The Wabakimi Area – with Wabakimi Provincial Park’s 8,920 square kilometers (3,440 sq. mi.) as its core – is one of Ontario’s more remote and vast paddling destinations. The network of lakes and rivers scratched by retreating glaciers some ten thousand years ago have made this section of the Canadian Shield a paddler’s paradise.
See here to access an interactive Google Maps view of the above for more detail.
Wabakimi Canoe Country’s approximate boundaries are:
- the Albany River to the north,
- Highway 599 to the west, and
- the Kopka River and Lake Nipigon to the south and
- the Little Jackfish River to the east.
The Ogoki River, the longest river within Wabakimi Provincial Park’s boundaries, runs from east from its headwaters in Endogoki Lake just outside the park’s boundary near Savant Lake. Wider sections of the Ogoki include Wabakimi Lake, Whitewater Lake, and Whiteclay Lake. The Ogoki Reservoir, meant to divert some of this flow from the James Bay watershed to Lake Nipigon via the Little Jackfish River, was created in the early 1940s with the construction of the Waboose Dam and the height-of-land Summit Dam.
Its overall size makes the Wabakimi area larger than the state of Connecticut or twice the size of the province of Prince Edward Island. And the amazing thing is that this remote section of north-western Ontario sees very few visitors. While a number of fly-in fishing outposts see some action, it is the seven hundred or so canoe tripping parties each year who mostly have Wabakimi to themselves.
The reward for making the 250-kilometer trip up the highway from Thunder Bay to Armstrong Station is a memorable trip on any one of the many possible combinations of waterways through this slice of the Boreal Forest, limited only by time and ambition and perhaps the willingness to splurge on a bush plane insertion or pick-up.
Getting Hooked On Wabakimi:
Back in early 2010 my bro Max and I hadn’t even considered Wabakimi. Actually, we had never even heard of it! And if we had, the distance from our southern Ontario homes would have made us think hard about driving that far. Then we found Kevin Callan’s book A Paddler’s Guide to Quetico and Beyond; it has a chapter that focuses on the Beckwith Cabins on Best Island in Whitewater Lake. It provided us with the initial motivation to make the 1600-kilometer drive.
Finding the Friends of Wabakimi (formerly Wabakimi Project) website led us to Phil Cotton and Barry Simon and their as-yet-unpublished material for Volume One of the five map sets which this Wabakimi advocacy group has published over the past decade. Now we had what we needed to know about our chosen canoe route. Ken Kokanie’s downloadable map set also helped provide more details on portages and campsites that made our first Wabakimi trip a reality. (See this post – Discovering Wabakimi: Paddling To The Center of the Universe – for more info on logistics and maps and route planning.)
Wabakimi’s Top Six:
The other day while reminiscing about our five trips – about eighty paddling days in some of what Wabakimi has to offer – we mulled over a list of our half-dozen favorites, those memorable places with a definite “wow” factor. Subjective as any such list will be, we figure that our attempt to nail The Six has to contain at least a highlight or two that would make the cut no matter who was making it!
For what it’s worth, here is our Wabakimi Top Six List!
1. Cliff Lake on the Pikitigushi River System:
In spite of having visited Wabakimi the two previous summers, we had not even heard of Cliff Lake and had no idea of what we would find. It took a trip report by Chuck Ryan to make us aware of the lake as one of the great pictograph lakes of the Canadian Shield. While the fifty feet plus in height rock faces that line some stretches of the lake are awesome in themselves, the presence of two or three-hundred-year-old Anishinaabe rock paintings elevates the lake to an even higher level.
The east-facing orientation of these pictographs provides an interesting counterpoint to those on the west-facing Mazinaw Cliffs found on the other side of Ontario in the much more easily accessible Bon Echo Provincial Park.
We will definitely get back to Cliff Lake one summer soon – and this time we’ll spend more than a day there to experience the pictographs with hopefully both a setting and rising sun!
For more info on Cliff Lake, see
- The Pictographs of Wabakimi’s Cliff Lake – Selwyn Dewdney Takes Us On A Tour!
- The Pictographs of Wabakimi’s Cliff Lake – Part II.
Update: In September 2018 we did indeed go back for a second look! Check out –
2. The Kopka River – The “Seven Sisters” Section
The Kopka is one of the favourite rivers of Cliff Jacobson, the U.S. version of Ontario’s #1 canoe advocate, Kevin Callan. References to the Kopka pop up in a couple of his books that I have read. Like Cliff Lake, it wasn’t a destination I was at all familiar with before I started researching. What Max and I ended up with was a twelve-day canoe trip from Allan Water Bridge to the highway back to Armstrong Station. It took us up the Brightsand and Kashishibog Rivers and, for the last five days, down the Kopka River from its headwaters in Redsand Lake.
While the entire trip was memorable, the most dramatic is the section of the Kopka from the south end of Lake Kenakskaniss to the bottom of the last dramatic set of rapids. This stretch makes up the Seven Sisters section of the river. In the barely two-kilometer distance between these two points, there are seven drops in elevation, adding up to an awe-inspiring 215 feet (65 meters).
We were so taken by this stretch of the river that we are planning another trip that will combine it with a return visit to Cliff Lake – the ultimate double-header and one we can do in ten days or less. It would start with a plane ride from Mattice Lake to Cliff Lake and then a three-day paddle down the Pikitigushi River to the Mud River VIA train stop. A train ride to the west of Collins and we’d access the Kopka via the Aldridge Lake route. The return visit will definitely include more time spent just being there instead of paddling through.
Update 2018: Instead of connecting the two by train we ended up paddling down Lake Nipigon and up the mouth of the Wabinosh River to Wabinosh Lake, which is where the Kopka ends its run.
For more info on the Kopka River system, see this post –
3. The Albany From Upper Eskakwa to Snake Falls
You can’t go wrong with waterfalls and sets of powerful rapids on any Top Six list; they demand respect and elicit awe from those paddling by. While we missed the challenging rapids just upriver from where the Misehkow empties into the Albany, we did get to experience four sets of Albany waterfalls over a two-day period as we paddled down towards Petawanga Lake.
Well-trodden portage trails around all of them made for easy carries; we would dump our gear at the end of the trail and then walk back upriver with our camera gear, hoping to capture a little of the magic. Upper Eskakwa, Eskakwa, Snake, and Miminiska Falls too – what a buzz to stand there and take it all in!
The Albany River (892 kilometers from its headwaters in Cat Lake to James Bay) shares “longest river in Ontario” status with the Severn River. And while it is no longer the river it once was, having been neutered by a number of water diversion schemes, it is still an impressive river. We were glad our canoe trip included at least a few days on this historic waterway of the fur trade era.
For More Info on The Albany: See Paddling The Albany River (From the Mouth of the Misehkow to Petawanga Lake)
4. The Misehkow River
We won’t soon forget the Misehkow, a short and little-travelled river system that flows about one hundred kilometers from its headwaters east and north into the Albany. The only signs of human activity along the length of the river are an abandoned outpost on Rockcliff Lake where we landed and a mining camp just below the river’s one major waterfalls, Iron Falls. What we did see during the three days we spent on the river was a half-dozen moose – more moose than on any stretch of river before.
For more info on the Misehkow, see Canoeing Wabakimi’s Misehkow River
5. The Palisade River
The Palisade is another short Wabakimi river that empties into Kenoji Lake after winding its way south and east from its headwaters near Burntrock Lake. It has some beautiful narrower stretches that really add a certain intimacy to paddling through Canadian Shield country.
We did the scenic stretch from Kenoji up to the turn-off for Scrag Lake. We had actually planned to go all the way up to Burntrock Lake. Unfortunately, it was the summer of 2011 and NW Ontario was ablaze with a record-setting number of massive fires. Thunder Bay 50 had its start right near Burntrock Lake so our route plan changed.
Update Jan. 2021 – our planned trip down the Ogoki river this summer from its headwaters to the Reservoir will include a side trip up the mouth of the Palisade. This time we will check out a reported four pictograph sites that we did not know about in 2013! See here for their supposed locations.
6. Whitewater Lake – The Ogoki Lodge & The Beckwith Cabins on Best Island
From Wabakimi Lake the Ogoki River takes you down to Whitewater Lake, passing through Kenoji Lake on the way. Located around the lake are a number of lodges and outposts that make it seem quite busy and yet on our two trips across the massive lake, we saw no one…no fishermen and no paddlers.
When we paddled by the Ogoki Lodge we stepped on shore to take a look and were surprised to find an abandoned set of buildings, the most impressive being the main lodge pictured below but also including four cabins and a two-storey motel-like addition. It was an incredible amount of real estate to be sitting there idle and we wondered what the story was.
One story we later heard was that the tipi-inspired building at Ogoki Lodge was designed by an eccentric American hermit by the name of Wendell Beckwith who had lived on nearby Best Island until his death in 1980. Since it was just a short paddle to Best Island we went to check out what he called “the center of the universe”, feeling a little like pilgrims as we walked around the site and peeked into the three cabins that he had constructed.
As impressed as we were with Beckwith’s work, we left with a more depressing thought. It was clear that if something is not done soon time and nature will combine to bring down the Cabins. The largest of them has a massive hole in the roof which is open to the elements; the blue tarp seen in the image above was someone’s attempt about a decade ago to deal with the problem. It has been five summers since we were there and when our thoughts turn to the fate of the Beckwith Cabins we end up with a meditation on the one certainty that nothing in this world can escape.
If only the Cabins could serve as a hook of a different kind to lure visitors to Wabakimi Park. This is where the voice of reason chimes in with a harsh – “Yes, spend a million dollars to preserve and maintain the cabins so that all of fifty or sixty paddlers or fishermen a year can see them!”
For more info on Ogoki Lodge and the Beckwith Cabins, see The Ogoki Lodge & The Beckwith Cabins: “All Things Must Pass”
Also Worthy of Consideration:
7. Brennan Falls/Granite Falls on the Allan Water River
I know – more waterfalls! The two on the Allanwater River system are especially welcome after spending a day paddling the length of Brennan Lake.
8. Our favorite Wabakimi campsite – a spot on the Kopka
Had it been a rainy day – or had the water level been higher or lower – it may well have been all different. On another day we may have kept on going in search of a campsite a bit further downriver. Instead, we stopped at 2:00 to enjoy one of those perfect afternoons which became a perfect evening. Looking around we agreed that we were lucky to be smack dab in the middle of one big WOW.
9. Echo Rock … on the southern edge of Wabakimi
A day’s paddle from the mouth of the Kopka River and Wabinosh Lake along the shore of Lake Nipigon is a majestic rock face we have paddled by on the southern edge of Wabakimi country. Even though the rain and wind meant for less-than-ideal visits when we first paddled alongside it one afternoon and then again the next morning, we will not forget the power and majesty that this spot exudes. It reminded us of another rock face at the other end of the Anishinaabe world, the one at Bon Echo in eastern Ontario called Mazinaw Rock.
See the post From Lake Nipigon’s Echo Rock To Waweig Lake for more on Echo Rock.
And there you have it – our subjective take on the best of Wabakimi! Given how much there is to explore, we’ve clearly not paddled by a spot or two that really should be on this list.
If you’ve been to Wabakimi, let us know if we hit some of your high points and what spots we missed. You’ll be giving us ideas on a potential route for our next Wabakimi canoe trip!
Here is the complete collection of Wabakimi-related posts we have uploaded since our first visit in 2010:
1. 2010 Allanwater R/Wabakimi Lake/Ogoki River/ Whitewater L/Smoothrock L/Caribou R/Little Caribou L
2. 2011 Flindt River/ Wabakimi Lake/ Palisade River/ Greyson/ Whitewater/ Smoothrock Lake/Boiling Sand River
More recently (2020) I reorganized the above posts and added satellite and topo map material.
3. 2012 From Allan Water Bridge via the Brightsand River to the Kopka & Lake Bukemiga
4. 2013 Misehkow River /Albany River /Petawa Creek/ Hurst Lake/ Witchwood River/ Raymond River / Pikitigushi River
- The Pictographs of Wabakimi’s Cliff Lake -Part One: Selwyn Dewdney Takes Us on A Tour
- The Pictographs of Wabakimi’s Cliff Lake – Part Two
5. 2018 – Down The Pikitigushi From Cliff Lake to Lake Nipigon, Down Lake Nipigon to Echo Rock, Up the west side of Lake Nipigon To Wabinosh Bay, Up To Waweig Lake
6. 2021 – an already-planned August trip down the Ogoki River from its headwaters in Endogoki Lake just east of Savant Lake to the VIA Mud River stop, a floatplane pick-up on Mojikit Lake, or VIA train rendezvous at the Little Jackfish River crossing.