Wabakimi Canoe Trip: Days 9 and 10 – McKinley Bay to Smoothrock Lake

Previous Post: Days 7 and 8 – From The Grayson River To Best island Via Ogoki Lodge and the Beckwith Cabins

Day Nine: Best Island To Lonebreast Bay of Smoothrock lake – Bussey I. 

distance: 22 km. 

paddling south on McKinley Bay at 6:00 a.m., intent on leaving Thunder Bay 57 behind

We got up at 5:00 the next morning and were into McKinley Bay by 6 a.m., intent on paddling away from the new fire and way down into Lonebreast Bay to the south by 11:00.

Portages from Whitewater lake To McKinley Lake

After knocking off the first three portages of the day –  we finally made a one-hour breakfast stop on a flat elevated rock in the middle of the lake after P38. None are difficult although it was our second time through and we still had trouble finding P36! The bay is quite reedy so it can be a challenge to find the trailhead if you are the first party through in a while.

Below is our breakfast rock! We had left Best Island without even a cup of coffee thanks to those sandflies!

a late breakfast in the middle of  the nameless lake between McKinley and Laurent Lakes

We continued south after breakfast to the next portage.  Just as we got to the end of P 39, it started to rain – not the torrential downpour we had seen on Grayson Lake but still a nice long soak which was sure to cool down the bush around us. We had arrived at 11:15; we didn’t leave until 1:00 p.m.!

me getting instant feedback on a shot I’ve taken while sitting under the tarp at the end of the portage – this was the first canoe trip where we were happy every time it started raining!

We spent over an hour sitting under that tarp, sipping on coffee, taking too many pix and celebrating the downpour. It washed away the tension of the previous day and a half and, except for a whiff that we got the next night at our Smoothrock Lake camp, that would be it for smoke and fire.

This is what I was looking at in the above shot! I wasn’t sure if the raindrops would be sharp enough.

With the portage from Laurent Lake into Lonebreast Bay, that would also be it for portages and rapids for a couple of days. Other than the initial difficulty of finding the portage trail at the south end of McKinley Bay, the six carries from McKinley Bay to Lonebreast Bay are quick and easy.

We paddled down Lonebreast Bay for an hour and pulled ashore on Bussey Island.  There is an established campsite there – tucked away and nicely sheltered. Also on site was a plaque left by friends of a deceased paddler who had spent time on the island. One note about the campsite – not everyone found it as we did. Here is a Canadian Canoe Routes forum member’s account of what he found –

Bussey Island when I went to scout it was a trash heap.. The water full of dead fish skins.. The island trashed with tp and propane ( 10 lb ) bottles. I went on. There is another campsite on the south shore about 2 km west of Bussey. Best for soloist. mccr source

There is a fishing lodge down the main part of Smoothrock Lake which may explain the mess found.  Lodge guests and their guide probably use the island for fish fry lunches.

our campsite on Bussey Island in Lonebreast Bay Smoothrock Lake Wabakimi

Day Ten: Lonebreast Bay To Smoothrock Lake Central

distance: 11 km. 

the breakfast table on the beach- notice the coffee filters for the real coffee we brought along for the first time. From now on, no more instant coffee!

After a leisurely two-cups-of-coffee start to the day, we headed south on Lonebreast Bay. Our objective for the day was to hit Smoothrock Lake Central and then find a campsite that would put us in a good position for the next day’s paddle down the west arm of the Lake.

Smoothrock Lake – Bays and Arms

a stretch of beautiful shoreline on Lonebreast Bay as we paddle south

We found our spot on a small island at the hub of Smoothrock Lake, an elevated spot with a flat top, some trees to provide shade and a windscreen and a nice breeze on the rock sloping down to the water.  We set up our tent and hung our sleeping bags on a line we set up to take advantage of the sun and wind.

All in all, it was an easy day after the 5 a.m. get-up the day before on Best Island’s South Beach.

a terrific campsite on a small island at the top of Smoothrock Lake

the same spot- a different angle!

Next Post: Days 11 to 15 – Killing Time on Smoothrock Lake’s West Arm and The Boiling Sand River

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