Canoeing The French River From Top To Bottom: Intro., Logistics, Planning and Maps

Last revised on May 7, 2024.

Canoeing The French River From Top To Bottom:

Table of Contents:

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Day-By-Day Reports – Maps, Campsites, Points of Interest, etc.

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A Bit of History:

In 1989 the Ontario government created French River Provincial Park to protect and promote a river that was once an integral part of a water highway that stretched from Montreal to the Canadian Rockies. Flowing downstream 110 kilometers from the south side of Lake Nipissing to Georgian Bay, it was a short but crucial section of a transcontinental trade route used by Indigenous Peoples and then, after 1615, by French and Canadien explorers, coureurs de bois, and Roman Catholic missionaries.

Frances Hopkins - shooting the rapids

a painting by Frances Anne Hopkins from 1879, long after the demise of the transcontinental fur trade route

With the British take-over of Canada in 1763 and the establishment of the North West Company in Montreal,  the interior route to the fur riches of the West continued to flourish. The twelve-meter-long canots du Maître with their 4 tonnes of cargo and crew came down the French River each spring.

The voyageurs were on their way to the NWC warehouses and trading post at Grand Portage (and later at Fort William) at the west end of Lake Superior. There they dropped off the trade goods and collected the furs for the return journey.

the online source of the map: here (link dead May 2023)

The river system’s integral connection with Canada’s early history meant that when the newly formed federal government program The Canadian Heritage Rivers System named its first river in 1986, the French River – La Rivière des Français – was chosen.

Canadian Heritage Rivers plaque – French River Visitors’ Center off Highway 69

This June, my brother and I returned to the French River. A few years ago, we spent a memorable week paddling the French River Delta from our put-in at Hartley Bay Marina in mid-September.

Canoeing Georgian Bay’s French River Delta: Logistics, Maps, & Day 1

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Mid-1980s Visits to the French River:

In the mid-1980s, I paddled the upper French River a couple of times. On both trips, we started in Restoule Provincial Park and paddled down the Restoule River to where it meets the French.

[See 2020 Ontario Parks Restoule map for detailed  canoe route info.]

Restoule Lake and River to the French below the Portage Channel Dam

Both times we also left the French River just before Highway 69 via  Horseshoe Falls to access Cantin Lake and the  Pickerel River system, which we paddled up to Dollars Lake and an eventual take-out at Port Loring.

from French River to Port Loring via the Pickerel River system

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The difference this time?

This time we planned to include the Upper French above the mouth of the Restoule River and see for ourselves the following landmarks –

  • Canoe Pass,
  • Gibraltar Point,
  • the Kennedy Island Pictograph site,
  • the Chaudière and Portage Channel dams,
  • the Keso Point pictograph site.

We also wanted to experience

  • the Gorge stretch from Highway 69 down to Ox Bay.

the French River from the snowmobilers’ bridge behind the Interpretive Center

Every time we’ve crossed the Hwy. 69 bridge on the way up North to another canoe trip, and again on the way back, we’d look down that dramatic corridor and say – “Someday we’re going down that!”

Pierre Sabourin (click on his name to access his website) captures the feel of that stretch just south of the bridge in a “Group of Seven” kind of way:

Pierre Sabourin- Land of the Voyageur

Another Ontario artist – Blake Richardson – takes the same view of the French River looking south from Hwy. 69 and draws you in with an image that is more than initially meets the eye, with elements not so much hidden as embedded in the surface view we all see. The artist explains his process here.

Find the animals! Blake Richardson’s painting on top of the photographed image –

We would see the Richardson photograph/painting when we stopped at the French River Interpretive Center on our way back south after the trip. But first, we walked onto the Snowmobilers’ Bridge and got the shot you see above of the iconic view.

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Where To Start?

The original plan was to start at Champlain Park in North Bay. The Park is located on the shore of Lake Nipissing at the mouth of the La Vase River. It is at the end of the portage route which Etienne Brulé in 1610, Champlain in 1615, and everyone who followed made use of to get to the shore of Lake Nipissing from the Mattawa River and Trout Lake. If we were going to retrace the route taken by those voyageurs, this was the place to start!

La Vase Portage Plaque

Logistics:

The plan was this: we would get  Hartley Bay Marina to provide a shuttle driver,  whom we would pick up and then drive over to North Bay. He would drive the vehicle back to Hartley Bay while we set off on our little adventure. Our ten-day trip would end when we unloaded our gear on the marina dock.

However, a closer look at the map had me reconsidering the point of driving to the east end of the lake just to paddle southwest across a very exposed section to get to the Upper French.

Lake Nipissing from Sucker Creek Landing to North Bay

The conversation in my head went something like this –

  • It’s the route those voyageurs took on their epic journeys. That’s the route we’re going to take!”
  • “Aren’t we getting a bit obsessive about all of this? They did it because they had to. We don’t have to!”
  • “It would only take us a day and a half to cover the 40 kilometres from Champlain Park to the top of the French.”
  • “But look how exposed we’d be to winds from the northwest or southwest. That is some pretty open water there. Surely we could find an alternative that would be less stressful!”

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Sucker Creek Landing (Shuswap Camp):

At the west end of Lake Nipissing is Sucker Creek Landing. It is a one-hour ride from Hartley Bay Marina to Shuswap Camp just off Highway 64 at the west end of West Bay,  a long narrow bay with a string of islands along its south shore. Compared to the open water from North Bay to the top of the French, it is much more sheltered, and we’d be paddling east,  a more favourable direction given the prevailing winds.

Hartley Bay Marina header

A phone call to James Palmer at Hartley Bay Marina established a $140. shuttle cost, a reasonable expense that eliminated most canoe trips’ #1 logistical problem. Our vehicle would be waiting for us in the Hartley Bay Marina parking lot (a $ 10-a-day fee). Note that we did the trip in 2019: the Marina apparently no longer does shuttles or sells Park Backcountry camping permits.

Hartley Bay to Shuswap Camp

I also phoned Shuswap Camp to see if we could put in at their dock. Their response: no problem! I figured we’d have lunch at their restaurant to pay them back.

So – Sucker Creek Landing it was.

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Alternative Put-Ins:

There are other possibilities for those canoe trippers not quite so obsessed about entering the French River system from Lake Nipissing or those looking for a somewhat shorter trip length!

  • The Restoule River entry I used on two previous occasions is one of them.

The map below shows three more:

All options require some sort of shuttle arrangement and vehicle parking.

See this Fed Govt map sheet – Noelville  041 I 01 – for a more detailed view.

Shuttle Providers:

A shuttle makes the trip logistics that much easier. Hartley Bay Marina had been our preferred option because a return from G’Bay does not require a paddle back to Hwy 69, especially up the Gorge section of the French itself.

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2021 Update: A Hartley Bay Marine is no longer doing shuttles. A possible solution? Ask the Shuswap Camp folks if they can arrange a shuttle of your vehicle down to Harley Bay from their property on the final day of your canoe trip.

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We only had one vehicle. With two, you would eliminate the need for a shuttle. Leave one at the endpoint – e.g. Hartley Bay Marina – and the other at the put-in –

You pay to park two vehicles instead of one and spend an hour driving back to the put-in at the end of the canoe trip.

Other possibilities for a shuttle driver and a place to park your car for a week include

  • The French River Supply Post and Marina
  • Smith Marine on the Pickerel River by Hwy 69.  Seb and Chantel Smith can arrange a driver and provide vehicle parking at the marina. Phone 1 705 857 2722 or email smith_marine@hotmail.com .  Sept 2025 update: We are having the marina shuttle us up Hwy 69 to Secord Falls on the Wanapitei River in their vehicle and then paddling back to the marina over an eight-day  period.
  • Pickerel River Marina.

Paddling up the Pickerel from Ox Bay is better if your take-out point is back at Hwy 69. it would mean that you would not have to deal with Recollet Falls and the sometimes strong current in the Gorge section of the French.

If you’ve used any of these, a comment at the end of this post on your experience would be appreciated. It may help the next paddler decide which one to choose!

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Maps:

Friends of French River P.P. Map for campsite info 

The official park map to get in 2023 is the 2021 4th. Edition of the 1:50,000 scale  Friends of French River map. It has the new campsite numbers. The waterproof map is not only a good investment,  it also provides the Friends with a bit of money to keep on doing their work.

The map needs more canoe paddler information on the relatively few portages in the Park. The one thing it is helpful for is indicating campsite locations.

Out-of-date older maps:

In 2021 the FRPP managers decided to retire a few campsites and renumber many others. The result is that pre-2021  Unlostify and the Friends of FRPP maps and trip reports with specific numbered campsites are now outdated. Some campers will be confused as they try to match the number on their pre-2021 map to the one nailed to a tree.

Here is a list of the campsites with their old and new numbers. I’ve reviewed my report and changed many of the campsite #s I mentioned. The new # appears first; the old # follows.

Campsite Re-Numbering Reference

Getting a copy of the new park map at the Park Visitors’ Center along with your backcountry permit would be the easiest thing to do.

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Federal Government NRC Topo Maps:

Natural Resources Canada

If you want to download and make your own paper copies of the relevant bits from the Natural Resources Canada 1:50,000 topos,  just click on the following map titles. The links will take you to a tif file at the Government of Canada’s geogratis site –

Note: The Federal Government provides the maps for “free” but is no longer in the map printing business. Some entrepreneurs have stepped in and set up businesses to print the maps. Most use a plastic material (Dupont’s Tyvek?) instead of paper; individual sheets cost $20. CDN or so.

The NRC maps are the most accurate. They lack two essential bits of info:

  • 1. portage and
  • 2. campsite locations.

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Crawshay’s Topo Canada iOS App – free.

Thanks to its GPS capability, your smartphone is a helpful thing to bring along.

I also brought along my iPhone 6 with David Crawshay’s Topo Canada app with the topographic sheets above installed. The app is free, as are the NRC topo maps you must download before the trip. On a few occasions, especially as we paddled through a maze of channels and islands, I fired it up to see where we were. The one thing I did not do was leave my iPhone on all day with GPS enabled.

ATLOGIS Canada Topo Maps for Android OS: free/$14.

There is an Android OS app from a German app developer similar to Crawshay’s Topo Canada iOS app. However, it costs $14. U.S.  Given its usefulness, the one-time cost is a worthwhile investment that will save you time and aggravation. Click here to access the Google App Store page –

Note: The free version of the app may be enough for your purpose.

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Maps By Jeff:

Screenshot

Another useful map is the Maps By Jeff French River map,  available for $20. in a waterproof plastic material. It covers the French River from just east of Highway 69 to Georgian Bay. It has the new campsite numbers.

Here is an image of the map to give you an idea of the look –

If the map’s overall style looks familiar, the reason is the involvement of Jeff McMurtie, who used to be Jeff’s Maps and then Unlostify! The map provides some historical and geological background on notable spots, as well as up-to-date campsite locations and numbers.

One caution – the 1:50000 NRC topos give much more accurate mapping of narrow channels and passages between islands. I wouldn’t rely just on the Maps By Jeff map, as useful and informative as it is.

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Ontario Parks Online Backcountry Permit:

 

Note: In the fall of 2024 the Park changed its reservation protocol for FRPP. You now pre-book individual campsites.

Backcountry camping permits can be purchased online at the Ontario Parks website. Click on the Reservations option in the header and then the “Backcountry Registration” prompt on the right-hand side of the page.

The 2022 French River fee structure looks like this:

Another option is to stop at the French River Park Visitor Center and get your camping permits there. Maps and up-to-date info on matters relating to the park – fires, bear sightings, water levels, campsite closures, etc. –  would also be available.

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Planning Our Route:

The French River system - from Lake Nipissing to Georgian Bay

For the most part, a trip down the French River system is pretty straightforward: just stick to the main channel and cover the 110 km. to Georgian Bay in four or five days. It took us a day and a half to paddle along the south shore of Lake Nipissing from Sucker Creek Landing to the top of the French River at Canoe Pass.

Day 1 – Lake Nipissing’s West Bay

Day 2 – From Lafleche Point To Canoe Pass

Then there are four sections where you have some choice of route:

1. At The Top of Okikendawt Island:

You can go down the main channel on the south side of Okikendawt Island after doing the 580-meter Portage Channel portage and the Cradle Rapids portage, or you could go down the Little French River channel on the north side of the island and then rejoin the Main Channel after portaging Five Finger Rapids.

Our Choice:  We went down the main channel on the south side of Okikendawt Island.  This is the route the voyageurs used. I planned to visit the pictograph at Cradle Rapids.

Day 3 – From Canoe Pass To Below The Portage Channel Dam

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2. Eighteen Mile Island:

You could choose to paddle the North Channel on the north side of Eighteen Mile Island instead of going down the main channel on the south side.

Our Choice: We went down the Main Channel on the south side of Eighteen Mile Island so we could experience the half-dozen sets of rapids in the Five Mile Rapids section.  The Main Channel is the one the fur traders would have used. Also, the North Channel has quite a few more cottages along its shore and when canoe tripping, fewer cottages is always better!

Day 4 – Down the Five Mile Rapids Section of the Upper French River

Day 5 – From CS419 To Below Recollet Falls

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3. From Ox Bay At the Top of the Delta To Georgian Bay

  1. Once you paddle down the Gorge section to get to Ox Bay at the top of the Delta section of the river, you have five main channels or outlets to take you down to Georgian Bay. If you choose the Western Channel, you have three possible options –  a. the Bad River Channel;  b. the Old Voyageur Channel;  and c. the Voyageur Channel. Within these sub-channels, there are yet more possible routes!

The voyageurs used the Main Outlet (#4) and what we now call the Old Voyageur Channel (one of #5’s the Western Channel’s many outlets).

If this is your first time to Georgian Bay, you could take the historic Old Voyageur Channel with its one 10-meter portage at La Petite Faucille and the nice ride through the swifts at La Dalle.

french-river-delta

Our Choice: We chose the Fox Creek route to Georgian Bay since it was one we hadn’t done yet. The 2018 Henvey Inlet Fire had apparently reached as far as Fox Creek and we wanted to see how things looked a year later. It was definitely not used by the voyageurs! See below for a map of the Henvey Inlet Fire 2018 and east end of French River Provincial Park.

Days 6 and 7 – To Pickerel Bay and Down Fox Creek to Georgian Bay

Henvey Inlet Fire 2018 – and east end of French River Provincial Park

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4. The Return From Georgian Bay:

Return options to Hartley Bay include the Main Outlet, the other channel used by the voyageurs. Both are easier to deal with than the misnamed Voyageur Channel to the west of the Old Voyageur Channel.

The easiest return route from Georgian Bay to Ox Bay is the Eastern Outlet via Bass Creek and Bass Lake.

Once we got to Georgian Bay and spent a couple of days out on the Bustard Islands, we planned to head back to Hartley Bay and our vehicle via Bass Creek and the Eastern Outlet. We had already checked out the Bass Creek portages in 2017 and figured this would make for an easy return route with one easy portage and one lift-over.

What we did: Bad weather – rain and 30 km/hr winds – had us forego a visit to the Bustards. Instead we made use of the cross channel, an inside passage  across the delta,  to paddle to the westernmost campsite in the park and also paid a visit to a favourite camping spot of the voyageur brigades. We returned to Hartley Bay via the channel just to the east of the Old Voyageur Channel.

Days 8 and 9 – Across The French River Delta From East to West

Days 10 and 11 –  From Georgian Bay to Hartley Bay Marina

a safe inside passage route on a stormy day on Georgian Bay

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GPX/KMZ Files of our Route:

A GPX file of our route can be downloaded here: French River June 2019

Click here to access a kmz file of the 220-km route. You can open the file in the Earth app found within the Google Chrome browser.

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Historical Context For the Journey

Eric Morse. Fur trade Routes of Canada/Then and Now.

In his classic Fur Trade Routes of Canada/Then and Now (first edition in 1968), Eric Morse devotes a couple of pages to what he noted was a pleasant one-day run down the French River from Lake Nipissing by the Lake Superior-bound voyageurs. (Click on the title to access a  pdf file I created of the pages dealing just with the French River section.)

A free pdf download of the entire book is available from the Government of Canada Publications website.

A hard copy of the book is available at the Amazon site and would be at home on any keen wilderness canoe tripper’s bookshelf! (See Amazon.ca for more info.)

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Toni Harting. French River: Canoeing The River of the Stick Wavers

Tired of waiting in line for the one copy in the Toronto Library system of Toni Harting’s French River: Canoeing The River of the Stick Wavers (1996), I turned instead to Amazon and found a used copy. $20. (shipping included). A week later, I had my own copy of the single best source of information on the French River.

It has everything from geology to history to topography and canoe-specific information. While a few things have changed in the past quarter-century since it was written, it has aged well. Any time spent on the French can only be enriched by reading this well-researched book; Harting points out things that you’d never know otherwise as you paddle by. (Example: the Voyageur Channel is misnamed.  It was not used by the voyageurs as a way to get to Georgian Bay!)

BTW -The reference to “stick wavers” in the title refers to the Jesuits with their wooden crosses!

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Canoeing Ontario’s Rivers has been on my bookshelf for over thirty years and is one I have returned to often. The authors, Ron Reid and Janet Grand, highlight a couple of dozen Ontario river systems, providing insight into natural and human history that adds layers of context and enrichment to a simple canoe trip. The book includes a chapter on the French River  – The French: In The Wake of the Voyageurs.

Unfortunately, a hard copy of the book is difficult to find these days. The Toronto Public Libary system has one copy – and it is for reference only and cannot be signed out.

Luckily, the book is available on the Internet Archive website. A digital copy can be accessed for one hour at a time after a free sign-up. It is easy enough to take screenshots of the pages and then have a copy of the chapter to read at your leisure.

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An extract from Alexander Henry:

Alexander Henry’s Travels and Adventures 1760-1776 contains a brief account of his trip down the French River in 1761 when he was 21. First published in 1809, the book was meant by the veteran fur trader and merchant to set the record straight.

As the Dictionary of Canadian Biography explains:

Henry sensed, however, that new men were taking over the fur trade and in 1809 he wrote to Askin, “There is only us four old friends [James McGill*, Isaac Todd*, Joseph Frobisher, and himself] alive, all the new North westards are a parcel of Boys and upstarts, who were not born in our time, and suposes they know much more of the Indian trade than any before them.” To recapture his exciting past, he wrote a memoir of his life which he published in New York in 1809. Travels and adventures in Canada and the Indian territories, between the years 1760 and 1776 has become an adventure classic and is still considered one of the best descriptions of Indian life at the time of Henry’s travels. [See here for the entire Henry biography.]

Access a pdf file of the few pages that record Henry’s French River impressions.

Click here for a pdf file of the entire book, or go to archive.org here for yet more formats. You’ll find one great story after another, filled with perceptive details from what appears to be a very reliable narrator.

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John Macdonell’s Diary Entries From June 1793:

Macdonell’s Diary is included in Five Fur Traders of the Northwest, a 1933 collection of 18th C diaries edited by Charles M. Gates. In his entries, he recounts his journey from Montreal to Mackinac and then on to his first NorthWest Company job as a clerk at the Qu’Appelle post in Saskatchewan.

Click on the cover image or here to access a pdf extract from Macdonell’s entries dealing with the section from Lake Nipissing to Georgian Bay.

[See here for a 9 Mb pdf file of the text of the entire Macdonell diary.]

The above pdf files will make for some good canoe trip reading if you bring your iPad along!

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Daniel Harmon’s Journal  From April 1800 to 1819

Daniel Harmon was a  native of Vermont who, after a year spent in Montreal, joined the Northwest Co. as a clerk at 22 and was assigned to a post in western Canada.  

See Harmon – La Chine to Grand Portage for a pdf file of the first 18 pages of his journal. Covering the period from April 29 to July 14, 1800, he provides perceptive details on voyageur life and the route from Montreal to the west end of Lake Superior. His crew spent a day on The French River section of their journey! See also Chapter V of the Eric Morse book –

for a 1970s account of the voyageurs’ trip to the west end of Lake Superior.

Harmon’s entire journal can be accessed here.  It is a very readable account of the fur trader’s life, his observations of the people and cultures he encountered, and the nature of the trade he was engaged in.

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Memorable Campsites:

the view from CS 634 (old 633) on Pickerel Bay

Once in the Park, we camped at eight different official campsites. Some are genuinely memorable; a few, especially in the Upper French section north of Highway 69, are mediocre. Their use by fishing lodge clientele may also explain the beer cans, related mess, and multiple fire pits at some sites. We just kept paddling after a quick look at some sites and wondered who decided to put the campsites there.

For the record, our favourites were the following:

634 (old 633) – on the north side of Pickerel Bay across from the beginning of the Fox Creek route. There are incredible elevated views in all directions and an excellent spot to put our four-person tent.

503 (old 419) – a campsite after the Five Mile Rapids section of the Upper French

726 (old 920) – a sheltered island campsite in Fox Bay where we hunkered down for a storm that never came!

838 (old 822) – the westernmost campsite in the Park, though 832 (old 816) on Eagle Nest Point across the Bay has better views of Georgian Bay and Green Island Bay

There were some nice campsites in the Five Miles Rapids section of the river. Big Pine Rapids was one spot that comes to mind. The campsites are available on a “first come” basis with no need to pre-book as you do with other parks like Killarney. That is always a plus. If you avoid July and August, there should be no worries about finding a spot.

a view of the French River CS 503 (old 419) neighbourhood from the hilltop

sheltered 726 (old 920) campsite in Fox Bay on an overcast afternoon

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 Trip Conditions: 

the Kennedy island pictograph site – the entire collection of images

Water Levels:  This June, water levels on Lake Nipissing and the French River were quite high – a meter to 1.5 meters higher than usual. Portage take-out spots like the one at Recollet Falls were underwater; a stronger than usual current made paddling up some channels in the Delta area HIIT work-outs. Without a doubt, a September trip would eliminate some of our issues.

All in all, however, the French is a pretty mild river. There is only a 21-meter drop in water level from Lake Nipissing to Georgian Bay; half of that happens at the first portage, around the Portage Channel hydro-electric dam.

  • 196 m asl – Lake Nipissing
  • 185 m – below the Chaudiere Dam and the Portage Channel Hydro Dam
  • 180 m – below Five Mile Rapids
  • 180 m – Dry Pine Bay
  • 177 m – Ox Bay
  • 175 m – Georgian Bay

Wind:  Our planned paddle out to and back from the Bustard Islands did not happen, thanks to the fairly strong 30 km.+ wind and drizzle coming from the southwest. Instead, we spent a couple of days paddling inland from the Bay across the sheltered Cross Channel and going up and down some of the channels at the west end of the Park below Robinson Bay.  

Bugs: Given that it was June, we were expecting much worse! Our Eureka NoBugZone tent did get put up twice in ten days, mostly so we could refresh our memories on the best way to put it up!

We sat inside the tent just once, and that was to escape a shower which coincided with our first breakfast at Lafleche Point on Lake Nipissing!

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Cell Phone Coverage:

Along for the ride was our inReach Explorer+ with its two-way email communication and a once-every-ten-minute track uploaded to the Garmin website so the folks at home could follow along. We’ve come a long way since the unforgettable summer of 1981 when we said we’d be back in six or seven weeks and paddled from Pickle Lake to Attawapiskat without any contact. Now that was off the grid!

However, you don’t really need an inReach for a French River trip. Your cellphone will allow you to connect with the folks back home from most locations.

Bell cell coverage – 2025

 

We should have kept a record of the campsites where we could make phone calls! We were able to make a connection about 2/3rds. of the time. The Bell map below shows a large area – the Point Grondine Ojibwe territory to the west of the French River delta – without coverage. It shows coverage along the French River’s Main Channel right down to Ox Bay/Pickerel Bay.

Calls that we were able to make include:

  • campsite on Lafleche Point on the south shore of Lake Nipissing’s West Bay
  • CS 503 (old# 419): on the Main Channel of the Upper French below the Five Miles Rapids section

Access Bell’s coverage map here

  • CS634 (old #633): on Pickerel Bay not far from Ox Bay
  • CS726 (old #920) on Finger Island at the bottom of Fox Bay
  • CS804 (old #723) to the east of Whitefish Bay on the Georgian Bay Coast.
  • CS838 (old #822) at the west end of the Park.

An October 2022 comment (see the Comments section below) provided the following info about cell service – and “thunderboxes”:

  • old 706/new 688 – had 1 bar signal and did have a thunderbox
  • old 801/new 830 – no signal and no thunderbox (also saw a bear behind camp as we were paddling away)
  • old 724/new 805 – sketchy one bar of signal and no thunderbox (fresh bear poop by the canoes in the morning)
  • old 617/new 662 – 2 bars signal and did have a tricky to find in the dark thunderbox

If you’ve paddled the river, if you could email me (true_north@mac.com)  where you were able to make calls from – either campsite # or map location – that would be appreciated. Future paddlers will benefit. It is an added safety element in case of emergency, especially for those without off-the-grid devices like our Garmin inReach Explorer+ or the Spot Connect we used before.

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The following post will get you started on all the details of a short yet multi-faceted canoe trip we are glad we made!

Next Post: Day 1 – Lake Nipissing (West Bay) From Sucker Creek Landing To Lafleche Point

Lake Nipissing (West Bay) – Day 1 Sucker Creek to Lafleche Point – Day 1

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TV Ontario – Tripping The French River 

Released in April 2024, this TV Ontario documentary provides stunning 4K Ultra HD video of the French River with an effective mix of drone imagery as well as canoe-level views of the historical waterway.  Watching this will convince most canoe trippers that a trip down the French needs to be on that to-do list!

Click on the image to access the video.

The three-hour-long film is divided into the following smaller chronologically arranged segments that take you from the top to the bottom.

Note: The links no longer work but you may find the list of chapters and their locations useful.

  • 00:00 Sunrise and Tripping Start
  • 01:19 Lake Nipissing [Mouth of The French River]
  • 02:34 Title
  • 03:20 Canoe Pass
  • 04:55 Canoe POV: Quiet and Peaceful
  • 06:33 Bird’s Eye POV: Landing and Portage
  • 09:24 Trip Map [Lake Nipissing — Georgian Bay]
  • 12:45 Bird’s Eye POV: Launching the Canoe
  • 15:10 Canoe POV: Trees and Rock Tripe
  • 18:50 Animation: Beavers
  • 19:30 Canoe POV: Lilly pads and Beaver Facts
  • 26:22 Bird’s Eye POV: Tranquil Waters
  • 28:40 Canoe POV: Junipers and Greenery
  • 30:18 Kennedy Island
  • 32:50 Canoe POV: A Pictograph
  • 34:10 Trip Map [Chaudière Lodge — Five Finger Rapids]
  • 35:00 Canoe POV: Sport Fishing
  • 37:15 Chaudière Lodge
  • 38:26 Animation: Indigenous Canoers
  • 40:12 Bird’s Eye POV: Paddling Forward
  • 42:50 Five Mile Rapids
  • 43:34 Canoe POV: Through the Five Mile Rapids
  • 47:19 Canoe POV: Through More Rapids
  • 48:22 Bird’s Eye POV: On Calmer Waters 
  • 53:00 Canoe POV: Speckled Alders
  • 54:19 Canoe POV: Rapids
  • 57:00 Bird’s Eye POV: Paddling Onward
  • 1:01:50 Canoe POV: A Blue Heron Appears 
  • 1:05:31 Bird’s Eye POV: Approaching Five Finger Rapids
  • 1:09:42 Canoe POV: Just Around the Bend
  • 1:15:38 Five Finger Rapids
  • 1:21:56 Canoe POV: Rock Splinters
  • 1:25:39 Canoe POV: The French River in Autumn
  • 1:30:35 Bird’s Eye POV: Back to Summer
  • 1:33:08 The Lodge at Pine Cove
  • 1:37:39 Canoe POV: Cottages
  • 1:39:20 Animation: Champlain in Canoe
  • 1:40:01 French River Gorge
  • 1:40:15 Trip Map [CPR French River Bridge — Old French River Village]
  • 1:42:23 The French River in Winter
  • 1:42:55 The Green MacGilivray Bridge
  • 1:46:00 The French River in Summer
  • 1:46:46 Recollet Falls
  • 1:48:59 Camp Site 675 [East of Dalles Rapids]
  • 1:51:46 Animation: Alligator
  • 1:52:40 Bird’s Eye POV: Approaching the Rapids
  • 1:57:19 Dalles Rapids
  • 1:57:34 Canoe POV: Intense Ride through Dalles Rapids
  • 2:02:22 Animation: French River Village
  • 2:03:14 Eagle’s Nest
  • 2:08:18 Old Voyageur Channel
  • 2:13:00 Trip Map [Old Voyageur Channel — Lovers Lane]
  • 2:13:34 Canoe POV: Old Voyageur Channel and Water Striders
  • 2:20:10 Bird’s Eye POV: Islands
  • 2:23:26 Bird’s Eye POV: Portage 
  • 2:27:12 Canoe POV: Back in the Water
  • 2:33:25 Canoe POV: Water Lines in the Rocks
  • 2:43:46 Canoe POV: Approaching Fast Currents
  • 2:46:28 Canoe POV: Calmer Waters
  • 2:49:25 Devil’s Door Rapids
  • 2:52:34 Bird’s Eye POV: World’s Largest Freshwater Archipelago
  • 2:53:00 Canoe POV: Freshwater Islands
  • 2:55:46 Trip’s End
  • 2:58:14 Credits

 

 

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Kilimanjaro Via The Lemosho Route: Day 8 – High Camp To Mweka Gate

Previous Post: Day 7 – From Barafu To Uhuru Peak And Down To High Camp

High Camp (3827 m) was apparently established in 1999 when an emergency trail for those suffering from altitude sickness passed through here from Karanga (4034 m) on the way down to Mweka Gate. Exactly how a campsite only 200 meters lower than the one they were abandoning would help them deal with altitude sickness is not clear!

Team Popote at High Camp on Day 8 morning

We set off shortly before 8:00.  There would be some more altitude to lose!

  • High Camp: 3827 m/12,556 ft.
  • Mweka Camp: 3106m/10,190 ft.
  • Mweka Gate: 1633m/5358 ft.
  • Moshi: 880m/2890 ft.

By midafternoon we would be back in Moshi, some 3000 meters lower than our dining tent at High Camp on the southern slopes of Kilimanjaro. The distance is about 11.5 km. I didn’t even bother putting my Polar M430 GPS tracker on for the walk so no distance, elevation, or heart rate data for this last day.

a satellite view of the terrain from High camp to Mweka Gate – mostly forest after Mweka Camp

Over the next four hours, we would walk out of the moorland and into the montane forest. On the way, we’d deal with a variety of terrain, beginning with a descent of what looked like a seasonal stream bed.

The trail from High Camp To Mweka Camp

a half hour into the walk from High Camp to Mweka Camp

It took us an hour and a quarter to get to Mweka Camp from High Camp. With that, we were out of the moorland/heath terrain and into the cloud forest.  The tree cover provided some cool shade as we made our way down the steps that the Park staff have installed over the past few years. While some find them an annoying feature, it may be that they reduce erosion when water courses down the trail as a result of torrential downpours.

Mweka Camp signpost

the steps on the upper part of the trail from Mweka Camp to Mweka Gate

“The Old Man And The Tree” on the trail to Mweka Gate

Unlike our Day 1 walk to Mti Mkubwa (Big Tree) Camp, we did not see any wildlife on the side of the trail on our descent to Mweka Gate. About a half-hour from the end, we reached the road that comes up from the Rangers’ huts at Mweka Gate. Keen on getting to the end, I recall speeding up my pace a bit at this point.  The eventual reward – the sign below!

In the parking lot, there were a few buses jeeps waiting for their people to arrive. Our Popote bus was there too. Already on board were all the porters and camping gear and our duffels. The crew was undoubtedly just as keen on getting back to Moshi as we were! If we were thinking about showers and the next legs of our Africa adventure, they had more immediate concerns that a week’s salary and additional tip money would help them deal with.

The 40-minute drive back to Moshi took much less time than our drive to Londorossi Gate and the backtrack to Lemosho Glades at the start of our Kilimanjaro trek.  First, we drove to the Popote office where we waited a bit while our certificates were laminated.  I had already learned from my Mount Meru climb, that the Parks office hands out certificates with official stamps and signatures for those who make it to the top.  For Kilimanjaro, they have one for Uhuru Peak, one for Stella Point, and perhaps one for Gillman Point too.

We got back to the Parkview Inn by 3:00 p.m. and everyone headed for their rooms and showers.  The two oldsters – Mark and I – would relax at the Inn that evening while the youngsters were the star guests at a dance party somewhere nearby.  We learned the next morning that even they had called it a fairly early night (9:30!)!

By the next afternoon, only Mark and I remained at the Parkview, the others headed to either Mombasa and Kampala.  Mark would begin a five-day deluxe safari the next morning.  And that left me – by 9:30, I was on my way to the big town in the Kilimanjaro district, Arusha. I had planned to arrange a climb of Ol Donyoi Lengai with a travel agency there.  See what happened in the following post!

Next Post: On Safari In Tanzania: An Afternoon In Tarangire National Park

Some 40,000 – 50,000 people set off to “climb” Kilimanjaro each year.  I am working on a post which will deal with the question of how difficult it is to do – and perhaps the question of why do it at all!  I am still collecting my thoughts!

Coming soon: Climbing Kilimanjaro – Is It Difficult To Do?

Posted in Africa, hiking/trekking | Leave a comment

Kilimanjaro Via The Lemosho Route: Day 7 – To Uhuru Peak

Table of Contents:

Previous Post: Day 6 – Karanga To Barafu

Kilimanjaro Via The Lemosho Route: Day 6 – Karanga To Barafu

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Essential Data on the Uphill Hike to Uhuru

the uphill walk from Barafu to Uhuru Peak via Stella Point

Finally –  the climax of the trek – the walk uphill to Kibo’s rim at Stella Point and then along the rim a bit more to Uhuru Peak. Until after Stella Point, all  I have to show are:

  • the GPS track and the heart rate reading generated by my Polar M430 and
  • one single image – the shot below, which I took at 2:45 a.m.!

  • Distance to the summit from Barafu Camp: 5.1 km.
  • Time: 6 hrs. 15 minutes to the summit; 2 hr. 35 min. back to Barafu Camp
  • Altitude gain: 1225m/4019ft.

Kilimanjaro summit morning 2:45 a.m.

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Preparing For The Summit Hike

Wake-up was at 11 p.m.  I had slept a little, and when I wasn’t, I was listening to the wind blowing hard and hoping it would not be doing that for the duration of our climb up the exposed slope of the mountain.  I had packed everything for the walk to the summit earlier that evening to avoid any last-minute panic.

My spare camera batteries were already in the chest pocket of my wool base layer.  Before exiting my tent, I packed everything I would not need into the duffel and locked up the zipper.  Our tents would remain standing for our estimated 9:00 to 10:00  a.m. return when we would crawl in for a brief rest.

It was pitch dark.  I left the tent and went to the dining tent for tea and some cookies.  While we waited for the signal to start our midnight adventure,  bottles and bladders were filled with hot water.  Going up with the five of us would be the three guides and – to provide extra emergency support – two of the lead porters, Fella and George.

the trail from Barafu to Stella Point and Uhuru Peak

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Midnight Departure From Our Dining Tent

We started off shortly after midnight.  Already visible on the slopes was a string of headlamps bobbing up and down.  Occasionally, I would glance up and see something much brighter – a star above Kibo.  I focused on the legs of the person ahead of me and walked into the zone of light created by my headlamp.

The wind was still blowing hard from the SE, and we would feel its full force every time the switchback trail turned in its direction.  The temperature was below freezing; I had on multiple layers to keep in my body heat!

On the bottom, I had on my warmest fleece long johns, my nylon trekking pants, and my Goretex rain pants.  On top, the four layers included a fleece base layer, a wool layer, a synthetic insulation layer, and my goose-down jacket.  My head was covered with a balaclava, a wool hat, and the two hoods of my top jackets.  I would detach the goose-down hood and give it to Fella soon into the walk.

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Walking In The Dark  Up To Stella Point

We took a few breaks on our way up.  Amazingly, we eventually walked past all but one of those strings of light that we had seen on our departure.  In retrospect, we made excellent progress even if we didn’t feel it then!  During one break, I did something I had never done before on a summit hike – I accessed my workout playlist on my iPhone and started listening to some music.  It really seemed to help and gave me something else to focus on.

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From Stella Point To Uhuru Peak

At about 5:30, we got to Stella Point, the point where the trail comes up to the crater rim.  It was still dark, so I did not bother to take any photos; I figured I’d get some on the way back.  And then a bit of confusion  – one of our trekking group had flopped down on the ground thinking that this was Uhuru Peak!  We rested for a few minutes and moved on.

Stella Point to Uhuru peak

Thirty-five minutes later, we were at what all the travel brochures call the Roof of Africa!  There was one other party there already.  We watched as they went through many different variations of photos –

  • of trekkers only,
  • of guides only,
  • of trekkers and guides,
  • of everybody with banners,
  • solo shots…

Meanwhile, we took in the 360º view from the spot we had been looking at for the past week.

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Watching Sunrise From Uhuru Peak

Shortly after we arrived at Uhuru Peak, the sun came up, and the camera came out!  The sky was brightening with the just-rising sun.  I looked towards Mawenzi, Kilimanjaro’s other peak and got the image below.  It was 6:21 a.m.

sunrise to the east of Kibo on Mount Kilimanjaro

Then I turned west to look at the distant profile of Mount Meru,  a trek to whose summit I had used as an acclimatization hike for this walk to Uhuru Peak.

looking west from Uhuru Peak – a sunrise panorama

Behind us, other trekkers were approaching Uhuru Peak and the signboard that marks the spot.  They would soon be waiting for us while we did a photo session, not unlike the one we were watching unfold!

trekkers approaching Uhuru Peak from Stella Point

a satellite view of the top of Kibo with Mawenzi in the background to the east

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Can-Am Summit Team Photo Time

Shortly after 6:30  – photo time for our Canadian/American summit team!

The Popote Team group photo at Uhuru Peak – 6:31

We were up by the signboard for about 15 minutes and by 6:35, had already begun our return to Stella Point.  Everyone had made it, and if anyone wasn’t feeling 100%, it was not evident.  Our Popote crew had taken good care of us on the way up, setting a pole pole (slowly, slowly in Swahili) pace and taking on extra stuff in their packs so ours would be a bit lighter.

If we felt elation at having “conquered” Kilimanjaro – such a military metaphor that harkens back to another age – then the Popote guys were relieved not to have faced any complications and satisfied that they had helped us reach our goal.

group photo – Popote team on Kibo top – from Mary Ella’s files

From our vantage point next to the Uhuru Peak signboard, I turned towards that chunk of ice to the west,  a remnant of the Southern Icefield.  In the photo below, it is lit up by the rising sun.

a glacial remnant to the west of Uhuru Peak

And beyond the glacier remnant, there was Meru again.

a sunrise view of Mount Meru from Uhuru Peak

our three guides waiting for the signal to go back down to Stella Point – 6:32

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History Of The Uhuru Peak Sign

The iconic sign at the top of Kibo on Mount Kilimanjaro figures in thousands of photos that celebrate good luck, personal achievement, and the will to see something through to the very top!  The signboard itself has gone through some changes over time.  After a few minutes with the Google image search function, I came up with these –

The Original Signboard

  1. The original version of the sign with the boards neatly horizontal.  Given the stickers, it has been there for a while!

Uhuru Peak sign with four horizontal boards

The Missing Bottom Board

By 2011, the sign had lost the bottom board.  While someone looking for a unique souvenir may be responsible, it likely got blown away in a severe windstorm.

Draping the bottom of the sign in this image is a set of Tibetan Buddhist prayer flags, always a nice touch on mountaintop shrines worldwide!

See my post: Blowin’ In The Wind: An Appreciation of Tibetan Buddhist Prayer Flags

The Ramshackle Signboard

The board below was there before January 2012.  It now had all four boards again, all somewhat off-kilter.  The box at its foot had a registry book in it where trekkers would leave their names.  Yet other images have a larger registry box elevated from the ground and stretching across the entire width of the sign’s support posts.  This sign is the most common one in photos, perhaps because it coincides with the emergence of smartphone photography!

the old Uhuru Peak signboard with the box

The New and Improved Green and Yellow Signboard!

 (2012-2014)

In late 2011/early 2012, the Park officials replaced the iconic sign with the new one pictured below.  It was not embraced with enthusiasm by the trekkers who made it to the top!  They did not want bland and neat – they wanted the old, classic, and iconic sign that had been there before!

the short-lived Green Uhuru Peak signboard

The New Old Sign!  Since mid-2014

By mid-2014, the feedback had been negative enough that the green/yellow sign was removed and replaced with one which looked much like the first one above, right down to the askew third horizontal board.  There is no registry box at the foot of the sign, but someone has been good enough to fasten a set of prayer flags to the bottom of the posts.

the Uhuru Peak signboard in January 2019

Since my 2019 visit

a board with a painted Tanzanian flag has been placed on the sign.  it now looks like this –

Ultimate Kilimajaro blog image - see here for source

Ultimate Kilimanjaro blog image – see here for the source

The snow cover certainly gives the image an entirely different feel!

If you have a recent Uhuru Peak signboard image which shows more changes, if you send it to me at true_north@mac.com I’ll post it here!

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The Almost-Gone Glaciers of Kilimanjaro

There is a bit of ice and snow at the top of Kilimanjaro’s Kibo, but not as much as I expected.  An estimated 85% of the glacial covering has disappeared in the past 100 years.  Amazing to think that most of the glacial ice just turns into vapour and not the streams I pictured pouring down the mountain’s slopes!

Here are three images of the glacier cover on top of Kibo.  The first shows how it looked in the early 1970s; the other two are satellite images from 2002 and 2019.

1.  Early 1970s:

Kilimanjaro – Kibo glacier coverage map – early 1970’s

2.  December 30, 2002

Kilimanjaro Kibo top glacier cover 12/30/2002

3.  February 19, 2019

Kibo/Kilimanjaro glacier cover as of February 2019

Feb. 2019 – another angle

the Snows of Kilimanjaro - gone within my lifetime - i.e.2035

the Snows of Kilimanjaro – gone within my lifetime – i.e.2035

The satellite images show the ever-shrinking Northern, Southern, and Eastern Icefields and the disappearing Furtwangler Glacier near Crater Camp.

The image below shows the ice patch to the SW of the Uhuru Peak signboard.  I also took a photo of it when we first arrived – see a few images above for the shot.

another view of a remnant of the Southern Icefield to the SW of Uhuru Peak

Fifty years ago, there were glaciers on the southern slopes of Kilimanjaro with names like Diamond, Balletto, Heim, Kersten, and Decken.  And now?  Not much more than the glacial patch you see in the image above.

Looking back to Uhuru Peak – our lead guide Dixon coming down – at 6:50 a.m.

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The Furtwangler Glacier & Crater Camp

When we neared Stella Point on our descent from Uhuru Peak, I turned back to the north and got the next shot.  It shows some recent snowfall and what is left of the Furtwangler Glacier on the middle left side of the image.  I wish I had done better documenting what is still up there.

Here is an internet-sourced image of the section inside the box.  It was taken in 2014, and the perspective is a bit different, but it captures the Furtwangler Glacier nicely.  The Northern Icefield has receded somewhat over the past five years.  As for the Furtwangler, it is losing some of its current 15-meter (50 ft)  thickness each year.

2014 image of the Furtwangler

When I first considered the various routes up to the top of Kilimanjaro, I was attracted to one that included a night at Crater Camp, located not far from the Furtwangler Glacier.  A trip report highlighting the absolute mess Crater Camp has become, thanks to the lack of sewage disposal, turned me off the idea.  Also, if an ascent of Kilimanjaro is already rapid by most acclimatization protocols, then a night at Crater Camp at 5700 meters just compounded the potential problems.

The image below – internet-sourced – with the person standing in the middle of the Furtwangler Glacier’s interior gets across the glacier’s thickness – perhaps 15 meters.  I am not sure when the photo was taken;  we can expect it to shrink another meter each year.  By 2035 it should be gone!

inside the Furtwangler glacier

We were soon back down at Stella Point and walking past a group of just-arrived trekkers celebrating the success of this stage of their journey.  I spoke there with an American trekker who had spent the night at Crater Camp with his wife.  She had exhibited worsening altitude sickness symptoms for the past few hours, so they were making their descent to Barafu Camp.  Their guides were carrying their packs.  Unfortunately, they had left their walk up to Uhuru Peak for this morning.  Now they were on their way down without having done it.  That must have hurt!

Stella Point signboard – time 7:00 a.m.

Like the signboard up at Uhuru Peak, this new copy of the old one has also replaced the unpopular yellow/green version that only lasted a couple of years.

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The Walk Back To Barafu Camp

And then the descent.  If walking uphill on scree is awkward, it is even more so on the way down.  We would lose 1200 meters in 2 1/2 hours and eat a lot of dust being kicked up.  You have two choices –

  •  get in front of the line so no one is kicking up dust ahead of you, or
  • take a break every once in a while to put some distance between you and those ahead of you.

I found the first option to be the better one!

The photo below was taken perhaps fifteen minutes into our descent from Stella Point.  Already visible in the image is Barafu Camp, with its tents just to the right of the flat hilltop in the middle of the picture.  You can even see the summit trail crossing that stretch of flatness.

The return from Uhuru Peak to Barafu Camp – 7:04 a,m.

On the way down, I peeled off successive layers of clothing, top and bottom.  It was a beautiful sunny morning on the slopes of Kilimanjaro, a lot different from the cold and windy early morning we had spent on our way up to the crater rim.

looking up the trail towards the crater rim and Stella Point

By 9:00, we were all back in camp, receiving congrats and a cup of juice from one of the porters who had remained in camp.  The juice went down easy and reminded me that I hardly had anything to drink for the past nine hours!

Before leaving camp at midnight, I filled my one-litre Nalgene bottle and my two-litre bladder with hot water.  One litre of water weighs 1 kg. or 2.2 lbs.  I had carried 3 kg./6.6 lbs. of water up the hill.  Of that, I drank 1/2 litre!  I carried 2.5 litres (5.5 lbs) for nothing!

Bartafu Camp coming up – the return from Uhuru Peak

We spent a leisurely morning at our campsite, relaxing in our tents or basking in the sunshine.  My boots and base layers were drying out in the sun.  My water intake had also increased to compensate for the lack of intake over the past nine hours!

The trail to the ranger’s hut and the registration book passed right by the Popote campsite.  I watched as a large group of maybe twenty trekkers filed by.  They were going to sign in at the hut.  At midnight, it would be their summit time.

As I scanned their faces, I was sure I saw one or two trekkers who looked at least a year or two older than Mark and me!

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From Barafu Camp To High Camp

from Barafu (4660 meters) to High Camp (3827 meters)

another view of the trail from Barafu Camp To  High or Millenium Camp

We left Barafu Camp shortly after noon.  The usual post-summit itinerary for groups who have done the Lemosho, the Machame, or the Umbwe routes is to descend via the Mweka route to Mweka Gate.  It is a 16-km/10-m walk to the end, and, given the morning’s massive energy expenditure,  the distance is divided into two days.  Trekking groups will either stop for the night at

  • High Camp (aka Millennium or Rescue Camp) at 3827m/12,556 ft. – about 4.2 km
  • Mweka Camp at 3106m/10,190 ft.  –  about 6.5 km from Barafu

and then finish the trek the next morning.

Our target was High Camp, increasingly the site chosen by trekking groups thanks to an accessible water source.  It doesn’t hurt that it is also an hour or so less far than Mweka Camp.

  • At 6:30 a.m., we were at 5895 m at Uhuru Peak
  • by mid-afternoon, we’d be at 3827m at High Camp!

Everyone was in high spirits as we set off.  Someone commented – “Just think how we’d be feeling  going down if we hadn’t made it to the top!” We all agreed it would hurt to have invested so much time, energy, and money and not quite – for whatever reason –  getting to the summit.

About twenty minutes into our afternoon walk, I looked back and got a shot of Barafu camp.  After that, I put away my camera and focused on the steady downward path.

I had burned up almost 5000 calories getting to the summit and then returning to Barafu in the morning.

The afternoon proved to be much less stressful – though that 519 kcal figure seems much too low.  Then again, it was a very easy downhill walk!

the High Camp signboard – the elevation figures I use come from the Stedman guidebook

By 3:00, we were at High Camp and – as always – found the Popote camp all set up on our arrival.  Most of the crew who did not make the ascent enjoyed a few hours off at Barafu while their guests set off at midnight for Uhuru Peak.  Now they had one more morning of hauling, and their job would be done.

Next Post: Day 8 – High (Millennium) Camp to Mweka Gate

Kilimanjaro Via The Lemosho Route: Day 8 – High Camp To Mweka Gate

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Kilimanjaro Via The Lemosho Route: Day 6 – Karanga To Barafu

Table of Contents:

Previous Post: Day 5 – Barranco To Karanga

Kilimanjaro Via The Lemosho Route: Day 5 – Barranco To Karanga

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The Basic Data of the Day’s Walk

  • Distance: 3 km.
  • Time spent walking: 2 hr. 30 min.
  • altitude at Karanga Camp: 4034 m/13235′
  • altitude at Barafu Camp: 4662 m/15295′
  • ecological zone – alpine desert

The stats above show how my body dealt with the day’s walk.  Compared to the previous day, we covered 2.3 km less distance and spent 1:40 hr. less time doing it.  However, the calorie burn was only 15% less – thanks to the almost continuous uphill we faced.  The steepest sections would be at the start of the day and at the end as we approached our tent site.

The red line on the satellite image below is the track we took on Day 6 of our Kili trek.  Over the three-kilometer distance that we walked, we would gain 600 meters in altitude by the time we reached our Popote campsite at Barafu Camp.

Lemosho Route Day 6 – Karanga To Barafu

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Breaking Camp

It was another beautiful morning in the neighbourhood as we gathered in the dining tent shortly after 7.  The sun was out, and there was little wind.  We had clear views of Kilimanjaro’s summit and Mount Meru, some eighty kilometers to the west.

a morning view of Kilimanjaro’s Kibo from our Karanga campsite

a view of Mount Meru from our Karanga Campsite

the members of our Popote trekking team getting ready for the walk to Barafu

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Up and Over the Hump

From the Karanga Camp, there is an initial uphill section to deal with.  It is up and over the hill with a nice bit of downhill or flat as a reward – as shown in the photos below,  the first of which shows one of our guides, Yusuph, watching as various members of the Popote team head downwards.

From Karanga (4034m) To Barafu (4662m)

Our guide Yusuph watches as one of our porters passes by

Thirty minutes later, that spot on the trail where Yusuph was standing was on the distant ridge on the top third of the image.  I sat there and watched the porters with their double carries – backpacks on their shoulders (but without the use of hip belts) and bags on their heads and wondered if having that weight on top of the heads was actually effective.

While providing some interesting background info, this Wikipedia article (see here) still left me wondering!

looking back at the trail from Karanga Camp

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East Towards The Barafu Camp

Turning around from the porters coming my way, I faced east and saw the Barafu Campsite on the top of the ridge.  While it looked fairly close, it would take about 90 minutes and another 400 meters uphill to get there.

approaching Barafu Camp on Day 6 of our Kilimanjaro trek

As we approached the Camp, I wondered about the name Barafu.  In Swahili, it means “ice.”  I thought that there was a time when the glacier reached down to the 4600-meter level and thus gave the Camp its name was wrong.  Later that afternoon, I would read in my copy of Stedman’s Kilimanjaro that “the camp is probably called this because of its proximity to Rebmann Glacier, away to the north-west.”

Well, there is certainly no ice at Barafu. But there was wind – and it would only pick up as the afternoon turned into evening.

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Barafu Camp & The Ranger’s Hut

Barafu Camp on Mount Kilimanjaro – the lower section

Given the number of trekking parties at Barafu, the campsite area goes up the ridge for some distance.  We walked through the lower Barafu tent sites and continued towards the ranger’s hut.  The Popote Camp was located near the hut and behind some rocks that provided a bit of a windscreen.

signboards in front of the Barafu park rangers’ hut

The mandatory ritual of the day – the sign-in at the ranger’s hut – done, we took in the scene – the fellow trekkers, the guides, the tents – and could feel a special buzz in the air.  This was the spot we had spent six days curling around and up the slopes of Kilimanjaro to get to.

Barafu park rangers’ hut – and sign-in counter

Staring at the ranger’s trekker registration book, I scanned through the day’s list of signatures and the countries of origin associated with each.  There was one more detail I looked for – the age of each trekker.  I did a second scan when I did not find anyone older than the two 67-year-olds on our Popote trekking team!  “No way!” I thought.  It meant that for a very brief moment Mark, my fellow trekker from California, and I might be (FWIW!) the two oldest guys on the top of Kilimanjaro the next morning!

a view of Kibo from the sign-in counter at the Barafu park rangers’ hut

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A View of Mawenzi

Behind the ranger’s hut and to the east sits Mawenzi, one of Kilimanjaro’s three volcanic cones.  It is also the third highest peak in Africa at 5148 meters, only 51 meters lower than Batian Peak on Mount Kenya.

Kibo and Mawenzi Peaks on Mount Kilimanjaro

Unlike the walk to the top of Kibo, the climbs to the top of Mawenzi and Mt. Kenya’s highest peak require some mountaineering skills.  In speaking with our guides, it was clear that they had never taken on a climb of Mawenzi.  Googling for more information on how to climb Mawenzi, I came up with very little except for this summitpost.org entry from 2004!

Kibo and Mawenzi –  a satellite view from the east with Mawenzi in the foreground

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Thinking About The Final Push to the Top

Mawenzi – an interesting diversion, but we had our own summit to worry about!  Well, not precisely worry, but it still had to be done.  This was not my first time at this altitude – the year before, I had walked up and over Saribung La in the Himalayas.  It was 160 meters higher than Uhuru Peak.  My walk to the top of Chimborazo (6240) in Ecuador back in 2009 was the highest I will ever get to.  On that same trip, I also climbed Cotopaxi, which is just a bit higher than Kibo.  A Cordillera Blanca climb had also taken me to 6034.

In six days of easy to moderate walking from Lemosho Glades (2389 m/7838′) to Barafu Camp (4662 m/15295′), we had gone up 2273 m/ 7457′  in altitude.  All five of us were doing fine; no one had exhibited any signs of altitude sickness.

Still, you never know how your body will react to the increasing altitude.  We just had to relax – and try to sleep – until our 11:00p.m. wake-up and then start our walk in the dark.

our tents at Barafu campsite – with Mawenzi to the east

On our ascent, we would be accompanied by our three guides – Dixon, Yusuph, and Majura.  Also along for the climb were Fella and George, the two members of the Popote team who had taken care of us in the dining tent, bringing in the food from the cook tent, providing us with hot water – anything they could do to make things easy and comfortable for us.  So – five trekkers and five support staff.

the Popote Camp at Barafu – dining and cook tents

The nightly blood oxygen saturation level and pulse rate readings had become a ritual we looked forward to!  The finger pulse oximeter would go around the table, and the results would be recorded.

However, we did not do the oximeter readings at Barafu!  Perhaps the thought was that the blood oxygen saturation readings might be slightly lower than the 90+ we had scored on the previous two evenings.  Why give us another thing to worry about as we went off to our tents after supper and tried to get some rest before our midnight wake-up call?

Coming up – the single most challenging section of our Kilimanjaro adventure, the six to seven-hour walk up to Stella Point in the dark.  Barafu is at the bottom left of the satellite image below; Uhuru Peak is at the top right.  Of course, we would not see a thing as we would do it in all but total darkness except the light of our headlamps!

In six hours, we would gain 50% of the altitude we had gained in the first six days of the trek!   With sunset, the temperature dropped towards freezing, and the wind had gotten worse…much worse.  I may have slept an hour or two!

the trail from Barafu to Stella Point and Uhuru Peak

Next Post: Day 7 – From Barafu To Uhuru Peak To High (And Down to Millenium Camp)

Kilimanjaro Via The Lemosho Route: Day 7 – To Uhuru Peak

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Kilimanjaro Via The Lemosho Route: Day 5 – Barranco To Karanga

Previous Post: Day 4 – Shira 2 To Barranco

Overview:

On Day 4 we had walked a bit over ten kilometers on our most demanding day so far.  This day would see us scale back on the distance by almost half – and yet it would still be a fairly demanding day in its own way since there are two steep uphills involved – the first at the beginning of the day and the other at the very end as you walk the switchback trail up to Karanga campsite on the top of the ridge.  That is when I hit the max 140 bpm you see in the stats below!

  • altitude at Barranco Camp: 3986 m/13077′
  • altitude at the top of the Barranco Wall: 4219 m/13842′
  • altitude at Karanga Camp: 4034 m/ 13235′

When it was all over we were only 50 meters higher than we had been at Barranco!

It should be noted that this is where some itineraries (see here for an example)  save a day by continuing on to the Barafu campsite, another 2:30 worth of walking and with a demanding training load of its own. Our extra day on the mountain before our summit attempt is at least one of the factors that explains why all five of us made it up.

satellite view – Barranco to Karanga

The satellite image above gives an overview of the day’s route from Barranco camp to Karanga. The next day’s campsite, Barafu at 4600 meters, is visible on the right-hand side of the image. The day starts with a five-minute walk down to and over the stream flowing down the Barranco ravine.  That is when the fun begins!

Down to The Floor Of The Barranco Ravine:

Kilimanjaro porters heading for the Barranco Wall

As you stand there on the floor of the ravine you look up at a fairly steep rock wall that will require some scrambling and the occasional hands-on-rock. Mind you, nothing technical and certainly do-able given the existence of an actual trail up the slope and the ready help of one of our guides if we needed it.

Barranco Camp, Ravine, and Wall

In the image below is the large boulder you walk by as you begin the scramble up Barranco Wall. Also evident are the first of the giant groundsel – Dendrosenecio kilimanjari. They seem to thrive on the east side of the ravine, perhaps because of the shade provided by the wall and the water source running past. I had the feeling I was walking in another world – I thought back to the planet of Pandora on the set of James Cameron’s Avatar!  But no – definitely of this world.  I just need to get around more!

Zoom in on the image and you will see colourful trekker gear at various spots on the Wall.  That is your clue as to where the trail is heading!

Up the Barranco Wall:

About a third of the way I looked back to our Barranco campsite on the other side of the ravine.  And then I focused on some more immediate action: I looked down to see one of our team members was embracing the Kissing Rock on her way across a narrow part of the trail.

a look back our Day 4 tent site at Barranco Camp from somewhere on the Barranco Wall

The Kissing Rock on the Barranco Wall – one of our crew gives it a hug

While not in the same league as the line-ups below the Hilary Step on Mount Everest, there were occasional slowdowns as people less confident about their scrambling skills moved cautiously forward and upward.  The porters (and there were certainly a few on this stretch!)  dodged the trekkers by using secondary trails and sidesteps when necessary.

More than once, I celebrated my imminent arrival at the very top – just to be disappointed when yet another ridge higher up appeared when I got there.  Here is one such spot – getting closer but not quite there yet!  Still – a reason for a brief rest since the worst of the scramble was over, the sun was out, and it was a beautiful day near the top of the Barranco Wall.

And, of course, some eighty kilometers to the west the profile of Mount Meru!

Mount Meru some 80 kilometers to the west of Kilimanjaro

The porters did not stop at our rest stop; they kept on truckin’ up the Wall.  As always, seeing their loads move ahead and above us served as route guides for us. Ah, so that’s where the trail goes!

group photo time at the top of the Barranco Wall

Getting to the Top of the Barranco Wall:

approaching the top of the Barranco Wall

Finally, a summit that was not false!  There was almost a party atmosphere when we arrived at the plateau on the top of the Barranco Wall. Jackets came off, sunscreen was applied, water bottles and snacks came out of the backpacks, cellphones and more serious cameras were busy snapping photos of team members standing on the edge of the Wall or off Kilimanjaro’s summit to the east.  We were 230 meters higher than we had been at Barranco Camp at the start of the day – and maybe 270 from the floor of the ravine by the big boulder and the groundsel.

relaxed trekkers at the end of their Barranco Wall climb

a morning view of Kilimanjaro summit from the top of the Barranco Wall

The Trail To Karanga:

And then it was back on the trail – some easy walking down a gentle slope with mostly desert alpine terrain occasionally hosting those giant groundsels we had seen at the start of the Barranco Wall scramble.

traffic on the trail down from the Barranco Wall – the trail to Karanga

a stand of groundsel on the side of the trail to Karanga from Barranco Wall

a section of the downhill trail to Karanga Camp from Barranco Wall

I knew we were almost at Karanga when I walked into the image below.  Karanga sits on the top of the ridge in the background.  Unfortunately, in between was a steep ravine.

our first view of Day 5 camp – Karanga

Karanga campsite on the top of the ridge – steep approach trail

The image below has the floor of the Karanga Valley  (3947 m) in the foreground.  In the background is the slope we had just scampered down.  The stream running down the valley is the last source of water for Kilimanjaro trekkers and porters will have to haul it from here back up to the Karanga camp and to the next camp at Barafu (4662 m)!

trekkers taking a breather at the end of the steep descent to the floor of the Karanga Valley

No more pix after we reached the floor of the Karanga Valley. My brain switched into “git ‘er dun” mode and I forgot all about my camera. I just wanted to get up to the top. Later, when I looked at my heart rate record for the day, it was this section up to the campsite that had me pushing myself the most.  I hit a maximum of 140.

panorama of Kilimanjaro Day 5 Camp – Karanga (4034 m)

The Karanga campsite is a rather desolate spot on the top of the ridge.  when we got there, as was always the case, our Popote crew had already erected the sleeping tents and put our respective duffel bags in the right tents; the guides’ and crews tents, the dining and the cook tents were also up.  and on the left-hand side of our campsite in the photo below you can see our beige toilet tent.  We were home for the evening!

Some Advice On Choosing A Route and An Itinerary:

As mentioned above, some trekking groups press on and in another 2 1/2 to 3 hours, arrive at Barafu Camp, the last camp before the summit. In effect, they eliminate one day of the trek.  Not only do they have a very demanding day before the summit, but they also arrive at Barafu around 4 or 5 o’clock with the even more demanding summit attempt to start seven hours later.

Yes, they save the cost of one extra day on the mountain.  But consider the real cost.  They also reduce their chance of a successful summit!  If you are considering a Kilimanjaro trek, you will want to sign up for one that takes longer – and not less – time.  While I can’t say for sure that the following stats are absolutely reliable and accurate, here are the success rates that one agency gives at its website:

  • 8-day   85%
  • 7-day   64%
  • 6-day   44%
  • 5-day   27%

The eight-day Lemosho is an excellent choice. It sets you up at Barafu Camp on Day 6 shortly after noon with lots of time to relax before you crawl out of your tent just before midnight for the single-most demanding day of your trek.

our Popote campsite at Karanga – Day 5 of our Kilimanjaro trek

Next Post: Day 6 – Karanga To Barafu.

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Kilimanjaro Via The Lemosho Route: Day 4 – Shira 2 To Barranco

Previous Post: Day 3 – Shira 1 to Shira 2

Another day on the slopes of Kilimanjaro – and another clear early morning view of the summit of Kibo.  There was frost on the tent exterior when we got up at about 6:30.  We were in the dining tent around 7, and ready to start the day’s walk shortly before 8. We were gradually making our way around the mountain from the west to the south side. (See the satellite image below for the trail we would follow for the next three days.)

This day would be, next to summit day, the longest and most strenuous day of the trek. From Shira 2 camp we would walk 6.9 km/4.5 mi up to Lava Tower (4627m/15180ft) for lunch and then back down to Barranco Camp at 3966m/13077ft. The Polar M430 calories burned stats for the first four days read like this –

  • Day 1     938 kcal        5.42 km        2:32      109 bpm average   reasonable    2/5
  • Day 2    1920 kcal       7.74 km        4:41      111 bpm average     very demanding   4/5
  • Day 3    1134 kcal       8.07 km        4:00     101 bpm average     reasonable   2/5
  • Day 4    2185 kcal      10.21 km       4:58      112 bpm average    very demanding   4/5

Shortly into the day’s walk, I turned around to the west for the day’s view of Meru.  For sure the others I was hiking with did not have the emotional connection I did with the bump on the horizon. The three days I had spent summiting it the week before meant I was looking at an old friend!

looking back at Shira 2 from the trail to Barranco – that is Meru on the horizon

As I zoomed into Meru’s profile, I could make out the little bump on the right, that of  Little Meru. We had spent an hour on a beautiful sunny day sitting up there and looking east to Kilimanjaro and up towards the summit we would be doing a few hours later.

Meru from above Shira 2 Camp on Kilimanjaro

Our walk on the Shira plateau was coming to an end but not before a morning’s worth of gentle uphill to Lava Tower, where we would have lunch. Along the way, our trail would merge with the one from the Machame Route and the relative solitude we had experienced for the first three days would be replaced by the increased traffic of trekkers and guides and porters.

on the trail towards Lava Tower from Shira 2

Spending time at Lava Tower makes for an excellent acclimatization exercise.  It is 700 meters higher than Shira 2 camp. As the images above and below make clear, we were definitely in the alpine desert zone now. If anything was growing it was probably lichen!

the trail to Lava Tower from Shira 2 – the final stretch

approaching Lava Tower on the Lemosho Trail

a last short break before the climb to Lava Tower is done

Just behind the Lava Tower is a flat plateau;  some groups actually use it as one of their campsites.  When we got there a number of tents were up.  Amazingly, those included a couple of our Popote tents!  Our support team had walked ahead of us and set up the cook tent and the dining tent. When we arrived,  tea and munchies were sitting on the table ready for us!

We spent a bit over an hour up behind Lava Tower in our dining tent.  It was somewhat fogged in and damp but sitting in the tent provided some warmth and shelter from the wind.

Having gained 700 meters of altitude in the morning, we were about to lose it all in the afternoon!  The satellite image below shows the trail from Lava Tower down to Barranco Camp.

Our afternoon walk started with a steep downhill to the bottom of the gully – a mini-version of the much larger ravine above which our next camp would be located.  When I asked Dixon where the word Barranco came from he told me it was the Spanish word “ravine”.  It did leave me wondering how a Spanish word got stuck to the side of Kilimanjaro – but then, given words like Kosovo Camp and Rebmann Glacier and Fischer Campsite, it is yet more evidence of Kilimanjaro’s global reach.

A steep eighty-meter drop from Lava Tower – as in the image above – and then it was up the other side of the gully to the top of the ridge – as illustrated in the following two images.

looking back at Lava Tower after lunch – on the way to Barranco

trekkers taking a break before the climb to the ridge ahead – Barranco 3 km.. away

Once we got to the top of the ridge – see the image above – it was downhill all the way to our camp for the night, Barranco. I lengthened my trekking poles a few inches for extra stability and let gravity do its thing as I went down at a faster pace than usual.  Forty-five minutes later I got my first view of the campsite at 3986m/13,077ft.

While we were only 147 meters/482 feet higher than we had been at Shira 2 Camp at the start of the day, we had gained some valuable acclimatization time.

Barranco Camp signpost and the ranger’s hut

the Popote cook and dining tents – and a view of the final bit of the trail from Lava Tower

the Barranco Camp on Kilimanjaro’s slope – upper level

The campsites on the first three days of the Lemosho Route had been almost empty. Now that our route had merged with the Machame route,  campsites would be much busier all the way to the one before the summit.

We had some time to contemplate the next morning’s big event, the scamper up the Barranco Wall, aka “The Breakfast Wall” since it is the first objective after leaving camp. The “Wall” is essentially the other side of the ravine.  From our campsite, it looked somewhat intimidating.  We wouldn’t have to wait very long to find out!

the trail going steeply up to Lava Tower and on down to Barranco

The satellite image above shows the southern slopes of Kilimanjaro above Barranco.  Apparently 100,000 years ago a massive piece of the upper section of the mountain came sliding down the slopes and created the ravine – the Barranco – we now see.

the Barranco Wall across from the Barranco Campsite

the Barranco Wall up close with some of the trail visible

Next Post: Day 5 – Barranco To Karanga

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Kilimanjaro Via The Lemosho Route: Day 3 – Shira 1 to Shira 2

Previous Post: Day 2 – From Mti Mkubwa To Shira 1

Day 2 ended with a walk down from the ridge onto the Shira plateau and to our Shira 1 campsite at 3504 meters.  Day 3 was an easy one that saw us gain another 400 meters in altitude as we walked across the gently sloping trail to Shira 2. The red GPS track on the satellite image shows the small section of the Kilimanjaro mountainside that we were traversing.

Shira 1 to Shira 2 – in context

The track illustrates nicely that a successful Kilimanjaro trek results from a string of easy-to-achieve smaller goals.  In our case, we had six days of moderate walking and acclimatizing to prepare for the final ascent to the rim of Kibo! By Day 6 at noon, we would be at Barafu, the spot indicated on the bottom and right of center.

Our 8-kilometre walk this day was very close to what I walk my Icelandic sheepdog Viggo some days!

I was up around 6:50, having had a good night’s sleep.  The temperature had dipped somewhat during the night,  but I was warm inside my bag. In fact, my biggest concern was the condensation on the inner tent walls.  The next evening I unzipped the top of the front door and the rear window to allow some airflow.

I waited just long enough to get my camera that by 7:14, when I snapped the photo below, it was too late! Instead of that nice red glow created by the sun behind Kilimanjaro, I got the full blast of white light.  On the plus side, the top was visible!

We left camp around 7:45.  A few minutes later, I looked back and got the shot below of the park ranger’s hut and the tents of a few trekking parties not yet decamped.

Less than an hour into our walk, we reached a junction marked by a large boulder and another stone with signboards. To the right, the trail went to  Cathedral Point (3862 m).  The main trail – the one most groups walk –  goes straight ahead to Shira 2.

Along the way, we passed an eye-catching giant groundsel on the side of a creek, somewhat sheltered by the boulders. However, as we gained altitude,  the landscape became more desolate. The moorland was transitioning into the alpine desert terrain we’d be walking in for the rest of the trek.

We got to Shira 2 just before noon.   As was the case on Days 1 and 2, there were very few other trekking groups at Shira 2.  The panorama below captures that desert alpine look. It also shows the last campsite we would share with only a few other groups. The following day the Machame route trail would merge with ours, and the volume of trekker and porter traffic would increase significantly.

Four tents for the five of us –  and our little toilet tent to the left.  Not just convenient but also kept very clean and odour-free! And to be fair, the Park facility pictured below, one of the new palatial models, was also well-taken-care-of.

I also had a second Nalgene bottle which served as my pee bottle; it meant there would be no need to crawl out of the tent at 3:00 a.m.

Most days, the cloud cover hid the sun by mid-afternoon, as the remaining images will show.

Zoom in on the image of the Park toilet facility to see the notice – Tourists Only – pinned on the top of the center panel.

Every day on Kilimanjaro ends with a signing-in at the ranger’s hut. Its purpose is to make sure that everyone is accounted for. Other than filling ledger books with illegible signatures and particulars that no one will ever look at, it likely serves no useful purpose.

The Shira 2 site has an automated weather monitoring station enclosed in two fenced-in areas. It is apparently one of three maintained on the slopes of Kilimanjaro. However, I did not see any other stations, not even on the summit plateau, where the rapid disappearance of the glaciers is a real cause for concern.

Given our noon arrival at Shira 2, we had lunch shortly afterwards in the dining tent and then some time to ourselves before we set off on a mid-afternoon hike for acclimatization purposes.

We walked up the same path we would take the following day on our way to Lava Tower.  According to my GPS tracker, we got as high as 4005 meters, about 200 higher than our campsite.  We sat on the lava rocks and took in the scene below us for a while. Shira 2 is in the foreground in the image below; the jagged southern rim of the old Shira volcano is in the background.

On our return to camp, we had some nap time followed by tea time at 4:00. Then it was more relaxation time until supper at 6:00.  Meanwhile, it was getting dark and colder.

This would be the night that George and Fella, the two Popote crew members who took care of us at mealtime, filled our Nalgene bottles with hot water to take inside our sleeping bags! A couple of us had shivered through the night at Shira 1. The water bottles would prove to be very popular!

With the recording of the oximeter results from each trekker,  it was time to crawl into our tents – Day 3 was in the books!

Next Post: Day 4 – From Shira 2 to Barranco Camp

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Kilimanjaro Via The Lemosho Route: Day 2 – Mti Mkubwa to Shira 1

Previous Post: Day 1 – From Lemosho Glades To Mti Mkubwa Camp

Elevation Gain: 2785 m to 3504 m/9,137 ft to 11,496 ft
Distance: Just under 8 km/ 5 miles
Hiking Time: about 5 hours
Habitat: Rainforest/Heath/Moorland

My Polar 430 HR monitor/GPS tracker recorded the following data on Day 2’s walk from Big Tree (Mti Mkubwa) Camp to Shira 1.

Day 2 - Lemosho Route - Mti Mkubwa to Shira 1

Day 1’s walk had started at 3 in the afternoon due to the time needed to get to the trailhead at Lemosho Glades. Day 2 would be our first full day of walking. Blue skies as we set off around 8 a.m. for the Shira plateau and our next camp – Shira 1.    In reality, none of our days involved a lot of distance except for summit day, when we walked about 15 km.

Day 2 – Lemosho Route – Mti Mkubwa to Shira 1

By 10:30, we had gained enough altitude to have left the rainforest behind.  The forest was giving way to heather, and we were in the ecological zone called the moorland. I turned back to the west, and on the horizon, I saw my old friend Mount Meru, eighty kilometers from where we were standing.  The week before, I had stood on its summit. Now we were heading to Kibo and Uhuru Peak, Africa’s highest point.

Mount Meru – Tanzania’s second-highest mountain at 4566 meters.

Knowing that the day’s route had 700 meters of altitude gain, we were not surprised by the sustained walk up to the top of the ridge pictured below. While we moved slowly along the trail – always pole pole! –  our porters travelled at a higher speed, even with the 30 kilograms on their backs or on top of their heads.  Often they would be the visible clue about where the trail was and where it was going!

Lemosho Route Day 2 – porters making their way to Shira Ridge

By noon we were up on the Shira plateau.  One of the guides told us that the Kilimanjaro massif is made up of the remnants of three different volcanoes. In order of height, they are:

  1. Shira,
  2. Mawenzi
  3. Kibo.

While the first two are extinct, Kibo is categorized as dormant.  The Shira plateau is actually the crater of the volcano that Shira once was. Of the three volcanoes, Kibo is the highest on Kilimanjaro.  The goal of our trek was to climb up to Kibo’s rim at Stella Point and walk along the rim to Uhuru Peak.

See here for the image source and an excellent intro to the geology of Mount Kilimanjaro.

As we came to the top of the ridge and looked over the Shira plateau, we got our first view of Kibo.  Well, more of a tease than a clear look.  Cloud cover prevented a full view;  we’d have to wait until the next morning before the day’s clouds rolled in for Kilimanjaro’s Kibo summit to be completely visible.

But still – there it was, the first view of the objective of our “expedition”!

Lemosho Route Day 2 – our first view of Kibo

Everyone pulled out their cameras or smartphones and took the requisite photo to capture the moment and the view.  Our Shira 1 campsite is in the middle background of the image above. We’d make a gentle descent down to the plateau and our camp.

Our entire camp was already up when we got there –

the cook tent,
the dining tents,
our sleeping tents, each with the right duffel bag sitting by the door, and
our toilet tent.

Nearby the camp is a stream that provides water for the cooking crew.

Lemosho route – Shira 1 Camp signpost

Note: The altitude figures in my post do not always agree with the ones on the Kilimanjaro National Park signposts!

I have taken all my altitude figures from the fifth edition of Henry Stedman’s Kilimanjaro: The Trekking Guide to Africa’s Highest Mountain.

It is the most useful and reliable source of information on the mountain, the various trekking routes to the top of Kibo, and all the usual background material needed to organize the trip – trekking agencies, accommodation in Arusha and Moshi, and much more.

Our first camp was in a forest clearing and quite sheltered. The Shira 1 camp sits on volcanic rubble with very little vegetation. In the image below, you can see the green cook tent in the foreground, the dining tent in the background and our tents.  While four of us had tents to ourselves, the one couple on the trip got to share. Their conclusion: two people and two duffel bags in one tent make for a very crowded space. Standing in the middle of the sleeping tents is our beige toilet tent.

I’ve already mentioned that Popote Africa Adventure, the Moshi agency that organized and ran our trek, provided us with a toilet tent at no extra cost. [it is usually $125.-$150.extra.] Yet another way agencies will sometimes increase the cost of the trek is by charging extra if you want to have your own tent or hotel room at the start and end of the trek. Ultimate Kilimanjaro, for example, has a supplemental charge of $259. for this.  Popote did not put two solo trekkers in the same tent; instead, it provided a tent for each without charge.

Shira 1 Camp at 3500 m.

some of the many original outhouses at Shira 1 camp – the foundations of a palatial facility like at Mti Mkubwa waits to be built on!

In the image below the stream which provides Shira 1 Camp with water is visible; so too is a short section of the badly eroded rim of the ancient Shira volcano in whose crater we were tenting.

Here is a satellite view that illustrates more clearly the remnants of the caldera rim on the edge of the Shira Plateau where we were camping.

Also visible are the following:

  • the stream (one of the tributaries of the Ngare Nairobi River) flowing past the eastern edge of Shira 1 Camp
  • the 4WD Emergency Vehicle Road from the Londorossi Gate
  • our straight-line route the next day to Shira 2 Camp

For a “live” Google Earth view that you can play with, click here!

[Note: the Google Earth app has mislabeled the Shira 1 Camp as the Moir Camp. The Moir Hut is higher at 4610 m and is located to the NE of Shira 2 Camp. See here for a trip report which makes clear the difference.

Day Two was done, and everyone was feeling fine.  We were walking slowly, taking lots of water breaks, and eating well – in short, doing all the things you should be doing to make a successful walk to the top of Kilimanjaro.  We were also taking our Diamox tablets – splitting each day’s tablet in two and taking 125 mg. in the morning and the other 125 in the evening.

A solid night’s sleep is the other ingredient. We went to our tents at 8:15! It was definitely cooler than it had been at the Mti Mkubwa Camp.  I put on my base layer of expedition fleece (both top and bottom) and my wool hat and zipped my sleeping bag (rated to -10ºC) shut.

Next Post: Day 3 – From Shira 1 To Shira 2

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Kilimanjaro Via The Lemosho Route: Day 1 – Lemosho Glades To Mti Mkubwa

Table of Contents:

Previous Post: A Walk To the Top of Meru -Tanzania’s Second Highest Mountain

I did the Mount Meru walk as an acclimatization exercise to prepare for Kilimanjaro.

Mount Meru: A Walk To the Top of Tanzania’s Second Highest Mountain

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Group Size – Everything From 1 to 20

I returned from my Meru trek looking forward to a day’s rest before we set off on the main event of my Tanzania visit, an eight-day trek via the Lemosho route to the top of Kibo on Mount Kilimanjaro.

Waiting in the Popote Africa Adventures office while the staff laminated my Meru certificate (!), I noticed that I was the only client scheduled for the Wednesday departure. On the calendar board, another Lemosho trip was listed for the very next day – and it had four trekkers. A quick decision on my part and my one-person trek was no more.  I had them add my name to the Thursday departure.

It would certainly simplify Popote’s logistics, beginning with the three-hour ride from Moshi to the trailhead on the west side of Kilimanjaro.  Doing it once with five made more sense.

While I would meet a few trekking groups made up of just one trekker with his/her support staff of four or five, being in a small group

  • provides you with other voices and other stories to listen to
  • and with extra motivation on those occasions when you’re flagging a bit.

Our group of five would be a perfect number – three Canadians and two Americans ranging in age from 25 to 67. Seven days later on leaving Barafu Camp at noon, I  watched as a large group of twenty trekkers entered the camp.  20 is definitely about 12 too many!

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On Our Way To Londorossi Gate

the Popote bus at Moshi’s Parkview Inn

We left the Parkview Inn at around 9:00 for the ride to Londorossi Gate.  Already on the bus were two of our guides, Dixon and Majura, as well as most of the seventeen porters. The others we would pick up as we drove along the highway toward Arusha.

After we made the right-hand turn at Boma Ya Ng’ombe and headed north, we stopped for a half-hour at Sanya Juu while the crew had breakfast.

the Crown Pub and Lodge in Sanya Juu on the way to Londorossi

Barbecued meat is a Tanzanian staple – as is ugali, a cornmeal dough cooked to a consistency of thick mashed potatoes.  This would be one of those times when I – the only vegetarian in the crew – would watch as the others munched away with gusto from a shared plate of meat and ugali, salt,  and dipping sauces!

the Crown Pub grill – Sanya Juu Tanzania


I had to do a double-take when I saw the guy in the Raptors jersey in front of the Crown Pub.  I took the shot below but the one I really wanted was of the back of his jersey with the number 1 and the name McGrady on it.  McGrady left the team in 2000 so we are talking retro here!

Sanya Juu is a farm supply town in the middle of an agricultural area that stretches to the north and up to the slopes of Kilimanjaro.  In years to come, the pressure on conservation areas and national parks like Serengeti will undoubtedly lead to shrinking wildlife areas and a smaller Kilimanjaro National Park. See the satellite image below for the current demarcation line!  Already the likelihood of seeing any of the Big 5 animals in the park’s forest section or on the Shira plateau just above is close to zero.

truck cab in Sanya Juu on the way to Londorossi

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Londorossi Gate – Registration & Weighing

By 12:30 our three-hour drive up the west side of Kilimanjaro Park brought us to Londorossi Gate, where we completed entry formalities.  The Gate is the access point to a gravel road which goes into the Park itself and is used as an emergency route.  Some agencies also make use of it to drive their clients up to Shira 1 Camp.  This is not a good idea since it deprives trekkers of the time their bodies need to acclimatize more gradually to the increasing altitude.

  • Moshi is at 800 m/2625 ft. ;
  • Londorossi Gate is 2377 m/7800 ft.;
  • Shira 1 is at 3504 m/11496 ft.

Our first camp would be at Mti Mkubwa (Swahili for Big Tree). It is at 2785 m/9137 ft. a.s.l.., a more manageable elevation to deal with on Day 1.

We drove past the side road to Lemosho Glades to go up to Londorossi Gate. Then we drove back down the where we had come from and headed for Lemosho Glades.

 Since very few trekking groups make use of the Londorossi Gate entry, I did wonder what the point of us driving up to Londorossi Gate only to have to return to the junction where the road to Lemosho Glades turns off.  I guess the Lemosho Route is still new enough that the park officials have not gotten around to providing an entry point with facilities at the Lemosho trailhead.  However, with the money that the Park and Government are taking in from each Kilimanjaro trekker – about $1000. – it cannot be for lack of funds!  When they do get around to it, a Lemosho Gate with full weigh-in and sign-in facilities will eliminate about an hour of wasted time.

One reason that a stop at Londorossi is necessary is to have all the gear and supplies weighed. I had to laugh when I saw the line-up of agency staff and the equipment available for their weigh-in.

While the Popote crew had everything weighed, we had lunch in a roofed lunch area.  Thirty meters away some local men were standing by the gate and hoping to get last-minute jobs as porters for those agencies which had underestimated the amount of stuff they had and needed an extra porter or two.

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Back To Lemosho Glades & The Trek Start

It was 2:30 by the time we got to Lemosho Glades and 3:00 when we started the day’s short walk. Before we left Lemosho Glades, it was photo time.   Here is a shot of our three guides – Dixon, Yusuph, and Majura. Together they have done the walk up to Uhuru Peak hundreds of times – we were definitely in good hands! [The guide-to-client ratio on Kilimanjaro is 1:2.]

our three Popote guides – Dixon, Yusuph, and Majura (MJ)

And here are the five muzungu they were shepherding! (The Swahili term apparently means  “a dazed person who walks around in a circle”, a description which may well apply to some tourists!

5 trekkers with 3 guides and 17 support staff!

Meanwhile, the rest of the staff was getting all the gear ready to be carried.  In all, there were 17 porters on our team. Over the next six days, they carried all the accommodation, the gear, the food, our duffel bags, and their personal gear from Lemosho Gate at 2100 meters to Barafu Camp at 4600 and then back down to the exit gate.

The going wage for a porter on Kilimanjaro is $10. US a day. [Last April I did a trek along the Nepal-Tibet border, also as one of a group of five trekkers.  There too we had a local crew of 21 made up of a head guide, a Sherpa, a cook, and 15 porters.  The wages of the different crew members were similar to those working on Kili.]

the Popote crew at the Lemosho Glades trailhead

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The Walk To Big Tree Camp (Mti Mkubwa)

Mti is Swahili for “tree” and mkubwa means “big”.

Here are the stats and route track generated by my Polar M430 GPS/HR monitor/watch.

Over the next two-and-a-half hours we’d gain four hundred meters in altitude (2785 m – 2389 m). From my heart rate data, you can see that it is a pleasant walk in the park – well, lush forest with an easy trail to follow at an average speed of 2.1 km/hr.!  Not for the last time, we would hear the Swahili phrase pole pole – slowly, slowly!

Along the way, we would also see some locals peering down from their tree perches at us as we walked by.

an Eastern Black and White Colobus monkey in the montane forest of Kilimanjaro’s west side

a Blue Monkey watches as we walk up to Big Tree Camp on Day 1 of our Lemosho Route trek

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Our Mti Mkubwa Camp Set-Up

By 5:30 we were at Mti Mkubwa Camp.  Mti is Swahili for “tree” and mkubwa means “big”.  The camp area has room for dozens of groups of trekkers.  On our arrival we found perhaps a dozen other tents up; it really was not very busy.

Mti Mkubwa signpost – Lemosho Route

the Popote camp set up at Mti Mkubwa

Waiting in the dining tent for us after we had opened up our duffels and unfurled our sleeping bags and mats were the trays of popcorn you see in the image below!

Yusuph giving us the rundown on tea time and other camp rituals

lots of empty space available for other trekking groups at Mti Mkubwa

Some trekkers worry about the toilet facilities available on the trek.  During the day there really aren’t any other than the privacy provided by a well-placed rock or boulder. At campsites at the start of the day and at the end, there are facilities provided by the park. Some are for use by the local staff – as are the ones which look like the first one below.

an original outhouse at Big Tree camp – still used by local crews

There is a more palatial facility that looks like the one below that sometimes has a notice on it saying – Tourists Only.  A number of the Camps on the Lemosho Route had one of these newer outhouses.  We were lucky to have had our own little toilet tent which Popote included without charge.

one of the new toilet facilities on the slopes of Kilimanjaro – for tourists only!

Meanwhile,   our camp attracted a local who has obviously become habituated to the presence and the promise of humans in his neck of the woods.

One not-so-secret to a successful Kilimanjaro climb is to take your time.  The other is to get lots of sleep so your body can recharge.  (Other tips include enough hydration and the use of Diamox as prophylaxis.)

By 6:30 or 7:00 p.m., it is already dark and there is not really a lot to do.  Of course, you’ll hang out in the dining tent with your fellow trekkers and sip tea and talk about the events of the day and all sorts of other things but soon everyone will have slipped away.

On Day 1, it was 8:30 when the last two of us left the dining tent; that would stand as the latest time ever!  Off to bed – “To sleep, perchance to dream” of the next day’s walk!

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Next Post: Day 2 – Mti Mkubwa To Shira 1

Kilimanjaro Via The Lemosho Route: Day 2 – Mti Mkubwa to Shira 1

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Moshi & Arusha: Tanzania’s Gateway Towns to Kilimanjaro And The Northern Safari Circuit

Table of Contents:

Moshi

Arusha

Previous Post: Planning To Climb Kilimanjaro in Tanzania

Heading To Tanzania’s Kilimanjaro Region

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Moshi & Arusha as the Kilimanjaro and Safari Gateways 

If a safari or a climb of Kilimanjaro or Meru in northern Tanzania is in your plans, then you will be spending some time in Arusha and/or Moshi, the two gateway towns which serve as the headquarters of the many local agencies that will organize your adventure and help you make it a reality.

Screenshot

Perhaps, like me, you will fly directly into the region from Europe, landing at Kilimanjaro International Airport located between the two cities. Others will approach overland from Nairobi, Kenya or from Dar es Salaam.

What you will find are two functioning urban centers that must be among the most prosperous in Tanzania, thanks to the massive infusion of tourist dollars and the jobs they create.

The streets are free of trash and litter, and many of them are paved; the sewage systems work, there is all-day electricity, and drivers in vehicles stop at pedestrian crossings.  I did not find the pandemonium and pollution and the smell of raw sewage in the air that characterize the Indian and Nepalese towns I have walked through recently.

So, what is there to do in Arusha and Moshi?  Should you set aside a few days to explore these urban centers before, in between, or after your Tanzanian adventures? The short answer – not really.  While the towns work, they really do not offer the visitor much in the way of things to see or do.  What follows is my attempt to give you some idea of the look and feel of the towns.

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Moshi:

Map and Basic Info

Moshi has a population of 200,000 and is located to the south of Kilimanjaro. It is the town more closely connected to trekking/climbing agencies, and if a climb to the top of Kilimanjaro is your focus, chances are your agency will use Moshi as the starting point with a night in a Moshi hotel before the trek and a night on your return from the mountain.

 

That is what my Kilimanjaro package included. I did add an additional day before our trek started and an extra one after our descent to give my body some extra recuperation time. The hotel was the Parkview Inn – located above Uhuru Park on the map above.  It would be considered a downtown Moshi location. Not far from the Parkview is another three-star hotel, the Bristol Cottages.  [Click on the hotel names to access their TripAdvisor reviews. Both score in the 4 out of 5 range.]

Both are very close to a Moshi landmark, the Clock Tower pictured below.

The satellite image below has

  • the Parkview Inn on the left-hand side,
  • The Bristol Cottages just down a block on Aga Khan Road,
  • The Clock Tower at the top of Mawenzi Road,
  • as well as the town’s major bus station.

Moshi, Tanzania – Clock Tower and south to the bus station area

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The Parkview Inn:

Uhuru Park sits on the south side of Aga Khan Road, and it gives the hotel its name. In the photo below, you can see the Inn from a view inside the park itself.  I would find that very few of the rooms actually have a view of the park, being oriented to the interior courtyard and swimming pool.

The gated property has a twenty-four-hour sentry in charge of opening the gate for vehicles and people on foot. No worries about safety or security here!

The gated entrance of Moshi’s Parkview Inn on Aga Khan Road

I’d see some mini-buses load up with clients and gear in front of the Reception area of the hotel during the time I was there. The Inn is clearly a popular choice for local trekking and safari agencies.  At about $70 a night for a room, it represents good value. It is in the same class as the nearby Bristol Cottages, another decent choice for a couple of nights in Moshi.

[There are certainly cheaper, as well as more expensive,  options available.  TripAdvisor and the Lonely Planet guidebook will provide other options.]

As a place to get ready for your Kili climb, it even gives you a view of your objective as you sit in the shallow end of the pool and face north to the volcano!

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The Bristol Cottages

Just down Aga Khan Road is the Bristol Cottages, featuring four actual cottages along one side of the property, as well as a multi-storeyed L-shaped building enclosing two other sides.  Even though it is fairly close to the bus station area and to the mosque with its loudspeaker regularly announcing calls to prayer, the grounds exude a stillness and tranquillity which drew me to the restaurant on more than one occasion.  Also, the internet worked better than at the Parkview Inn.  Such are the priorities of modern-day travellers!

Bristol Cottages – the street entrance

Moshi’s Bristol Cottages – a view from just inside the main entrance from the street

Bristol Cottages lounge/dining area

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The Moshi Dalla Dalla/Bus Station

Near the two downtown hotels is the bus station area. It is actually made up of two halves – the north parking lot is for the dalla dallas, the mini-bus share taxis which get their name for the cheapness of the ride, dalla being a corruption of “dollar”.

On the other side of the shopping mall, which separates the two parking areas, is the larger bus station pictured below. Unlike the dalla dallas, these buses have regular departure times. They also represent a safer ride than the often overcrowded minibuses.

Across from the bus station area is one of the town’s mosques.  Moshi is apparently 80% Christian, though there I did see a Hindu temple just down the street from the mosque, as well as a Sikh Gurdwara.

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The Moshi Train Station

Step outside your gated hotel and head for the street, and you will be approached by touts keen on guiding you to a certain shop or selling you some item they have in their bag – a postcard, a painting, or handiwork of some sort that they claim to have personally made. It can get a bit annoying just walking around and dealing with a succession of these local business entrepreneurs.

My solution after my first morning was to hire one of them as a guide around town. His name was Michael, a well-spoken 30-year-old who was knowledgeable about the town.  He was out of work and scrambling to make money for his wife and four-year-old. [I believed his story, though a skeptic would tell me it was just a part of the sales pitch.]  We spent two hours one morning and another two the next, walking around Moshi, checking out Michael’s Moshi highlights!

approaching Moshi’s train station on Station Road

One place he took me to was the shopping center between the two bus parking lots. I would never have gone in there by myself and framed the shots that you can see above. I also would not have found my way to the old train station. Built by the Germans around the year 1900, it has been closed since the early 1990s when rail service ended.

waiting for the train to arrive at Moshi train station

Now the Tanzanian government apparently wants to revive the rail line from Tanga on the coast all the way to Arusha.  Maybe the Chinese will provide the necessary funds!

Moshi sign in front of Mosh train Station

the narrow gauge tracks at Moshi Train Station

Moshi Train Station – the entrance/exit passageway

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The Commercial District

A few blocks south on Mawenzi Road is the commercial district with shops, restaurants, and some budget hotels.  The Indo-Italiano Restaurant gets good reviews and is clearly geared to the Mzungu tourist crowd. Pizza and coffee were what I ordered on an afternoon visit.

the outside of the Indo-Italiano Restaurant

On the other side of Mawenzi Road is the town’s market district. On our second morning, Michael took me and one of the other members of my Kilimanjaro trekking group through the covered market area and the nearby streets. We also stopped for a coffee at the Union Café, one of the many coffeehouse choices in Moshi.

the covered porch of the Union Cafe in Moshi

The main counter of the Union Cafe in Moshi

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Shantytown:

We never did get to the really posh Moshi district, with the puzzling name “Shantytown”. It is located in the NW corner of town as shown on the map at the start of this post. Michael did tell us that if he were to wander into the district by himself, he would be stopped and hassled by the security force and told to get out. Shantytown has a few of the more upscale hotels and restaurants, as well as the safari/trekking agencies, which have set up their offices there.

Shantytown in Moshi – to the northwest of the Parkview Inn and the commercial district

All in all, Moshi is a perfectly fine town for a tourist using it as the base for a climb of Kilimanjaro. It has decent hotels and restaurants and money exchange bureaus, all the things that a traveller would expect.  WiFi at the Parkview Inn was intermittent; at some restaurants, it was much faster. As already mentioned, a negative would be the touts who make a simple stroll around town an impossibility.

Moshi As Kilimanjaro Base Camp

Moshi serves as the starting point of many expeditions to Kilimanjaro.  In my case, it began with a ride to Lemosho Glades, the starting point of one of the longer walks up the slopes of the volcano we know as Kilimanjaro.  When it comes to a successful summit of Kili, longer is better since it gives your body an extra day or two or adjust to the thinning air as you ascend higher and higher.

The following post details Day One of the Lemosho route to Uhuru Peak and has links to Days 2 through 8.

Kilimanjaro Via The Lemosho Route: Day 1 – Lemosho Glades To Mti Mkubwa

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Arusha

Gateway to the Northern Safari Circuit

If Moshi is the start/endpoint for Kilimanjaro climbs, then Arusha is definitely the safari center of northern Tanzania.

  • With a population of  420,000, it is twice the size of Moshi.
  • Its location, some 80 kilometres to the west of Moshi, puts it two hours closer to the main parks which make up the safari circuit in this part of the country.

To no surprise, its tour agencies also handle Kilimanjaro climbs, so your Kilimanjaro package may well include a couple of days at an Arusha-area hotel.  Like Moshi, Arusha also has its own nearby mountain, Mount Meru, which is the centrepiece of Arusha National Park.

I only spent two nights in Arusha, just enough time to arrange a last-minute two-day safari to a couple of the nearby parks and conservation areas. While there is a bit more to do in Arusha than in Moshi, my safari choice was the right one! What follows are a few photos that will give you an idea of the city and its overall look.

My three-star hotel, the Arusha Crown, faced the city’s stadium. On the satellite image above, it is located on the top left. It is a few streets north of the city’s main street, Sokoine Road, and I walked through the market area just south of the hotel a few times to get to it. Sokoine runs across from left to right on the bottom third of the satellite image above. At the east end, it (like Moshi)  has its own clock tower.  Are they a legacy of colonialism and the Euro attempt to get locals to shape their days by the dictates of the clock?

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A Walk Along Sokoine Road

major construction on Sokoine Road in Arusha

Ksij Arusha Shia Mosque on Sokoine Road

a view of the Naura River as it approaches Sokoine Road

a stretch of Sokoine Road west of the clock tower

I was particularly interested in the Naaz Hotel thanks to my optometrist back in Toronto. He had grown up in Arusha and remembered the owner of the establishment. In fact, during my brief stay in Arusha, I dropped in twice to speak with him and relay greetings from Toronto, but he seems to be a very busy guy!

The Arusha Naaz Hotel on Sokoine Road

Just east of the Naaz Hotel is the clock tower. That is as far east as I got in my rambles around town.  From there, I walked up Boma Road to the Boma, a fort built by the Germans over 100 years ago, but now a museum. Given the so-so reviews,  I gave the museum a pass and headed to the Via Via Restaurant around the back, but it was a Sunday, and the place was closed.  Walking back down Boma Road, I headed past the five-star Palace Hotel to Africafé for a vegetarian bite to eat.

Arusha clock tower – looking down Sokoine Road

The Arusha Clock Tower from Boma Road looking south

The Natural History Museum at the top of Boma Road

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Trying To Decipher Local Graffiti

I can’t say I got much of a feel for the politics of Tanzania in either Moshi or Arusha. People expressed general approval for their President’s anti-corruption campaign. They seemed less concerned about the shutting down of dissenting voices in the press and in their national legislature.  I did take a photo of this bit of graffiti below, but I have no idea what it is saying.  Marufuku is the president’s name. Kufanya means “do” and biashara means “business”.  Let me know in the comment section below if you can figure out the message!

Update: Well, I sure misinterpreted that!  Thanks to Mohamed from Moshi, who took the time to send the following explanation:

The name of the President, who has since passed away, was Magafuli. Marufuku means to ban. If you enlarge the picture the message continues “Marufuku Kufanya biashara kwaniya Hili….” loosely translated it means  “street vendors should be banned from setting up a business on this hill or vicinity or area”

Some graffiti on a wall on Makongoro Road – an anti-Magufuli statement?

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Host Of East African Community Meetings

Arusha serves as the host city for meetings of the East African Community. The weekend I was there coincided with one such meeting. The only evidence I saw was a VIP vehicle being escorted by a few police cars through heavy traffic.

The Arusha Monument on Makongoro Road

Arusha is also the city associated with Julius Nyerere’s 1967 Arusha Declaration, Tanzania’s embrace of socialism with an African face.  A key concept was that of ‘Ujamaa’ or brotherhood.  While 95% of Tanzania’s population belongs to the Bantu language family, it is still divided into 100+ different tribal groups. It makes governing a complicated proposition for countries like Tanzania or Uganda, where “one person/one vote” often takes second place to “my tribe/my clan”.

Arusha Monument – a close-up of one of the four pedestals

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Nearby Mt. Meru & Arusha National Park

Behind the Arusha Monument sits Mount Meru, the second-highest mountain in Tanzania next to Kilimanjaro.  A week before, I had made the two-and-a-half-day trek up to the top of Meru as preparation for my Kilimanjaro climb. It turns out that Meru is actually a more technical climb than Kilimanjaro, only made easier by the fact that it is 1300 meters lower than Kili. [Click on the following title for more on Meru: Mount Meru: A Walk To the Top of Tanzania’s Second Highest Mountain]

Mount Meru: A Walk To the Top of Tanzania’s Second Highest Mountain

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Arusha As Safari Central

As I noted at the start of this post, Arusha is a perfectly fine place to spend a couple of days – one before and one after your safari or trek.  Just don’t plan on spending more time there when you could be visiting one of the nearby National parks or conservation areas.

Faced with two days in Arusha with nothing planned until my flight back home, I arranged a two-day safari with one of the agencies on Sokoine Road.  The two following posts will make clear why I made the right choice! Just click on the titles below to access the reports.

On Safari In Tanzania: An Afternoon In Tarangire National Park

On Safari In Tanzania: An Afternoon In Tarangire National Park

On Safari In Tanzania: A Morning In Ngorongoro Crater

Tarangire to Ngorogoro Crater

On Safari In Tanzania: A Morning In Ngorongoro Crater

Posted in Africa, Easy Travelling | 3 Comments