatman’s Falls; three sets of CI rapids below Fatman’s easily dealt with
  • weather: cool and sunny
  • campsite: river left (north) side of the South Channel – a sheltered spot at the top of a spacious  gently sloped stretch of a rock outcrop

There had been a bit of rain overnight but things were clear when we got up this morning.  Thanks to our campsite close to the smaller side falls,  we had used the earplugs to deaden the sound of the falls somewhat. As invigorating as it is to sit by a dramatic waterfall and take in the energy, a point is reached where it begins to sound like a toilet on permanent flush!

The first part of the portage – from the take out spot to the campsite – had mostly been on a flat woodland trail.  From the campsite to the put-in at the bottom, the trail becomes more difficult. Wet moss and lichen on the sloped rockface do not make for a solid footing!  A couple of slips while carrying a pack and duffel and then the canoe down to the end resulted in a left quad strain and my right knee not just bashed but gashed.

Bridal Veil Falls from the put-in below

Once down at the bottom we got some great views of the entire falls – the main falls to the left and the side falls next to which the campsite is located.

Lady Evelyn South Channel – below Bridal Veil Falls

Just below the put-in, we paddled past the gravel deposit as the river bends to the south, the deposit a reminder of the not-too-distant glacier past of 10,000  to 12,000 years ago. It would take thousands of years more before enough soil was formed to support the vegetation which would draw the animals which would draw the mid-to-late-Archaic Period (8000 B.C.E. – 1000 B.C.E.) hunter/gatherers up to what must have been until then barren grounds. Still in the future was the arrival of a Woodlands culture like the Algonquin or the Ojibwe, two Indigenous peoples belonging to the Anishinaabe language family.

Bridal Veil Falls and the gravel banks below on the Lady Evelyn’s south channel

We look at our canoe trips in a number of different ways. The overriding one focusses on the sheer good fortune we have to be able to be out there – fit enough, rich enough, commitment-free enough, skilled (just) enough to be able to make our way down and across beautiful slices of the Canadian Shield that few get to experience. Every day is a “wow” as we paddle into new vistas. To some,  it may all seem like the same photo but to us, it is always special.

looking back at the gravel banks below Bridal Veil Falls on the Lady Evelyn River

On the opposite end of the scale,  there is another view we take, a more practical one. We see each day on the water as a series of problems we need to solve.  They range from easy to difficult and we know that we have probably faced something very similar on a previous trip and were able to figure it out.

The biggest problems usually involve rapids or portages, though sometimes the weather – temperature, wind, rain, and lightning  – create problems too. With respect to “problems”, we try to gather as much info as possible before the trip so that we have a better idea of what it is we will face. Drawing on information and advice from reliable sources only makes our eventual responses that much more likely to be correct.

Wilson’s Temptation Alley – Rapids #15 on the Lady Evelyn’s South Channel

Coming up soon after the eye-catching gravel banks lining the shore was a one-kilometer stretch of river which Hap Wilson labels as  Rapid #15 (rated CII to CIII). The various sets of rapids that make up #15 are given the nickname “Temptation Alley” in his Temagami guidebook, an essential source for anyone paddling Temagami’s lakes and rivers. He describes it as “a classic boulder bash with three separate runs”. We focussed on the comment that “all can be lined in the summer”.

So – we had the two following solutions to our “problem”:

  • a 900-meter good portage on river left  or
  • a line & run job down three sets of rapids in shallow late-season water

Anything to save time and energy, eh? An hour and a half later of non-stop hopping from rock to rock and hauling our less-than-willing canoe downriver, we were at the bottom of “Temptation Alley”.  The Lord’s Prayer says “Lead us not into Temptation…”  We had made the wrong choice!  In our case,  “can be lined” did not equal “bros, go ahead and line it”, especially in mid-September! Live and learn…and remember the next time!

Pics of our pretty intense workout are scarce! Once or twice,  one of us observed that we maybe were getting too old for this! (Note: we have since reconsidered this rash assessment made under duress!)

Here is the only pic we took: it was taken from the bottom of a rough section between the first two wider and round river sections you see on the bottom of the above satellite image. It took us a head-shaking half-hour to move the less-than-100-meters between the two!

the bottom of a boulder garden stretch of too-shallow Lady Evelyn

We did eventually get to the end, rueing our decision to stay with the river instead of doing the portage, which would have taken less than an hour and been much less stressful.  Apparently, the trail is a good one so it would not have been a repeat of the portage above Bridal Veil or the last section of the Bridal Veil trail itself.

And then – boom! the next “problem”! – Fatman’s Falls. Well,  no choice here – we pulled in at the top of the falls and got ready to carry gear and canoe to the other end of the trail, parts of which were actually walkable.  It is only a 100-meter carry so how bad can it be!

Fatman’s Falls on the Lady Evelyn

looking down the Lady Evelyn below Fatman’s Falls

It is the last stretch of the portage trail, the section that takes you down quite steeply to the shore and the put-in, that we will not forget. However, in hauling the packs I somehow missed the new and somewhat more gentle path down to the water and ended up going down via the legendary Fatman’s Squeeze.

coming through Fatman’s Squeeze on the Lady Evelyn’s South Branch

I stood there at the end of the Squeeze and looked down the 45º slope to the put-in and inhaled deeply. While coming through the Squeeze with a canoe and then walking it down to the shore was never on my non-existent bucket list,  I figured the photo op was too good to pass up.

The rest of the video is down below!

portage trail from Fatman’s Squeeze to the water –

In the image above the last bit of the trail goes down a pile of jagged rock rubble diagonally from the Squeeze on the middle right to the water. Click on the image to access the white arrow pointing to the exact location of the gap you come through before doing the descent.

Max played videographer!  He was using my camera, one he was not familiar with – and my suggestion to use the viewfinder just confused him since he has always just used the LCD screen.  However, he did recover and shoot the rest of the descent – a less-than-graceful carry in which both ends of the canoe took a few bumps as I made my way down the steep and uneven slope.

The image below, taken a few minutes later, shows the same bit of trail from the bottom up.

Max sitting at the bottom of the last few meters of the Fatman Falls portage

Fatman’s Falls panorama

The Falls on the left and the final section of the portage trail to the right – our last look at Fatman’s before we continued our way down the Lady Evelyn.

one last view of Fatman Falls and the steep trail down to the water

Below Fatman’s Falls is another short set of rapids – #16 in the Wilson Guidebook. We lined the ledge at the top and then did a mix of lining and running the rest in shallow water. [The Chrismar map indicates a 290-meter portage on river left.]

Two more sets of rapids – both CI and easily run with some water.  We spent a couple of minutes at each examining the boulder arrangement and looking for the best channel to go down.

From Down River To Flat Water Paddling!

And with that, the down part of our Lady Evelyn River experience was over!  From now on we would be on flat water (about 289 meters a.s.l.) all the way to Mattawapika Dam some 40 kilometers to the east! Apex lake, the river’s headwaters, sits at 389 m a.s.l. – so from top to bottom, the river makes a 100-meter drop.

at the bottom of Lady Evelyn’s South Channel

Of that, 50% of the drop happens from Katherine Lake (341 m)  down either of the two channels to Willow Island or Sucker Gut Lakes, whose water level is the same as Lady Evelyn Lake thanks to the impact of the Mattawapika Dam.

We would start to see reminders of that impact.  In years past we had seen similar dead tree trunks in Sucker Gut Lake on our way to Maple Mountain. At the time,  we didn’t even know how they had come to be like that!  Here we were at the end of the South Channel where it soon becomes Willow Island Lake and we were seeing the same thing.

reminders of the great flooding caused by the Mattawapika Dam in 1925

We paddled almost to the end of the South Channel before stopping at a spacious south-facing campsite around 1:00 p.m. Before we did anything else, we had lunch. Then we strung a line between a couple of trees and put out our gear to catch the wind and occasional rays of the sun; the previous day had been a wet one.

designated campsite near the end of Lady Evelyn’s South Channel

the front yard of our Lady Evelyn South Channel campsite

I also had some time to continue my quest for the blue mushroom, the Lactarius indigo. Thanks to the day’s slips and falls I found I could not even bend down completely to frame my macro shots the way I wanted. Luckily the camera’s LCD screen is hinged so I was able to compensate.

the mushroom quest continued – Day 8 and still no blue mushroom!

By 8:00 it was all but dark but for a while before that, we enjoyed the sun’s fading presence as it slipped down in the western sky.

a Temagami sunset on the Lady Evelyn River (South Channel)

Along with my leg aches and pains, I had somehow come down with whatever had ailed Max five days previously – some sort of digestive upset that had me leaving the tent four or five times during the night for a visit to the box you see below.

I considered Giardiasis or “beaver fever” as the cause of the symptoms I was experiencing but the fact that the next day I was feeling much better – just as Max had the day after his bout of whatever – seems to eliminate that as an explanation.

the thunderbox behind our tent on Lady Evelyn south channel campsite

Our weather app and the emails from home were telling us that the next day would be a very wet day in Temagami. We had a new “problem”: did we stay put the next day as the incoming weather system did its thing – or did we keep on going?

Next Post: Day 9 – From The Lady Evelyn River’s South Channel to the West End of Lady Evelyn Lake

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Temagami’s Lady Evelyn River From Top To Bottom: Day 7 – From Macpherson Lake Island Camp To Bridal Veil Falls

Previous Post: Day 6 – From Just Below The Forks To Macpherson Lake

Day 7 – Down The South Channel To Bridal Veil Falls

  • Distance: 10.7 km.
  • Time: 9:30 to 3:50
  • Portages/Rapids: portaged all except the second set coming into Stonehenge Lake and the first set on the South Channel
  • Weather: same old same old: coolish; overcast; massive 45-min. downpour on south channel portage; hints of sun in the evening.
  • Campsite: Bridal Veil Falls – very scenic and, thanks to the Falls, somewhat noisy! Perhaps room for 2 or 3  2-P tents, 1 good 4-P tent spot; portage trail goes through the campsite. no toilet box located.

A late start this day with a change of plans. Given the weather – overcast with definite rain coming our way – the idea of portaging up into Dry Lake and checking out the viewpoint at the SW corner of the lake was scrapped, as was making use of the one campsite on the lake. Instead, we figured we’d start our descent of the Lady Evelyn’s South Channel instead.

a view of our “good enough” Macpherson island campsite

At the bottom of Macpherson Lake is a short 70-meter boney set of rapids, and a late-season boulder garden impossible to float down.  [In the Wilson guidebook it seems to be his Rapid #7 – a CII whose “character varies greatly with flow”. He gives it the name “Twist & Shout”.]

set of rapids leaving Macpherson Lake

We stuck to river left and spent ten minutes lining down to a spot where we could hop back in. Here is a shot looking back up at those rapids. It has Max is getting comfortable after setting his Etrex 20 set for the next waypoint!

looking back at the set of rapids at the bottom of Macpherson Lake

Below Macpherson Lake is Stonehenge Lake – and leading into Stonehenge are a couple of rapids, the first of which we lined on river right; they are followed by a middle section which we floated down. We then just continued floating down the bottom set.  It was a bumpy ride!   See the satellite image below for a better idea of the situation.

rapids above Stonehenge Lake on the Lady Evelyn River

According to our GPS track, we spent about fifteen minutes getting down and into Stonehenge.  [In the Wilson guidebook these two rapids are #8 (CI-T) and #9 (CI line or run).]   The 2020 mid-September water level was not optimal!

looking back at the first set of rapids coming into Stonehenge Lake – we lined on river right – i.e. the left side of the image

The area between Stonehenge Lake and Katherine Lake apparently features some pretty nice campsites and – on a sunny July day – sounds like a nice spot to ramble up and down the river with a camera.  Rapids, swifts, waterfalls – a veritable Shangri La! However, a Shangri La campsite would have to be shelved for another possible trip – one coming down the North Branch from Gamble Lake.

We had already caught a few raindrops and more were definitely on the way.  So this time we embraced the 800-meter carry that would take us from Stonehenge into Katherine and a campsite not far down the South Channel. There are two portages indicated; one stays with the river while the other one – the one we were on – veers away from the river.  

Stonehenge to Katherine portage

from Stonehenge to Katherine

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The first twenty or thirty meters of the trail goes through a wetlands area and was somewhat mushy on our trip through thanks to the rain of the past few days. From there it changes into a series of connected gently sloped rock outcrops. Patches of slippery moss made things interesting.

After crossing a  dry boulder river bed, the last half is a beautiful woodland trail and our pace picked up noticeably!.  Also noticeable was the sun which came out for a half-hour as we were nearing the end of the portage.   We absorbed some sun rays as we sipped on Gatorade and munched an energy bar at the end of it – an hour and a quarter workout.  It was 11:30 and instead of stopping for lunch in the next hour, we decided to paddle until we came to a decent campsite on the South Channel. 

It is a 2.5-kilometer paddle from the portage put-in at the top of Katherine Lake down to the bottom. That is where the lake – once with the more appropriate name of Divide Lake– has two outlets: the North Channel and the South Channel. Both have three dramatic waterfalls and some rough portages.

  • North Channel: Helen Falls; Center Falls; Frank’s Falls
  • South Channel: Cabin Falls; Bridal Veil Falls; Fatman’s Falls

We headed down the South Channel from Katherine Lake.  First up is a set of CI-T rapids (Rapids #13 in the Wilson guidebook) down which we zig-zagged our way. The other option is to line on river right.

Below Katherine Lake – first two sets of rapids

Next up was an unavoidable  240-meter portage on river left not far below the rapids. Just as we pulled in to the top of the portage, we heard thunder and got off the river quickly. We slipped the packs and duffels into their XL-size construction-grade garbage bags, grabbed the tarp, and headed into the bush just off the bouldery shore. It rained gently at first and then –  just after we had gotten the tarp up and made ourselves comfortable – we listened to a torrential downpour come down on our tarp.  

Forty-five minutes later the thunder had moved on and the rain had stopped. We now got to do the carry on a very wet and slippery trail. 

the view from the take-out spot first portage on the Lady Evelyn’s South Channel

We approached Cabin Falls within ten minutes of putting in and were faced with another carry on river left – 300 meters.  We did see the canoes on the other side of the river at the top end of a portage trail that passes through the private property indicated by the faint white line on the satellite image below.  The property belongs to Hap Wilson and is the site of his Ecolodge, a complex consisting of the main lodge and a couple of guest cabins. 

The portage is pretty rough in parts and the just-ended rain did not help matters. The rock slope you see in the image below was the top of the final stretch down to the put-in below the 9-meter-high falls.  

the put-in at the end of the Cabin Falls portage on river left

our canoe loaded and ready to go at the bottom of Cabin Falls

looking back at the put-in of the  Cabin Falls portage

Once back in the canoe we looked back at the falls.  Invisible in the trees on top of the falls is the cabin, originally built in 1931. Wilson’s The Cabin is his 2009 autobiographical look at his life-long obsession with building a personal refuge and how he came to be the owner of what must be the only piece of legal private property in Lady Evelyn-Smoothwater Wilderness Park. 

The red dot just below and to the right of center in the image below is the Canadian flag flying in front of it. We never did get a real good shot of THE cabin or any of the other buildings that have since gone up as Wilson created his Ecolodge.

Cabin Falls Lady Evelyn River South Channel

panorama of Cabin Falls

Less than two kilometers below Cabin Falls is the next scenic highlight of the Lady Evelyn’s South Channel – Bridal Veil Falls. It would also be where we stopped this day. We made use of the campsite on the side of the portage trail twenty meters from where a side stream begins a series of tumbles down to the bottom.

From Cabin Falls to Bridal Veil Falls

The portage trail from the take-out spot to the campsite is actually quite walkable, with only one section of sloped rock outcrop just before the campsite which was a bit slippery thanks to the rain. One thing we did not find at this site was a thunderbox. 

Bridal Veil Falls -a view from the  campsite at the top

Expecting more rain, we put up both tarps, one over the tent and the other across the portage trail where we set up our eating/sitting area.  In the late afternoon, the sun peeked out for a while. As we looked across at the main falls, we could see how the multiple drops would lead someone to name them the Bridal Veil. Closer to us was a side falls,  whose water tumbled over a couple of ledges before rejoining the main stream in the pool below. The next morning as we paddled out from the put-in we’d get another memorable perspective. 

Next Post: Day 8 – From Bridal Veil Falls To the Bottom of the South Channel

 

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Temagami’s Lady Evelyn River From Top to Bottom: Day 6 – From Below the Forks to Macpherson Lake

Previous Post: Day 5 – From Florence Lake To The Forks (And A Bit Beyond)

Day 6 – To Macpherson Lake

The Lady Evelyn River – From the Forks To Macpherson Lake

  • distance: 9.1 km
  • time: 9:30 a.m to 3:50 p.m.
  • portages/rapids:  6/6 – lined 3?
  • Note: Rapid #s taken from Wilson’s essential Temagami guidebook – see here
  • weather: some sunny moments but mostly cloudy and overcast, cool
  • campsite: island, reasonably sheltered, room for a 2-3  x 2/3p tent plus perhaps 1 or 2 x 4p tents.

We left our campsite on the point by the falls around 9:20.   After we put in on the other side of the 40-meter portage, we figured that this day would be spent dealing with ten sets of rapids/portages.

Our goal was not very ambitious; the Shangri-La campsite just above Katherine Lake sounded like a nice spot to spend some time. If we felt really keen the next morning the thought was to portage up into Dry Lake and paddle to the viewpoint on the SW corner of the lake. But all that was in the future – first up, the set of rapids around the corner from our campsite!

We had decided to line and run this one (option 3), thus avoiding the portage, which would have required paddling over to river left and then taking the side trail (2) to join the main one.

a view of the bottom of the falls that the river right 40-m portage goes around

another view from below the falls  – CS on RR

After our put-in at the bottom of the falls,  it took us about 25 minutes to get to the bottom of the next set of rapids (labeled Rapid #3 on the Wilson map below and given the nickname CII Subway).  Slipping into some swifts we were soon down to the stretch of the river to the top of Rapids #3 where it closes in for about 70 meters. This time the line/run option turned out to be the right one.

Next, we were faced with a dry bouldery river bed on both sides of a river with not enough water to line the canoe.  The panorama and satellite images below give you an idea of the scene.

an iPhone SE panorama of  a Lady Evelyn bouldery set of rapids

In the sat image below – taken when the water level was somewhat higher – you can see the boulder-lined shore above the rapids labeled #4 in Wilson’s Temagami guidebook. We ended up carrying gear and canoe for about 100 meters over the bouldery shore on river right to get around the worst of it. Wilson describes Rapid #4 as a Technical CII and gives it the name Out of Sight.

LADY EVELYN RIVER – RAPIDS #4 AND #5 (FROM WILSON’S TEMAGAMI GUIDEBOOK)

Once below Rapids #4, we were in the water pictured in the image below.  On river left just below the end of it is a campsite. It was an easy float down to the next set of rapids – #5 in the Wilson count. He rated it a CI – top only! and gave it the name Noway!

looking back towards the field of dry river bed section from the small lake below Rapids #4

We lined our way down  the rapids on river right  though there is also a 125-meter portage trail on the same side that we did not see. The image below is a look back up those rapids as we paddled away.

at the bottom of Rapids #5 on the Lady Evelyn below the Forks

Coming right up –  Rapid #6.  Wilson includes the note “Technical C1 Curveball”. We were three sets of rapids from Macpherson Lake.

Lady Evelyn River -Rapids – satellite view

We were happy to float right through this one in less than a minute, thus eliminating the effort that lining or the portage on river right (a 125-meter carry) would have required. No retrospective photo of the bottom ledge that we had scraped over!

“Two to go – let’s git ‘er dun!” We figured we’d stop for lunch on Macpherson before pushing on to Shangri-La.

Chutes – DO NOT RUN!  P RR 155m

We were a bit fuzzy on the next one, not really having given the trip notes enough of a read beforehand. We were moving along nicely and passed through some swifts as we rounded the slight bend.  That’s when we saw – coming up too soon! – a narrowing boulder-strewn channel with a visible drop! From our middle-of-the-river position, we made a clumsy move to river right, grazing a boulder in a bad attempt to slip into what looked like a floatable bit of water down.  Given how bouldery the whole thing was we were kidding ourselves.

Chute on the Lady Evelyn above Macpherson Lake

Note: there is a 150-meter portage trail on river right!  We should have gotten out and taken a look before proceeding.

Rapids/Falls #6 below the Forks – one up from the Machpeerson Chutes

Seconds later we were standing in waist-high water below the falls, our canoe having tipped and taken on water, and the dislodged packs  floating down on river left. Whoa! An invigorating cold shower that forces you to take stock and think fast! We had paid the price for our sloppy approach and decision to just float down without first scouting.

With the canoe emptied of water and floating again, we had an immediate problem. No paddles! I snapped part of a skinny pine trunk into a 1-meter paddle; Max eyed another one and set about sawing it off.

Now armed with a couple of “paddles” we set off downriver to collect our packs and duffels. The photo above has them floating on river left. Within ten minutes we had amazingly recouped them all. While the two Hooligan packs (essentially the Made In China version of the Ostrom Wabakimi packs) had taken on water, the inside liner bags had done their job. Given their 18 to 20 kilogram weight we were just glad they had not sunk! The two duffels were also retrieved – and so was one paddle that we found floating nearby.  Things were definitely looking up.

I took the following shot as we paddled back up the rapids in search of a paddle or two!  After we had gotten all the bags back in the canoe, we paddled up the shore on river right. When we couldn’t go any further, I hopped out and walked up closer to the falls looking for our two missing paddles. A gleam on a short straight piece of something yellow/brown in the pool below the falls on the other side of the river had me thinking it was one of our paddles sticking out.

We were now on our way back to get it!

a view from below the rapids:mini-falls we capsized in

It turns out that it hadn’t been the paddle after all, just the sun catching a barkless tree branch. You can see it just below Max’s boots. However, right there not far from what had drawn my eye was a paddle. And stuck in the middle of the falls up top was the other one!

our paddles in the rapids above Macpherson Lake

Now that we had two paddles again, we continued downriver, thankful to have escaped mostly unscathed, even if a bit wet, from our dumb lapse in judgment. Except for our third paddle – which we perhaps should have made an effort to retrieve – we hadn’t lost anything. Even the map case, its yellow top peeking 6 cm. out of the water was spotted and scooped up.

It is funny how, in spite of paddling a few thousand kilometers, it is the capsizes you remember most vividly! Our last major dunk had been on the Bloodvein River some six years before.  It was almost forty years ago but I can still hear Cyril’s laugh as we tanked that 17′ Grumman going down Graveyard Rapids on the Spanish River.

No more pix this day after we left our dunking scene!

We did the river right Macpherson Chutes portage and then kept on paddling.  Macpherson is a long narrow lake, a little under four km from top to bottom. Now we were in campsite search mode; we wanted to take advantage of the mid-afternoon wind and let our stuff dry out a bit.

After scanning the river left shore for something, we referred to the Chrismar map and turned back to the island CS indicated. We found there an okay site that even had a thunderbox. As with all the other official sites we had so far used, this was was very tidy. Props to those who stayed there before us and the Park crew who may have come through on a clean-up run!

Next Post: Day 7 – From Macpherson Lake To Bridal Veil Falls

 

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Temagami’s Lady Evelyn River From Top to Bottom: Day 5 – From Florence Lake To The Forks

Previous Post: Day 4 – On Florence Lake

Day 5 – From Florence Lake to The Forks and a Bit Beyond

  • distance: 32.2 km
  • time: 8:55 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.
  • hunting grounds:  those of Misabi in the mid-to-late1800s thanks to his marriage to Ke’kek’s daughter. 
  • portages/rapids: 1/1 – 320m  – a few logs and at least 3 beaver dams
  • weather: cool but mostly sun with a bit of cloud;  our nicest day so far
  • campsite: just off the trail on the short 30 m carry across P2 on the LE main branch (see the map at the end of the post for more detail)
  • maps: Ottertooth Florence Lake; NRC 1:50.000 topo 041 P 07  Smoothwater Lake; 041 P 02  Pilgrim Creek; 041 P 08 Lady Evelyn Lake.


We were up early and ready to shift back into paddling mode after a rest day where the only thing we did was climb up to the viewpoint 80 meters above the lake on the sloped rock outcrop to the south of our campsite.  An early morning mist hung over the lake as we looked east at the sun which was just beginning to emerge.

looking southeast from our Florence Lake campsite at dawn

A better day weather-wise day seemed to be in the cards – a nice change from the mostly overcast and cool conditions we had up to then.  The goal for the day was The Forks, the point where the two branches of the Lady Evelyn meet. It would mean about 30 kilometers of paddling.

west side Florence Lake campsite looking NE to Table Rock campsite

Poulnabrone dolmen – County Clare, Ireland

We looked over to the other side of the lake and a campsite with the name Table Rock. The Ottertooth map in map case noted that at the campsite we’d find –

“a dolmen sitting on several small rocks. Possible ancient sacred site with mystery around how or why positioned.”   

Sounded promising!  A dolmen –  defined as a megalithic tomb with a large flat stone laid on upright ones, found chiefly in Britain and France.  I had seen some dolmen structures in Ireland and had them in my mind as we left our campsite, intrigued that something similarly impressive might be seen on this very lake! 

“Table Rock” campsite on Florence Lake

Once at the campsite – a decent fair-weather site that is quite exposed to the wind and without a really flat spot to pitch a 4-P tent – we weren’t seeing anything that looked like a dolmen. The mystery continued for a minute or so – and then we realized that the 1.5m rectangular rock with a couple of small rocks underneath was what we were looking for! To describe it as even a humble example of a dolmen would be really pushing it! 

A more probable explanation – a party of four bored campers or maybe a group from one of Lake Temagami’s summer camps had one afternoon pried the rectangular rock chunk up and shoved a couple of smaller stones underneath to level its top and create a flatter area for their cooking utensils or plates – hence “Table Rock”. 

Table Rock – Florence Lake – see here for a view of the stones placed underneath

No offense to the few pre-European contact Anishinaabe-speaking hunters who may have passed by this spot,  but you have to wonder what fantasy-prone individual  (almost certainly not Indigenous) was able to create a bogus “ancient sacred site” out of this rock and then postulate about why it was pointed in the direction it was!  The Ottertooth map note just perpetuates the silliness. 

From Table Rock we looked west towards our campsite of the two previous nights; it had been a good one but we were happy to be on the move again. Max was feeling much better than he had been a couple of days before.  

looking back at our Florence Lake west side CS from Table Rock CS

As we paddled north to the lake’s outlet – the Florence River – we came again to the collapsed cabin and got a few more shots. This time the photos had blue sky in them! [See Day 3 post for more cabin pix!]

the derelict cabin -“Good Tent” – on Florence Lake

The cabin was built in the mid-1950s (says the note on the Ottertooth map); 65 years on it was in a state of terminal decline. No doubt it served as a good tent during its prime.

Florence Lake cabin nameplate -Good Tent

Down the Florence River we went (no current), past the mediocre campsite at the north end of the lake, and not quite close enough to the one and only moose we saw during our ten-days out –  and then back on the Lady Evelyn’s South Branch. The water level was fairly shallow here – maybe 1 1/2 to 2 feet deep. Half-paddles were all we could do!

As noted already, there were lilies up the mouth of the river and above and below the confluence all the way down to Duff Lake.  Progress this day came easier once we got beyond the lily pond. We stuck with the South Branch right to the Forks.  We were enjoying our first blue sky and sunshine day of the trip

the south branch Lady Evelyn near Florence River junction lily pond

Two kilometers north of Duff Lake – about halfway down Jack’s Lake – is a campsite marked on both the Ottertooth and Chrismar maps.

It is on river right on the flat top of a sloped rock outcrop and there are multiple tent site possibilities, some nicely sheltered. A fire pit and – in the bush behind the site – a toilet box complete the site.  The views from the elevated spot are great – definitely a decent place to stop. And yet again,  no litter, no mess to be found!

The one set of rapids on the south branch below the Florence Lake outlet is at White Rock Rapids (named Cedar Rapids in the Wilson guidebook), a short 40-meter Class 1 stretch that is easily run; it can also be lined or walked down.  

White Rock Rapids Lady Evelyn South Branch with swifts above

approaching White Rock rapids on the Lady Evelyn’s south branch

 Just below this set of rapids is another campsite. We found room for multiple tents, and while no spot was especially flat,  it would still make a good spot to stop for the night.  The usual fire pit, a toilet box at the end of a signed trail,  a very nice view of the fall colours to the south … maybe a B grade for this one!

There are a couple of “short cuts” or “bypasses” that you can take to eliminate some Lady Evelyn south branch paddling – 

  1. Just below White Rock rapids – and to the left of the campsite indicated above –  is a 420-meter portage into Dees Lake and then at its north end, a longer 1000-meter carry that gets you to the north branch of the river a kilometer and a bit up from the Forks. This option makes the most sense for someone coming down the North Branch from Gamble Lake who is headed to Florence Lake or the Sturgeon River.
  2. About 3 kilometers upriver from the Forks, there is a 175-meter portage that takes you from the south branch into a puddle named Shortcut Lake at the north end of which another 55-meter carry gets you into the Lady Evelyn’s Main channel. You would not only be below the Forks; you would also be downriver from the first portage below the Forks.  

See the Ottertooth Florence Lake map to get a better idea of these two options. 

a touch of fall colour on the lower stretch of the Lady Evelyn’s South Branch

Having started off on the south branch’s headwaters on Apex or Whitemud Lake, there was no way we would abandon it three kilometers before The Forks! While we did find two or three beaver dams and some deadfall stretched across the river in the final stretch after White Rock rapids, they were easily dealt with. A bonus on the last 5 km. was a just noticeable current that added a 1km/hr. zip to our speed! We enjoyed our trip on the lower half of the south branch – scenic, small river stress-free paddling…a nice way to spend a day!

My mind creates expectations as I plan my trip route down a never-before-seen river. The Forks was a spot that took on special significance since it was the end of the South Branch as well as where it merged with the North Branch coming from near Beauty Lake.  With past river junctions in mind – maybe the dramatic Bloodvein-Gammon, I pictured

just below the Bloodvein/Gammon Junction

  1. cliffs,
  2. some sloped rock outcrop, and
  3. a decent campsite on one of its corners.

As the video below indicates, I struck out! Still, it was great to be at The Forks of the Lady Evelyn! 

 

Lady Evelyn River’s Main Channel – the stretch from The Forks to Katherine Lake, where it divides again

We were now on the Main Channel – i.e. the stretch from the Forks to the bottom of Katherine Lake.  As we rounded the corner we encountered the first person we had met since the paddlers on Smoothwater Lake.  Under the impression that there was a roomy campsite on river right just below the Forks, I stepped ashore for a quick look, finding his tent and little room for anything else. [The site I was actually thinking of was one mentioned by Wilson and on the other side of the river. It has room for multiple tents.]

Back on the river a few meters down from the campsite we came to a log crossing the river with just enough room underneath for each of us to step over, push down our end of the canoe to squeeze it under and then hop back in.  ___________________________________________________________

Note: A bit of confusion here.  The Chrismar map indicates a 320-meter portage starting at the campsite we had just taken a look at. Then it has an identical 320-meter portage correctly placed 1 km. downriver. 

It looks like the same portage has been put in two places! Neither the Hap Wilson guidebook (see here for a version) nor an Ottertooth map has a portage just below the Forks where the Chrismar map has placed one.    ___________________________________________________________

After our log step-over (see here for a pic of Max in action on another occasion), we headed down one kilometer to the first set of rapids – a Class 2 – and the 320-meter-or-so portage around them on river right, which took us 45 minutes to get done.

a view of the top of the first set of Rapids below the Forks of the Lady Evelyn

By now it was 4:45 and we were looking to end the day; both the Chrismar and Hap Wilson maps show a campsite 1.5 km. down from the our put-in on river right .  The site sits just off the short portage trail across the point. That was going to be it.

CS05 (the campsite on the right side of the map above)  is where Day 5 ended, 32 kilometers downriver from our Florence Lake CS that we had left eight hours before.  It had been a nice easy day on the river – but we knew the next day would be more work as we dealt with close to a dozen sets of rapids and portages. 

Lady Evelyn CS below the Forks – Day 5

Our campsite sat right off the 40-meter portage trail but we weren’t expecting any traffic at the end of the day and figured that we’d be gone the next morning before anyone wearing a canoe came by.  While we were happy to find it given the time (almost 5 p.m.) the site is rather nondescript but serviceable; it has a toilet box nearby and there is room for a couple of tents.   We’d give it a C ; it does the job.  

We had a decision to make that night – would we paddle across the river to the left bank and do the portage or would we line and float our way down the river? 

Next Post: Day 6 – Down  To Macpherson Lake

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Temagami’s Lady Evelyn River From Top to Bottom: Day 4 – On Florence Lake

Previous Post: Day 3- From Our “It’ll Have To Do’  Lady Evelyn South Branch CS To Florence Lake

We spent a couple of nights at our Florence Lake campsite.  Max had come down with some ailment the previous day, the day with the portages on the stretch of the south branch of the Lady Evelyn above the Florence River confluence.  The 24-hour flu (if that is what it was)  had left him weakened and chilled. He ate little and slept a lot as he stayed warm inside the tent and his sleeping bag.

Meanwhile, I rambled around the almost-island taking macro pix of mushrooms and other fungi, hoping to fill my viewfinder with that blue mushroom- the lactarius indigo – my wife had asked me to look for.

See here for the image source. Also, see here for a Wikipedia article on this colourful denizen of the forest floor.

The thought did enter my mind that the mushroom was a Photoshop creation and that my wife,  figuring I needed something other than pictographs to obsess about, had come up with the idea of sending me on a quest for a not-yet-revealed-to-mere-mortals blue mushroom!

Florence Lake scenic viewpoint – map to access

On our second afternoon on the lake, we followed the shore for one kilometer south of our campsite on the point, looking for signs to the start of a possible bushwhack trail that would take us to a scenic lookout above the lake.  We figured we might see a strip of prospector’s tape or other sign of human presence to indicate a route up.  However, we were not expecting to see this –

the trail marker at the start of the Florence Lake scenic viewpoint

A blue trail marker told us we were in the right place!  We pulled the canoe ashore and up into the bush and looked up to what was clearly a trail – somewhat rough but still much more than a bushwhack!

the Florence Lake trail – the first thirty meters

Whoever made the path did not attempt to create a switchback trail – after all,  this is not a local Peruvian or Nepalese pathway used by yaks and donkeys to move food and supplies over difficult terrain. This rough path goes straight up!

One great thing about a signed path is that it keeps the impact of people tromping up and down the hillside to a narrow corridor instead of having everyone ad-libbing their own way.

the Florence Lake scenic lookout trail – straight up!

The reward for a bit of huffing and puffing?  The view! Mind you, at about 440 m a.s.l. you’re not at the very top and if you were the view might well be zero given the dense pine forest you’d be standing in!

The viewpoint is about  100 meters lower than the actual top and 80 meters above the lake itself. This is what we saw on an overcast day punctuated with the occasional bit of drizzle. Adobe Lightroom’s “photomerge” feature stitched together three images I snapped to create a panorama of the south end of Florence Lake as we looked east from our vantage point –

a panoramic view from the Florence Lake viewpoint

We looked around for yet another blue trail indicator leading further up but did not see anything. We assumed that we had reached the viewpoint – and indeed it was a nice spot to be. Had the weather been better and the sloped rock and the lichen not been wet and very slippery and unstable, we may have stayed up a bit longer. We scampered across a short stretch of the sloped rock outcrop and then headed back to where we thought we had come up out of the trees.

another image of the view from Florence Lake lookout

a view of our campsite on the almost-island on Florence Lake

Forty-five minutes later we were back down at the canoe, having gotten lost on the initial stretch on the way down.

Tips:

  • put a visible marker on the last tree you come to on the bottom edge of the rock face so that you can easily find it – and the trail! – on your way down!
  • Max skinned three fingertips while we scampered across the wet sloped rock face. It bothered him for days afterwards.  A pair of gloves would have been nice! No need for climbing rope!

As we paddled back to our campsite, we looked back for a view of the rock face viewpoint.  This is what we saw –

a view of the rock face of the scenic lookout on Florence lake

The arrow points at the trailhead on the shore; if the sign should for some reason be gone, there is still that flat rock sitting there to serve as a sign! Almost straight above is the rockface that serves as the open lookout point.

a view of our tucked-in tent site on Florence Lake – the point is to the right

We took it easy for the rest of the day; Max was starting to feel better and we had supper under the tarp.  In the early evening, something amazing happened – the sun came out! We were seeing the lake in a new light and it looked incredible. Blue everywhere!

blue sky on Florence Lake after days of overcast and dreary weather

Okay, so it wasn’t the blue mushroom I was looking for – but what a sight! We hoped for more clear skies and sunshine the next day!

blue sky over Florence Lake

In early September it is all but dark by 8:00 p.m. so we made sure we walked our food bags a fair distance away (50 m or so) from our tent before dark came.  Nighttime temperatures were usually below 10ºC during our week and a half out; this meant we were often in the tent shortly after 8!  With overcast skies most days there was usually nothing to look up to.

Possible Confusion About the Florence Lake Lookout Trail – There is more than one!

Florence Lake scenic viewpoint – different trails

Older sources of information provide paddlers with a few ways of getting to a Florence lake viewpoint.  None of them is the signed trail that we did in September of 2020.

Wilson’s Florence Lake viewpoint trail

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Hap Wilson Temagami guidebook – my 2011 copy is a reprint of the 2004 edition – shows a trail to the north of the campsite on the point. It is headed in the direction of a hilltop at about 540 in altitude.

Ottertooth Map – 2017

Chrismar 2011

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Chrismar Temagami 4 map (I have the 2011 edition) indicates a trail just south of the creek that comes into the lake to the southwest of the campsite on the point. A note on the map says “trail not maintained”. It seems to end up in the same spot – i.e. the exposed rockface – that the signed trail took us to.

The Ottertooth Florence Lake map (2017) also indicates a trail to a viewpoint. Its starting point is about the same as the signed one we found; however, it is much more angled to the south than the signed trail we followed.  The line on the Ottertooth map ends at 530m which I assume is the very top of the hill.

This satellite image of the area reveals the two sloped rock outcrops that the Chrismar map “trail”, our signed trail, and the Ottertooth map “trail” aim for. Of the three, the Ottertooth bushwhack is the longest and the signed trail route is the shortest and easiest.

If you’ve been up the “trail” sketched in the Wilson book, the Chrismar map,  or the Ottertooth map, I’d be interested in your observations.  Feel free to comment below – fellow canoe trippers will benefit from your viewpoint -and your approach to it! – and perhaps be spared some grief. Also, if you have any information about who put in the signed trail – and when – please let me know. It would be nice to give them some acknowledgment!


Florence Lake and F.G. Speck’s Hunting Grounds Map:


According to the map [see here] drawn by F.G. Speck in 1913 at Bear Island In Lake Temagami with the input of community members living around the Hudson Bay Co. post there, the Florence River and Florence Lake were the western borders of Misabi’s hunting grounds in the mid-to-late 1800s.  Only when we paddled north on Willow Island Lake a few days later would we leave his hunting grounds.

 

[Click on the cover above or the following title to access Speck’s 1915 report.

 Family Hunting Territories and Social Life of Various Algonkian Bands of the Ottawa Valley]

As I mentioned in the introductory post, in 1913 Misabi was still alive and almost 100 years old when Speck visited.  He had come up to Temagami from Georgian Bay – one source says from the Shawanaga area of Georgian Bay – as a young man and, after marrying one of Ke’kek’s daughters, was given 27a as his hunting ground. A generation before this- i.e. around 1800- 1820 – hunting grounds 27a, 27, and 24 were all one hunting ground and belonged to the father of Ke’Kek and Wendaban.

While Ke’kek inherited the lands encompassed by 27 and 27a, Wendaban got the Lady Evelyn Lake area 24.  From their relative sizes, it may be that Wendaban was the younger son.  Apparently, Wendaban married a Nipissing woman and spent many winters (the hunting time) on Lake Nipissing instead of in the Lady Evelyn Lake area. The couple did not have any children.  Speck did not speak with or record the presence of anyone from Wendaban’s hunting ground #24 during his stay.  As for Misabi, he had a cabin at the outlet of Obabika Lake at the top of the Obabika River. Speck recorded five people as living in Misabi’s territory in 1913.

In his Temagami guidebook,  Hap Wilson notes that Florence Lake

“is surrounded by beautiful hills and towering pine – no wonder the Tema Augama preferred this lake as a sanctuary.”

While he is certainly right about the natural beauty of the lake and its surroundings, left unstated is any evidence for the claim that the lake served as a sanctuary. What may have started as Wilson’s easily understandable personal view of the lake thanks to its relative isolation and the effort to get there has perhaps been projected backward in time to become someone else’s special place.  Also left to the reader’s imagination is exactly what kind of “place of refuge or safety” it was? A hiding place from Iroquois invaders?  A spiritual retreat center for shamans and vision questers?

Madeline Katt Theriault was born in Temagami in 1908 and grew up learning to live off the land in an almost-traditional pre-European-contact way.  Her memoir Moose To Mocassins mentions Florence Lake five times but only in the context of a hunting/fishing spot where she notes her husband shot dead a bear and where they easily caught a massive amount of lake trout.  If the lake held some special significance as anything else, she does not mention it.

As for the designation “Teme Augama” sometimes with “Anishinabay” (or some other variation in spelling)  added,  it is not a name that existed in Misabi’s time, having been created in the 1970s during a time of rising Indigenous nationalism.  It refers to non-status as well as status people, Ojibwe or Algonquin, as well as  Metis who currently live in the area. How Misabi would have felt about this broadly-inclusive group making use of Florence Lake – and living off his food sources while there – is an open question.

In the end, it is unlikely that anyone other than Misabi or his immediate relatives would be coming up here. There would be other places to be in the summer months  – and it is not as if the journey to the lake from Obabika Lake or Bear Island on Lake Temagami in September at the start of the hunting season was an easy one.


Perhaps it was proof that Max was back to normal or that the upper stretch of the south branch was about as bad as it was going to get?   Whatever the case, the next day we did over thirty kilometers of easy and enjoyable paddling with very little drama as we got to the Forks and started heading down the combined South and North channels of the Lady Evelyn River to Katherine Lake.

Next Post: Day 5 – From Florence Lake To Just Below The Forks of the Lady Evelyn

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